Get the High End Designer Look with Vogue Sewing Patterns

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So a new Vogue Collection is out and I thought we should take a look at what designs are inspired on the new sewing pattern Spring collection and also tell you about my favorites.

V1933 - Misses’ Shirt Dress. I will be honest I saw this and I was like…. hmmm what is going on in here with the opening on the sides on this yellow dress/ tunic / shirt. The sleeves have a concealed button closure along the under seam and button cuffs. Looks interesting. I don’t know if I love the maxi length version but I think the mini version is adorable.

This dress Maxi Shirt Dress pattern is actually inspired by Valentino. It is now sold out according to Net-A-Porter. If you bought it from the designer itself… you would have gotten it on sale for the whopping amount of $5,740

V1936 - Another really interesting design. I think it is a lot of fun. I wished I had the body to wear this because this is right up my Puerto Rican alley. V1936 is a blazer dress with waist cut outs. Business in the front and party on the sides and the back! Good for cocktails after work. I’m here for it.

Jacquemus has a beautiful cutout linen-blend mini dress. It retails for $1,195 on Net-a-Porter

V1945 - Knit Top and Leggings in Two lengths. I’m going to say those are some interesting leggings, and I will follow it up with…. depending on the fabric you choose it can go well on you or real bad. However, these leggings are inspired by Mugler from the very famous designer Thierry Mugler. His designs were sexy, and they were out there. He was a true genius and for sure he was not designing for the usual wall flower.

It is nice that they gave us that design as a pattern, those curves are not going to be fun to sew but I think if you have the right fabric you could make yourself some fun leggings.

His original design is the Sheer Spiral Stirrup Leggings has sheer panels and are designed as stirrup leggings. They retail for $700.

V1942 - It is a fitted raised waist, waist facings, side front and back seams with stitched hems. It has grommets or aka eyelets with lacing. Fun skirt and I will add, I will most likely get this pattern. Raised waist skirt…. yes totally love this.

This pattern is inspired by Dolce and Gabbanna Spring 2022 Ready to Wear fashion show. I have not been able to find the skirt for sale to check on retail pricing. It’s always fun to do so. But it you get two different looks in the pattern. The seams on the D&G skirt and are on the center front and the side seams… and it has a lot more grommets than the pattern does.

V1944 - Misses Tops and Skirt. Let’s focus on the Skirt. Which is a bias cut skirt fitted thru the hips and have waist ties. Invisible side zipper closure. I don’t quite know if this caught my attention but it’s a fun design.

It could be inspired by Third Form’s Rip Tide Wrap Around Midi Skirt. This however is made from knit fabric. It has a little bit of an edgy but simple design.

V1940 - A empire waist top with a V-neckline top with ruffles and a bow at the center front. I looked at this and for some reason it reminded me of Carolina Herrera. I get a ton of her ads on Instagram, and sure enough I just had to look back…. way back to find this striped dress from their Resort Cruise 2022 Collection. The dress is now sold out on all websites.

V1943 - Off shoulder double breasted Misses Jacket and Pants. Its beautiful!

Of course there is an inspiration for this suit. It’s by Safiyaa. It is still available on Net-a-Porter. It’s on sale. The blazer retails for $702 and the pants are $623.

V1934 - Great dress, I think both views are beautiful. It took me a long time to find this one and there are some changes from the inspiration.

But take a look at Zimmerman’s Vitali Dress. It’s very similar with the neckline. The shoulder details are different but I actually think I love Zimmerman’s version a little more without the gathers. Mostly because I have wider shoulders so trying to lessen the amount of gathers in this area for me. But all in all a great pattern. The Zimmerman dress retails for $763 so I will be picking up this pattern.

Turning an unpopular opinion into positive feedback

A few weeks ago The Love to Sew Podcast posted a question about the unpopular takes about sewing. This is not going to be one of those and remember I moderate comments on my YouTube so don’t go off on a hot take because it’s not going to be one of those. But it got a little too hot in the post so the ladies from Love to Sew achieved the post and that was that. But then Alexandria Arnold who happens to be a journalist in her full time job posted her “What your Unpopular Sewing Opinions?” post and I have linked and although I think some of them are out right mean and someone of the other unpopular opinions, I’m afraid are true. I appreciate that Alexandria has kept this post up.

What am I talking about… here are some of them.

A lot of these new, so-called indie patterns are aimed at total beginners, everything is so boxy, shapeless, and not flattering for any type of body. If it is a women's pattern, please make an effort and draft something that distantly resembles a woman's silhouette. Fed up with baggy crap.

1)The world does not need another boxy top, baggy elastic waistband pants or another sack dress pattern.
2) patterns you need to buy an extension pack for, like the lining for a jacket… ain’t nobody wants to wear a unlined coat in winter 🥶
3) when the launch pictures are all made out of cutesy jersey prints… I’m pushing 40 and don’t want to dress like a 12 year old.
4) why are all the patterns aimed at beginners?
5) can someone please release a range of chic work wear patterns? A capsule for summer months and winter months? I spend 80% of my life in the office and I can’t show up in party 👯 dresses.
6) there are more party 👯 dress patterns out there than parties 🎊 that I have attended in the last 10 years.

Whatever size you are, nobody owes you anything.

I don't care for pattern subscriptions and if you are a pattern designer hear this... If you keep putting out badly designed patterns every month that are missing pattern pieces, or things are mislabeled its gonna hurt your core customers in the end.

and that last one…. is mine. That is my unpopular sewing opinion. We started a new month and you get to see some of the new releases from these subscriptions and I do understand that these patterns will be simpler in terms of design because it is at a lower price point, the pattern designer is not spending as much time with it double checking it, doing pattern testing. So I get that, but not everyone is as “forgiving” and in the end your core customers, the ones that buy your pattern all the time will start second guessing themselves if they should buy the pattern at your premium price point if you are putting out subpar patterns.

Let’s also be realistic, I don’t care what politicians or the government says that everything is ok. Inflation is taking a huge big bite out of discretionary spending, things are not good. Big tech laid off a bunch of people, Fabric.com closed! Small business is struggling, fabric stores are struggling… when have you all seen so many sales from a fabric store saying 50% off everything in the store, 20% off this entire weekend from everything or so many pattern makers having sales? If you are in the US you know, eggs are at a premium. Let’s face it money is tight! For everyone! So that means we are all a little extra picky on what we spend our “play money”.

Don’t believe me, take a look at blog post “Next Steps for BHL” from Alisalex from By Hand London and how difficult it has been but also how perhaps doing a second size range was very expensive and somewhat unprofitable for her. I commend her for being honest and seeing what is not working for her and her business on top of all the personal setbacks that she has had.

Do I have the answer to all the hot takes…. no. Would I love to give feedback to some of these pattern companies…. yes. However, I don’t know all the ins and outs their business nor do I know what hurdles they have ie. Printing patterns and the cost related to that so I’m not in a position to give feedback when I don’t know all the parts and pieces of a business. BUT for now I’m going to ask you to use the comments below and tell the pattern companies what do you want to see their next pattern to be. We complained enough about not having the finished garment measurements in the back of the pattern envelopes so eventually someone listened to the feedback, took the bull by the horns and changed that!

SO….What garment would you love to see designed and released by the pattern makers. If you could get just ONE pattern designed and released… what would it be! Tell me in the comments below. Choose wisely, you only get one, so make it count.

Get the RTW look with Sewing patterns

Click on the image above for a YouTube video

Our first edition of “Get the RTW look with Sewing Patterns” for this year and as I’m still working on sew along commissions and a dress for my daughter’s school pictures I thought it would be fun to get inspired and look at a few patterns that we can use to recreate the Ready to Wear look without the price!

1. New Look 6694 - I saw this pattern last year and I didn’t even think about it twice perhaps because the one shown on the cover its ok, but someone pointed out that this dress is by Ulla Johnson and it’s her Agathe Dress. It looks beautiful in the website. It is sold out, but luckily we know how to sew my friends!

2. M8178 - I have talked about this pattern numerous times and I found another version, even more expensive than the last time. This one by Rhode and her Ella Zig Zag Belted Minidress, It retails for $435. So not a small sum. Both of these dresses in this style have this braided belt so keep that in mind when you order fabric for it. order a little extra and make yourself this belt to go with it.

3. New Look 6660 OR Isle Jeans from Chalk and Notch - You may have to do some modifications such as adding a waistband to get the similar look but JCrew came out with these Point Sur Sailor Jeans with the slight tapered legs. They retail for almost $200. 3 yards of denim fabric with some notions would be cheaper than that.

4. Murcot Puffer Vest from Cashmerette Club - This is ONLY available this month. I will be honest when I saw the one from the website I felt it was ok, but then I saw Whitney’s from Tom Kat Stitchery and I really liked it. AND then I went to Canada Goose to look at all the things I can’t afford and saw their Collaboration with Reformation and this gorgeous Layla puffer vest. It does have a zipper so as far as I’m concerned even easier to install. Double bonus it’s reversible but the color blocking wouldn’t be hard to do, and if you are wondering that vest goes for $650 at the website…. you can get that pattern and fabric for a lot less.

5. V1823 - JCrew calls their cottage top in poplin fabric one of these best sellers list. It’s on sale too! But you can get the same ready to wear look using Vogue 1823 and change the design of the cuffs (perhaps omit one of the ruffles) and you are ready to go. If you are wondering on the cost. It’s on sale at the moment for $75.

6. M8361 /M8362 - This was just released by McCall’s a few weeks ago and I thought it was interesting and fun if I was back in my 20’s. But then again, I saw this lovely dress on Liberty’s website (because I go looking for fabric over there all the time…. Floral Eve I dream of you every other week), anyways. They had this dress. It’s the Cosette Tie Back Midi Dress which retails for $580 and it was pretty darn close. It has one middle piece vs. smaller ties, which is a pretty small change to make and you can also use the top of KnowMe ME2016 if you want to keep the dress pretty darn similar. I personally love the one from Know Me (it’s just a tad more modest) but it’s all about preference.

7. Joelle Dress from Sew Love Patterns - RIXO Libby Dress , the dress from Liberty is a shorter dress out of viscose crepe and the one from Sew Love patterns has a band along with one tier which you can of course omit. She also shows in the website how you can remove the bow.

8. Ravenna Knit Dress by Tammy Handmade - Cassini Knit Dress from Reformation. I have to say this one is pretty darn spot on. I know a lot of people don’t like to wear knit dresses, I absolutely love them. Just remember to line them with power mesh and don’t even bother with Spanx also give yourself some extra ease in a couple of spots so you aren’t concerned about it being too tight.

9. S9703 - this pattern is brand spankin’ new and was just released. I think I’m going to be making this pattern for my daughter, and while I was looking at that vest I stumbled upon the Bronwen Dress….. which is made out of Viscose aka Rayon and it retails for $278. I actually like Simplicity’s design which is perfect and a little bit more modest for my daughter.

10. Burda 5920 - This is one of Burda’s new patterns, it’s not even on the Simplicity website and I’m afraid it may only be available if you order it online from Burda. But I loved the pattern and did a double take when I saw this Kian Clouds Dress from Stine Goya on Liberty’s Website. It's quite lovely and I think it would be perfect in a fabric with a large print, I must say Liberty did a great job with the accessories and the styling. It retails for $290.

We should be seeing some new patterns from Vogue and Butterick pretty soon. I wonder if we will see a spring collection from New Look… here’s hoping that we do! I hope you got inspired and that you want to make all the things, as always too many ideas and not enough time to make it all.

Sewing books that have helped me with fit and sewing

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Last year I really made a point of focusing a little more on fitting my clothes, yes bodies change and mine sure did. But with every garment I made I made a point to work on fitting things a little more and believe it or not I read a lot of books about garment fitting or construction of garments ol’ skool style.

1. Palmer Pletsch Guide to Fitting: Sew Great Clothes for Every Body by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto - Great book if you are looking to learn how to tissue fit. This is part of the Sewing for Real People Series. They use a lot of their current tissue fitting patterns and it’s mostly done on Real People that look like you and me. It has different examples and how to tackle so many of these. It can be how to see if you need a full bust adjustment, how to do a bicep adjustment, how to length a pattern. It doesn’t cover fitting pants so that is perhaps another book that you should look at but without a doubt it is a great book to have as a reference.

2. Fit and Sew Custom Jeans: Classic and Creative Sewing Techniques for Modern Patterns by Helen Bartley - This book is recently new…. as in a year or two new. If you are making jeans for the first time or perhaps fitting pants this is a great book to have in your sewing book library. They fit some of the most popular jeans pattern such as the Ash Jeans from Megan Nielsen, the Ginger Jeans from Closet Core Patterns or even the Ames Jeans from Cashmerette. Every time they use a real live model and show you how to tissue fit and what to look for and how to change it. It also talks about ease on stretch jeans vs. non stretch jeans. The history of jeans, what to look for in denim fabric, fabric weights, notions to use and how to tackle a few sewing tricks….. It is a great book.

3. Tailoring by Singer Sewing Books - This book is circa 1988 which I’m sorry but that was the other day as far as I’m concerned and like older books, there are some GOOOOD things in this book. It is great if you are making a suit, blazer or coat. It talks about pad stitching, lapels, interfacing, fancy pockets that are lined. It really teaches you some professional tailoring techniques and I’m going to say if you are making perhaps a coat, were you spent a lot of $$$ in fabric and are really putting in the time it is a great book to reference. It is out of print because it is older but the information in here is amazing.

4. All New Fabric Savvy - How to Choose and Use Fabrics by Sandra Bettina - Sandra Bettina recently retired and she left us with a wealth of sewing patterns and great information. This is one of those books that I reference again and again. It talks about how to care for fabrics, what presser foot to use, what needle to use, what stitch length, what stitch type, and how to finish the seams. How to do said seam finishes. It really is a great book and a Quick Reference Guide. Sandra also has another book called Fast Fit Easy Pattern Pattern Alterations for Every Figure, it’s a great book and it has a really nice chapter on fit AND ease! IT talks about the different types of ease if you want your clothes to be on the looser, or slightly fitted or very fitted and how many inches in the bust, waist and hip you should need depending on the desired fit. It is also out of print but it’s still available out there.

5. Complete Guide to Sewing by Readers Digest - I know this book has been updated quite a few times and the best place to find it is the thiftstore or perhaps a second hand used store. It is a great reference book to have in the stash. I do love the much older versions of this book because it has SO much information and good information that perhaps you may not use every day like…. shirring, smocking or tailoring techniques. It goes into basics and into some other pretty advanced techniques. It also talks about home sewing if you are into that kind of thing.

I also wanted to talk about another book that I had a chance to preview before it was released. Tova Opatrny is lovingly known in the Sewing Community as Professor Pincushion. She has a great YouTube channel were she has a lot of videos helping you tackle sewing techniques. If I need a refresher or perhaps don’t quite know how to tackle something I go check out Professor Pincushion and she has the answers. If you are a beginner at sewing this is a great book.

Professor Pincushion’s Beginner Guide to Sewing: Garment Making for Nervous Newbies by Nova Opatrny - The book is for beginners and breaks things down in the simplest forms that show you how to thread a sewing machine, where to insert a bobbin, how to read a commercial pattern, how to do interfacing, how to find the grainline and the best part of it all it gives you five pdf patterns that you can download with a QR code to get you started on your sewing journey. I thought it was really well written and it even has some of her quirky humor.

Looking back at 2022 and Sewing Goals for 2023

2022 was not a bad year at all, I got to grow the channel and I also got to do some great collaborations with Style Maker Fabrics, I got to do a lot of pattern testing for Chalk and Notch along with Jennifer Lauren Handmade which released some great patterns such as the Evelyn Skirt, Max Tee and Summer Tote by C&N and JLH released the Kinfolk dress. I love their blocks they fit me quite well, so it’s always a plus to do pattern testing for them.

Of course, you may have seen that I have been working with Minerva creating some of their sew along videos, and it has been really enjoyable to do as I love creating sew alongs. I know so many people reference them or perhaps you are like me and want someone to sew along with if you get stuck while working on a pattern. There is more to do for this year but I also wanted to talk about some of my sewing goals for 2023.

I always think it’s good to take stock of what worked well in 2022 and what didn’t quite work so well as far as goals go for 2023. So lets look at what my goals and “ambitions” were last year.

Here are things I want to make….

1. Make a pair of stretch jeans that fit me - I haven’t worn jeans in forever. I can honestly say its been at least ten years because finding jeans that fit is so frustrating. I love wearing them but trying on different types of jeans for hours and hours is not my idea of fun so I have avoided for them quite a while. I think it’s time I made my own pair. I’ll be using Closet Core Ginger Jeans. I expect it to be an odyssey.

   Well I did in fact made a pair of jeans, AND just as expected it WAS an odyssey but I have to say I learned so much about pants fitting. It wasn’t a stretch pair of jeans and as I’m making more and more pants I’ve realized that I like my pants to have some sort of give. As in stretch woven (stretch twill I love you!) I need my clothes to move and stretch with me. I didn’t use the Closet Core Ginger Jeans because fitting them was not quite in the cards. But I’m trying them again and trying the Ash Jeans from Megan Nielsen. I feel like I have finally figured out the crotch curve. So armed with this I’m ready to try yet again.

2. I want to make more dresses ensembles with a jacket or another garment to go with it, that I can wear to work or wear on the weekends for a casual night out. I’m already planning on using an old pattern from Cynthia Rowley that has been on my stash for some time. It’s K2443. I made a few ensembles, I actually made that K2443 pattern and I looked cute during Easter service but I have to say I’m more of a mix and match type of person. One day I may want to wear bright yellow dress with sandals and another day i may want to wear a pair of black long pants with a teal sweater. Separates is the way to go. Ensembles are nice, but it’s not how I pair my clothes.

3. I would like to try more indie patterns, but will try to focus on patterns that are printed. Call me cheap but I just can’t see myself paying $18 for a PDF pattern and then spend two hours piecing it all together or paying another $15 to have a few patterns printed. Nope! Work smarter not harder. Oh I’ve fallen down the Indie Patterns rabbit hole, (what a difference does a year make!) and gosh I have to say that I can see the value of a printed pattern, but I can also see the value in a PDF pattern. For example think of the Charlie craftan from Closet Core Patterns. The PDF version was 100 printed pages…. hmmm no. Not happening! I still want to make it so I decided to spring for the printed version. But pants and the two million changes that you have to make for pants… I’m happy to have them all in PDF’s.

4. Make more pants! I love dresses, gosh do I LOOOOOVE my dresses. they are so comfortable. But I also love to wear pants. So 2022 will be the year of the pant. I did really well with this goal. I made the Dani Shorts, Lander Pants, Lander Shorts, I also tried the Morgan Jeans (even though those don’t quite turned out so well), I also learned the Top Down Center Out Method and I’m happy to report it’s a great way to make a quick muslin and keep at it. There are more pants coming into my future. If you want to learn more about the TDCO Method I highly recommend you go follow and watch The Crooked Hem on You Tube.

5. Slow Sewing- As much as I want to wear my make immediately, I also really enjoy sewing slowly and making sure that things are finished properly. That stitches are straight, that the inside looks as good as the outside and that it fits beautifully. I also did really good with this goal. I made less and I’m ok with that. I enjoy slow sewing. I don’t love taking out the seam ripper and ripping out stitches that are not straight and the only way to do that is when I’m sewing at turtle-with-crutches pace.

6. Post more of my finished garments, and show you the details. I don’t do enough of this and I should! I hate to say that I didn’t so so well with this one. Honestly I suspect because I don’t want to be judged by the way I look. I have gained some weight (thank you pre menopause) and I have been really self conscious lately on the second half of the year about the way I look. Just know I’m trying. I’m going to try to be better about this and post more of the “sewing along the way posts”.

What I want to avoid in 2022?

1. Buying patterns that do not suit my body type or they have no-snow-ball-chance-in-hell of me making them. I must admit that I have quite a few of those. McCall’s patterns… I’m looking at you! Yeah I’m slowly learning that there are some things that just will not look good on me…. empire waist dresses, wide leg pants or anything that is top heavy. Which is a reminder that I have to part ways with some patterns that are just big no’s. I passed up on a lot of patterns last year. As beautiful as they were, I just knew that I wasn’t going to make them and I had to be ok with that.

2. Stop buying fabric without a purpose. If I’m going to spend money on fabric I want to make sure I have a pattern and a plan for it. No buying extra fabric that I don’t need, I don’t care how pretty, how good the fabric sale is or how maybe in some distant future I can make X with it. That’s the quickest way to buy fabric that just sits there…. forever. I actually did ok with this one. I am buying fabric but I do have an idea for what I want to make with it and buying them in the amount. For example… bias skirt 1.5 yards. Cardigan.. 2.5 yards, button down shirt 2.5 yards. blouse 2 yards. I know have a plan and I plan to continue buying fabric this way. I really don’t like having a large piece of fabric after I’m done. half a yard of extra fabric laying around is way too much and its a waste.

3. Be so hard on myself if something is not perfect. Strive for excellence but don’t get frustrated if it’s not absolutely perfect. I’m going to call this one “confident improver” with room for growth. Remember this critique is about MY sewing and nobody else's. I hate to say this but I can’t unsee seams that are not matching, stitches that are not straight, puckers, I had a few invisible zippers that were not so invisible (and lets just say that those went to the donation pile) and there is a saying by a trainer in Peloton “how you do anything is how you do everything”. It is so true. If you half ass something, then you half ass everything. But if you really try to get better at it, and put an effort, show you will care and get better at it then it shows. But when you don’t, well then you don’t. Thats how you get the seams that don’t match (by the way, you avoid that by pressing) and the invisible zippers that are seen. I want the “Wow, did you make this?!” comment… and trying to stay away from “yikes, did you make this?”. I’m going to say this….nobody is perfect but I really want my clothing to look well made.

4. Taking on more projects than I can comfortably tackle in one month. I really did well with this one. One project for the entire month of December. It was bliss! Scale back during the summer and get outside for a walk, swim or go take the kids out for ice cream…. it was so well worth it to say no to collaborations or ads for stuff that none of you will need like violent video games or bras that make your bust look five times what it truly is. jewelry that comes inside chocolate… why! Yeah, no thank you. I also said no to some collaborations that although I would have loved to have been part of, I just knew that I didn’t have time or would have created stress. Not about that in my life.

Goals for 2023…

1. I think the goals above are pretty darn good. I really do.

2. I will continue doing our using Commercial Patterns to recreate some Ready to Wear styles because of course…. who wants to pay $60 for a pair of shorts when you can make them for $20. We know how to sew and that is a super power as far as I’m concerned.

3. Some of you have requested more information on what pattern size I’m cutting mostly for the big four. I’m happy to do this right before I do a sew along, tell you about the fabric I’m using, what pattern size I’m cutting and what alterations I’m doing BEFORE I do a sew along. So that would be a separate video before the sew along.

4. Do Vogue Pattern sew alongs. Vogue patterns tend to be a little bit more in depth so I suspect that when I do these, I will break them down into smaller 30 minute videos. But you get some unique techniques or unexpected pattern pieces or just learning how to line a dress or coat.

5. Anything else that you would like to see more of on the channel? More Sew Alongs perhaps from Indie Designers? More Pattern Reviews (Although I don’t believe you care for these, it may be just a blog post and not a video), How I fit my garments? Sewing Plans per month?

Sewing Plans for January 2023

Click on the image above for a You Tube sewing plans video.

Trying to keep my goals for this year in mind and also think of what I need as I get thru the winter season.

Here is what I’m working on:

• Agnes Top from Tilly and the Buttons - Working with this fun Valentine’s Day jersey from Mood Fabrics.

• Simplicity S9273 Pattern - Using this Lady McElroy Crepe Jersey that I got from Minerva.

• Marlo Sweater from True Bias or the Tabor Sweater from Sew House Seven- I got 2 yards of this rayon knit fabric and trying to decide between the two. Which one would you select? The Marlo Sweater or the Tabor Sweater?

Ash Jeans from Megan Nielsen - I just used the top down center out (TDCO) method for another pair of pants and I must say I was really surprised how quickly I was able to fit my pants. And Although my pants were meant to be a loose pair of pants, you can make as many loose pair of pants as you want but if your butt doesn’t fit in there because the crotch curve is not allowing some room… then it’s not going to fit so needless to say I’m glad I went ahead and made a muslin. So for this pair of Ash Jeans, it’s going to be the exact same way.

• Isle Jeans from Chalk and Notch - This is going to be one of those we shall see if I get to it because they also have to be fitted but that will get done with the TDCO method. I still have to find fabric for these jeans because they call for a 10 ounce stretch denim fabric so that will be interesting to see what I find.

  What is everyone working on for January? I’m trying to start slow for January and get my bearing back as I’m also trying to get thru some projects that I got commissioned to do. So those take precedent right now and they are all sew alongs so for the month of January this is what I’m focusing on.

Pattern Review Vogue V1711 Rachel Comey Coat

Vogue V1711 is inspired on Rachel Comey’s Jaunt Coat. It is still a popular garment on her ready to wear website. It’s available in several colors and different substrates. Suffice to say, although it is not a quick garment to make the instructions are excellent and it’s a very well drafted pattern.

Click on the image above for Pattern Review Video on Vogue V1711

Pattern Description: Vogue V1711 is an oversized lined coat with raglan sleeves, welt pockets, rib cuffs and front zipper. It is based on Rachel Comey’s popular Jaunt Coat. Most of her outerwear is oversized and this pattern is no exception.

Rachel Comey Jaunt Coat

Pattern Sizing: Pattern sizing goes from XS to XXL. Did I mention the pattern is oversized? It is way oversized. Based on my measurements the pattern would have put me at the largest size. Looking at the finished garment measurements on the tissue I decided to cut a size Medium. That is three sizes down and I’m so glad I did. I usually fit coats with a heavy sweater under it (or two layers of knit fabric… think long sleeve t-shirt and a cardigan) as thats how I’m going to be wearing it. This was no exception. Even while going with a few sizes down I still have plenty of room under the coat while zipped up to move my arms, sit and move comfortably under it.

Did it look like the photo / Pattern Drawing: Yes, it looks exactly like the picture on the pattern. I would love to find the fabric that is shown on the pattern or on the websites but I suspect I will have to wait a few years for deadstock if it ever becomes available. It is also available in a Pink Herringbone fabric with a lambswool collar. That would be dreamy.

Were the Instructions Easy to Follow: Yes for the most part. The only spot I found that was tricky was adding the rib knit cuffs and the cuffs facing. This is not quite correctly illustrated on the pattern but I was able to figure it out. Or at least I think I did!

What did you like or dislike about this pattern: I didn’t like that I had to cut a two way separating zipper for this pattern. I’m not quite 100% happy with this area of the coat, but I will get over it. If I ever make it again, I have to pre order the zipper from a trim company OR get the right tools so I can add a metal stopper to a cut zipper. Also, you can tell from the pattern pictures and pieces the collar is meant to be made in a lambswool, faux fur or sherpa like fabric. So that is another alteration that may have to be made to the pattern pieces so they fit correctly if you are NOT using a contrasting fabric for the collar.

The pattern includes welt pockets that sit higher and rib knit cuffs with cuff facings

Fabric Used: I used a deadstock Merchant and Mills Plaid Wool. It was not the easiest fabric to match or work with as it frayed a lot. I can’t quite explain it but it was a mixture of soft thick wool with a loose weave. The weave also had metallic thread running thru it which also made it a tad challenging to cut. With all that being said it is beautiful fabric and I’m glad I powered thru with it. My sleeves are not quite matched because I didn’t have enough fabric but to be honest it would take five minutes of looking at it with a trained eye to tell I wasn’t able to match it (blame it on I didn’t get enough fabric)…. and honestly, I don’t care! The fabric is busy enough with the colors that it’s somewhat hard to tell. I used a Helmut Lang Black Cupro Twill Lining (it is now sold out) from Mood Fabrics and Black Rib Knit from Joann’s.

Pattern Alterations or any other design changes you made: Although I went down three sizes I had to take in the raglan sleeves in the front and back seams a LOT! I had to grade from the center of the seam towards the shoulder seams as I had a lot of fabric in this one location. Almost 1- 1/2” in addition to the 5/8” seam allowance as there was so much fabric there. Even after I did this I still have full range of motion on my arms. Which is great!

I also had to add in two neck darts on the back of the neckline so the back piece hugged my neck and also the shoulder seams were right on the middle of the shoulders. I suspect if I try using the fabric shown on the front cover of the pattern that might be something I wouldn’t have to do. Lastly, I would have also done away with the center seam on the back piece but I kept it thinking that I may need it later on to do alterations to it so I kept it. Next time it will be gone.

Vogue 1711 - Sleeve Pattern (Notice the dart AND the pleat)

That middle seam will be gone next time. I didn’t need to use it to fit the coat. When I cut my lining I just took out the seam allowance and cut it on the fold.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others ? Yes, I would sew it again but I would use a wool fabric that requires no pattern matching and find a zipper that fits to a T so I wouldn’t have to cut it, That pattern matching alone took me forever to cut and match. I would highly recommend this pattern to someone that is looking to level up their coat making game or a project that will take between 1 to 3 weeks depending on their skill level. There was some hand sewing included in this pattern too. It took me about three weeks and I sew at a turtle-on-crutches pace as I don’t like using my seam ripper unless its to take out basting stitches.

Inside of the collar - Vogue V1711

Conclusion: Makers beware! This pattern is oversized so perhaps tissue fit and go a few sizes down. It’s an enjoyable sew with great details such as welt pockets, rib knit cuffs, lining, oversized collar and a zipper guard facing. Instructions are great and it is truly a well drafted pattern by Rachel Comey.

I also want to add, Vogue V1711 JUST came out of print at the time I’m writing this review. I’m sure you are able to still find it around retail stores. If you can find it, grab it and sew it. You will not be disappointed.

Black Friday Indie Pattern Haul

Click on the Image Above for a video on these indie patterns

Indie Designers release new patterns just about every other week. Of course I can’t buy them all and I feel like buying an indie pattern is really an investment because they are not inexpensive (and rightfully so there is a lot of work that goes into them), but I do patiently wait for the sales. They do happen at least once or twice a year and this time around I was happy to indulge in buying some patterns that I have waited to purchase for a very very very long time.

Here is a list and link to the indie patterns I got.

1. Closet Core Patterns - Elodie Wrap Dress.

2. Atelier Jupe -Frida Blouse

3. Atelier Jupe - Zoey Blouse

4. Sew La La patterns - Mara Knit Top

5. Sew La La Patterns - Zoe Coat and Jacket

6. PaperCut Patterns - Nova Coat

7. Megan Nielsen - Brumby Skirt

8. Megan Nielsen - Ash Jeans

9. Megan Nielsen - Jarrah Sweater

10. Megan Nielsen - Reef Pattern

11. True Bias - LODO dress

12. True Bias - Southport Dress

Needless to say I will not need to purchase any indie patterns til the end of 2023.

Black Friday Fabric Sales Haul

I had a goal in mind when the year started. That was to buy fabric with a purpose. Meaning don’t be buying 4 yards of fabric and thinking maybe in two years I will figure out what to do with that. I have to say I’ve been pretty good at having a plan for my fabric buying this year. So when Black Friday came around I made sure that I had a plan for every single purchase I had in mind when it came to fabric. I researched, I read up on he fabric, fabric weight and what projects would work well with what I was about to buy. I also made sure to buy just enough fabric from what was mentioned in the pattern so as not to buy more than I need. One of my biggest pet peeves is having leftover fabric… and by leftovers I mean 1/2 yard or 3/8 or anything less than 1 yard. There are only so many pockets, bias binding or facings that I can make with those little scraps.

I also knew I wanted to support small business as much as possible, I also knew that most business in the sewing community would have their biggest sales during the week of Thanksgiving.. So I got ready and filled up a lot of shopping carts …. and waited for the sales. If it wasn’t on sale, It got left behind.

Style Maker Fabrics

What can I say I love them. They have great service, they package my fabric beautifully, they send it right away. Classic small business, the owner has a hand in it. They also have a great selection of fabrics and the unexpected which I love. I got a coral rayon fabric from Atelier Jupe for a Zoey Blouse and 2.5 yards of Atelier Brunette fabric to make a Zoey Blouse.

Minerva

I ordered some fabrics from Minerva. They had a great sale for Black Friday but the Royal Mail has been striking the entire month of December so I honestly don’t expect to get my fabric until 2023. Needless to say I’m excited for the items I ordered and what I’ll be making with it.

Mood Fabrics

It is the tale of looking for Silk Jacquard and the last two yards that I really really wanted sold in front of my eyes, which means they were not meant for me. But I was able to find the a deadstock knit wool fleece fabric from Rachel Comey along with some stretch twill for a pair of pants, bamboo knits for t-shirts, modal jersey and a Cupro Lining for my plaid double faced coat.

Salt Lake Sewcity

A great independent store out in Salt Lake City. I have been looking for an olive green twill fabric and they had it, at a great price. Sewcity sells mostly deadstock so when it’s gone, it’s gone.

Fabric Mart

I must say, I don’t shop at Fabric Mart a whole lot. But I have been patiently waiting for them to put some Liberty of London Fabric on Sale and they did. This is the type of cotton lawn that you if you don’t buy it right when its available it is gone. I got a great price on it.

Jacket | Coat Patterns for Beginners, Intermediate and Advanced Makers

Click on the link above for a YouTube video on the patterns listed below.

It is cold, there is no denying this. If you live in the northern hemisphere winter is here, and if you sew its that time when you consider making a coat/ jacket. Also I want to point out a coat is a long clothing garment worn by either male or females. A jacket is a shorter and usually extends to the upper thigh. So…. If you are beginner it can be hard to figure out what is good and what you should stay away from as far as coat pattern goes. Here are some great patterns to get you started, build on your confidence and eventually level up.

Great for Beginners

New Look 6585 - This is a double faced coat so you do not need a lining for it. No sleeve heads no shoulder pads, no buttons. None of that! It is a great place to start so you get used to making a coat, it has a hood, raglan sleeves and it is easy to fit. You will need double faced fabric or you can even used a reversible fabric.

Simplicity S9388 - That all famous shacket pattern from Simplicity Its a great pattern to try out with a very loose fit, dropped shoulders, patch pockets and its unlined.

Friday Pattern Company - Illford Jacket is an unlined jacket with a few different lengths. It also has two different types of sleeves so you can do a more boxy sleeve or a sleeve placket with a cuff.

Intermediate Level

Simplicity S9187 - It is a relaxed fit jacket and coat with a shaped collar sleeve cuffs and pocket detail (aka side patch pocket) you can also do faux fur collar, cuffs and belt. This coat pattern is lined so this is a good one to learn how to line or how some people like to call it “bag’ a coat.

M8013 - I know this pattern has been around for a few years (since 2019) and its great if you are looking to make a lined coat and make sure your shoulders fit and all that good stuff. I suspect this pattern is about to go on sale because it’s on clearance right now as of today end of November 2022 so if you like it grab it. It has a detachable fur collar, it also has a collar with points (and if you have ever made a coat it can be tricky to make these look good… it really is all about practice) like making buttons per Jackie the designer at McCalls the jacket does have some overlap in the center front so you can either leave it without any buttons or you can just create a belt and close it that way.

Sew La La Patterns Zoe Coat and Jacket - What a great pattern to start kicking off the training wheels. The Zoe Coat is a loose fitting jacket with a straight bodice and dropped shoulders. It has three different lengths…. You can sew it lined OR unlined! You also have a few different pocket variations . You can do a patch pocket or a welt pocket. Again a nice coat for you to level up, no need to go crazy fitting things but you have some great options in terms of lining or leaving it unlined and you can also do a welt pocket if you wanted to expand on your knowledge. Double bonus the designer created a You Tube video for you to Sew along with her.

Advanced

Ready to throw the training wheels off into oblivion?!

Try M7694 - It is now out of print (but available as a digital file on the SomethingDelightful Website). But this is a Moto Jacket and a good one. It is a loose fitting lined Moto jacket with a front zipper, back yokes, it also has a collar with “pointy ends” and different pocket variations. One that happens to be a welt. You also get to practice some top stitching.I have made this pattern and instructions are top notch as they are from palmer pletsch.

Butterick B6385 - This pattern is still in print. you will have to fit this coat but it’s beautiful. It is a fitted coat with princess seams, back yoke, two = pieces sleeve, coat and pocket variations. It also has welt pockets. I know Whitney from TomKat Stitchery has done a pretty extensive sew along for this one, so if you are looking. for a little bit of guidance along the way… this is a great coat to learn and really practice those skills that you have learned along the way such as welt pockets, lining your jacket

Sew Along for M8149 A Denim Skirt

Click on the Image Below for a You Tube Sew Along Video

Pattern Description: McCalls M8149 is a denim skirt pattern. However you can make this pattern in many different fabrics and it’s one of those classic patterns to have in your stash. You can make this in faux leather, faux suede, corduroy, twill, denim…. canvas. The possibilities are endless. Although it is for a non stretch heavy weight fabric I decided to go rogue and use a stretch denim from Style Maker Fabrics.

Pattern Sizing: Sizing starts at 8 and keeps going to size 24. I cut a size 24 knowing. full well that I would have to grade down around the waist and hips, but with stretch denim I wanted to make sure that I had plenty of fabric to “play with” as I was going to fit it as I was sewing it. I did the same thing when I made it in a corduroy so why not do the same now.

Did it Look like the photo / drawing on the pattern envelope: It did. I chose to do view B and although the pattern is meant to be worn below the knee I made it into an above the knee skirt I’m very happy with it.

Fabric Used: I used a stretch 10.2 ounce denim from Style Maker. Fabrics. I had an autumnal print and I absolutely love it. I washed it once and it hasn’t lost any of the print or faded. My only regret is not buying more of this fabric, I can see a button down shirt dresses and even a fitted jumpsuit in this beauty.

Adjustments: I had to take it in on the sides around 1.5” on both sides and I took it in the center back seam around 1.5”. I also tapered from the hips down for a slightly fitted look. I also moved the center back hem opening to the side. Lastly, I didn’t use topstitching thread on my side seams. I just serged and topstitched with black thread. I used a pocket template for the back pockets, I always do. Any time there are two or more pockets and they need to match I make a pocket template to make sure they do.

Would you sew it again? Yes, I would sew it again. It is a great pattern. There are a few notches that don’t quite align like the one on the sides nor do the length of the hem for view B (but I had plenty to take off for the hem), and I would have tackled the zipper insertion a different way but with all that being said…overall it’s a great pattern with good instructions and drawings.

Would you recommend it to others? Yes. It’s one of those tried and true patterns that you should have in your pattern stash. You can make it in so many different fabrics. I made view B but View A also looks like a fun one to make. It is also quite comfortable! The stretch fabric is perfect to move about and walk!

Fall 2022 Pattern Haul

Click on the image above for a You Tube video on the patterns listed below

I have been making a conscious effort not to buy any patterns that I know I will not make now or ever. So over the last couple of months I have bought a few patterns but the reality is that I have scaled down my pattern buying considerably.

Here is a listing of the patterns I have purchased:

Vogue V1923- I talked about this pattern on my RTW video. Its inspired from the Virginia sweater from Altuzarra. Its a little different but pretty darn similar.

Vogue V1908 - I loved this pattern the moment that I saw it. It is a V neckline, collar, button detail with a wrap around skirt. It would be great if I can make it for the holidays but let’s see how much I can tackle in the next couple of weeks as we go into the holidays next week.

Know Me Patterns ME 2001- I loved this coat from Beaute’ J’Adore the moment it was released. Thank goodness for pattern sales because I scooped this one up the moment I saw it.

McCalls M8343 - This is part of the new McCalls collection and I’m on the hunt for a coral rib knit fabric I can use for this or even perhaps a pretty sweatshirt fleece or french terry.

McCalls M7357 - I saw this pattern on someone that attended TomKat Stitchery’s button down class. She mentioned that it was in fact a pattern top and I can’t believe I didn’t have this pattern before. It is a lovely V neck woven top. The best part…. it has different cup sizes. Can’t beat that.

Simplicity S9614 - This is an oversized polo shirt pattern. I’ll be making the tunic and changing the collar to a neckband that wraps around the neck for a little bit more of a feminine look.

Nova Coat - Paper Cut Patterns I also got the Nova Coat, I know it’s a much older pattern, even changing names. But Paper Cut Patterns had a sale, a rather good sale, so I decided to get the pattern at this time. I already have the fabric for it and looking for a lining. Very excited to make it.

Guess who also had a really nice sale on their patterns last week? Closet Core Patterns so I decided to get a few patterns from them too. Again, Indie Patterns are not inexpensive and I see a lot of these patterns as an investment and patterns that I can make again and again vs. just once.

Fiore Skirt - Closet Core Patterns. It is a simple wrap skirt, perfect for a confident beginner and it has two views. I can see myself making this in a viscose twill or even a linen.

Elodie Wrap Dress by Closet Core Patterns its been on my list to get for quite some time so I thought its now or next time it goes on sale. This pattern is inspired on a Reformation dress. I’ve seen numerous variations on it and they all look beautiful.

Last but not least I got one of their newest pattern….

The Mitchell Trousers. I got them the day that it was released. I Never EVER get a pattern the day its released. I think about these purchases for quite some time. But I really loved the flat front with the pleats towards the sides. This will be one of my items on the sewing plans for the rest of the year. I got the fabric for it and I’m ready to make a muslin and sew away,

I love the new Pebble Henley top from Sinclair Patterns. I think it would be a top that I would wear again and again…. but I already have a Simplicity pattern that is quite similar so I may pass on this one and try the one I have first.

What new patterns did you get? Any indie Patterns that I should consider that I perhaps missed?

10 Free Must Have Patterns

Click on the Image Above for a You Tube video

Okay, technically they are not free. You may have to sign up for their newsletter. I know quite a few of these designers that they barely send out newsletters. Anyhow, free patterns are usually shared by designers so you can try out their block, how are their instructions, do you like their line drawings… how about designs? Its a great way to try a new designer. Here are ten that are worth downloading.

Etty Camisole by Tammy Handmade - Perfect Camisole pattern to get started with woven fabrics. It has this fun scalloped neckline and you can hack this pattern to your hearts content. I made it in a verylight weight Lyocell Denim fabric and did French seams on the side seams for a finished look. Tammy created a sew along on her You Tube Channel.

Pleated Skirt Pattern - Peppermint Magazine - We know all about those pleated skirts. Yes, I wore one during my high school years but this one is actually quite fun. It has side pockets and smaller pleats on the front and back of the skirt. See the line drawing below.

No. 00 DanMark - How to Do Fashion - Love this top with the cowl neckline and the website shows you all the ways you can hack it. Sign up for their newsletter.

Tilda Blouse by Maison Fauvre - I will not get tired of this pattern. Its already downloaded, printed and ready to go. I’m looking for an eyelet fabric or perhaps I may use a cotton lawn that I’ve had for quite some time.

Sandstone Shift Dress - Salt Lake City Sewcity - This dress was released last year. I’m surprised more people didn’t know about it. It goes up to size 32. Perfect for the summer. Dress it up with a cardigan and scrappy heels or just wear it with sandals.

By the way, do go check out Salt Lake City Sewcity. Delaney the owner has some great fabrics at reasonable prices. She also has in house classes and if you follow her on Instagram she shares sew alongs on her stories.

Simplicity Clutch Purse - Thru The Foldline - A great pattern to have for those canvas fabric scrap busters. I can see making gifts for everyone in the family with this one.

Mandy Boat Tee -Tessuti Fabrics - There are quite a few t shirt patterns out there. Here is another one courtesy of Tessuti Fabrics down under. Don’t care for a boat neck? Closet Core Patterns has a free pattern, Deer and Doe has one too, and lastly True Bias released a free t-shirt pattern with their overalls pattern release.

Blooma Tank Pattern - Paradise Patterns - I’ve talked about this one, so many times. The Blooma Tank. Paradise Patterns just graded all of their patterns to be size inclusive. The designer actually grades patterns for other indie designers.

Sign up for their newsletter online and you will be sent a code to download.

Wide Leg Pants Pattern - In the Folds - Who can pass up on a free pants pattern! Here is one from In the Folds. You can hack this one and change it with side pockets, slash pockets, welt pockets in the back.

Petal Skirt - Itch to Stitch - Last but not least how can I pass up on a knit skirt pattern from. Itch to Stitch? Love them. Their PDF’s come together so fast.

Sew along for Butterick B6857 and Pattern Review

Click on the link below for a You Tube video Sew Along

I talked about this pattern numerous times. In my Sweater Weather Fall pattern roundup, in my Get the RTW look for Winter with Sewing Patterns so I thought, perhaps its time to do a sew along for the pattern. Spoiler Alert: This is a great pattern and I can see myself making it a few times.

Butterick B6857 is a pullover with a collar neckline and sleeve variations. I made view B with a few modifications so I can keep my collar closed and act as a turtleneck. After all, I Live in the Midwest and its about to get really cold around here. But if I can ditch the scarf and wear my sweater two different ways I’m all for it.

I used a Cable Ivory Sweater Knit from Joann’s. It has a higher content of rayon and it feels amazing to the touch.I have this fabric in light blue and this ivory color way. But they have a few more color ways. It is very soft, warm but it is a little slippery to sew with it.

Pattern Sizing - The Pattern goes from XS to XXL, I cut an XL. The final garment measurements printed on the pattern pieces were spot on.

Did it look like the photo / drawing on the pattern envelope? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes they actually were very easy to do. I also made a sew along for this pattern for anyone that might be having trouble with the instructions. I have been somewhat hesitant to do Big Four Patterns lately as I have found McCalls patterns riddled with a lot of mistakes, notches that don’t match but this pattern was quite good. The only thing that can be a little difficult is were to start and end the location of the collar. It. felt somewhat intuitive to me, but I can see someone else having issues with it.

Pattern Alterations you made: None, I didn’t make any alterations to this pattern to adjust for fit. I will say that although understitching is required in a few spots, I don’t quite believe it is necessary.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes!

Get the fall / winter look with sewing patterns

Click on the Image above for an YouTube video blog

Vogue V1926 -This pattern is brand spankin’ new from Vogue and if you like Chanel I’m sure you had a deja vu moment because this is from Chanel’s 2022. They even styled that view B with a belt just like they did at Chanel. I would think this is a great pattern to have in the stash. For sure one to get. This Chanel coat retails for thousands.

Chanel

Vogue V1923 - Another great pattern that we got from Vogue. It is fresh off the printing press. Its a beautiful Off the shoulder, close fitting body suit with a crossed bands to create a V-neckline. I absolutely love this the minute I saw it. It also reminded me of Altuzarra’s Virginia Sweater which retails for $595.

Vogue V1921 - This was a rather interesting pattern, that plunging neckline is a tad much for me but it an easy thing to change on the pattern. For this one I had to go way back! Like way back. But this is a 1970’s Ossie Clark “Graduation” dress.

Ossie Clark Graduation Dress via Shrimpton Couture

Vogue V1929 - Here is another one from Vogue’s latest collection. Its pretty similar to Altuzarra’s Jeevika Dress that retails for $1295. Its similar but not quite the same. You will have to do add some buttons which trail the sleeves and the neckline but the overall look of the dropped off shoulder is there.

Jeevika Dress from Altuzarra

Butterick B6857 - I’m about to embark in making this sweater, Its one of those many patterns that I tend to overlook until I see something in ready to wear and I go “aha”. JCrew was serving me this in a few ads so I thought …. why not make myself one of those. It is their Wide Button Collar Tunic Sweater

J Crew Sweater

Tilda Blouse from Maison Fauve - I took a look at this designer because they just released a new pattern (the Chelsea Blouse) and since they are located in France I wanted to download it. Unfortunately when I reached out they said they are printing all of their newer patterns right now and due to people stealing PDF designs they are only doing printing on new patterns. I totally understand I will just have to wait, as the stockiest in the US still hasn’t received the printed version HOWEVER I’ve never tried them before but I looked thru their other patterns and I found the Tilda Blouse. WOW, what a great just beautiful pattern that you can make and wear year round with either a great cotton lawn or even an eyelet fabric. Yes of all this pattern is FREE and a great way to test out a new designer, which is putting out some solid and beautiful designs.

Yet again, JCrew has a similar top, its called the Ruffle Neck Drapey Top made from recycled polyester. I think you can make the Tilda Blouse and make it look even better. I’m looking for fabric right now to make the Tilda Blouse. Its a lovely design.

Tilda Blouse from Maison Fauve

JCrew Ruffle Neck Top

McCalls’ M8343 - We talked about this pattern this pattern when I did the sweater weather video, and you if you haven’t seen it go watch it. But this is a new pattern from McCall’s last pattern released and I really thought that views C and D had a lot of potential, sure enough Talbot’s served me with an ad.

Take a look at the Shawl Collar Shaker Stitch Pullover. It retails for $109.

Talbots Pull Over Sweater

Marlo Sweater - True Bias I would suspect that this is one of True Bias’ best selling patterns. A cardigan is something you can dress up or down wear over a dress, a pair of jeans and sure enough I have seen this design again and again and again in ready to wear, in Moda Operandi. So if you are telling yourself its an indie pattern and it’s more than I would like to spend. I get it, but perhaps look at it as a pattern that you will get a lot of mileage out of and one of those tried and true patterns that you should invest in.

Take a look at this beautiful Cashmere Shaker Stitch Cardigan from Talbots. It retails for $238. When I made my Marlo Sweater it took me about 2 yards of fabric. I bet you can make this for less with a really nice fabric.

Talbots Cashmere Stitch Cardigan

Simplicity S9614 - Is an oversized knit polo shirt with dropped shoulders, but you can use this pattern and make two modifications. One extend the plackets and two cut the collar as a neckband to make a Luan Dress from the French ready to wear Sezane. Even better you can dupe it pretty darn close if you use this Sweater Rib Knit fabric from Joann.

Luan Dress from Sezane

It’s Sweater Weather - A Few of my Favorite Sweater Patterns

Click on the image above for a You Tube video on my favorite sweater patterns for this season

Are you feeling those winds of change in the air? Yeah, its brisk and a little cold… in my country we call it fall! I thought it would be good to list a few of my favorite sweater patterns and the ones I’m planning to make!

Keep in mind I’m sticking with sweaters and maybe a cardigan. I wanted to list things that you can wear UNDER a coat or you can layer with other garments under them like a tank top or a t- shirt. I also avoided sweaters with big puffy sleeves. I know they are on trend right now but I gotta tell you that is as impractical as a pimple in the middle of your nose because its uncomfortable under a coat.

• Toaster Sweater from Sew House Seven- I’ve made this pattern numerous times. It also came out under Simplicity S8529, but its out of print. So if you don’t have it, you can get it directly from Sew House Seven’s website. I have made this pattern out of ponte knit and also Sweater knit. It does have a dropped shoulder, funnel neck or crew neck. Two yards is all you need for the largest size range.

• Marlo Sweater from True Bias - Oversized cardigan sweater with a dropped shoulder, deep V neck, wide bands and large buttons in two lengths. Cropped and Long which hits mid thigh. I recently made one and I’m about to make one more. I wear cardigans quite often to lounge around my home or to layer over a tank top if it gets cold. It is a really well designed pattern and it’s one of those tried and true that you can make again and again and again.

• Tabor V Neck Sweater from Sew House Seven - V Neck Sweater with a dropped shoulder. You use the regular neckband or the extra wide neckband. I JUST got this pattern and I’m in the process of making it. The instructions clearly state that you need to use a lightweight knit for it, so that’s what I’m using. I have been trying to find S8950 which is also a v-neck sweater but it quickly went out of print. I suspect a lot of people don’t use V-necks but busty ladies, if nobody told you. V-neck tops is where it’s at.

• Butterick B6858 View B - Princess Seams Top with a criss crossed neckline. I have made this sweater out of fleece fabric as a sweat along. You do need a mid weight knit for this sweater because you want the back of the neck to have some weight as it will hold the neckline. It does fit a little snug along the chest and sleeves but I get a ton of complements on it and a lot of you always ask me what I’m wearing if I wear it for another sew along.

• McCalls M8343 - Pull Over Top my favorite is view C. This is a brand new pattern. I also just got a pattern from Vogue which is similar Vogue V1833 but it has a dropped shoulder so I’m happy I have both patterns because it really depends on what type of knits I will use. I would go with either a french terry, sweatshirt fleece or a fleece.

• Vogue V1833 - Lined top with a zippered funnel neck and dropped shoulders. Its similar as M8343 but since it has a dropped shoulder you could get away with a heavier knit such as sherpa, wool flannel, or a ponte knit.

• Jalie Emilie Jalie 3896 - Free pattern with a square shaped loose fitting roll neck and dropped shoulder along with a semi fitted sleeve.

• Itch to Stitch Sibiu Top- Batwing Top with cowl or neckband, Botton band and a shoulder inset option.

• Hey June Handmade - Sheridan Sweater - This is a simple sweater with two views with either a crew neck or a bateau neckline… think of a wide turtleneck. One view has an elasticated bishop sleeve, a wide bell sleeve or a cuffed bishop sleeve. From Size 2 up to size 22 or 51” bust - 53” hip.

• Simplicity S9385 - Knit pullover top with two sleeve cuff variations and two lengths, one which features a gathered hip band and two sleeve variations. One has gathers at the shoulders or a regular sleeve.

Honorable Mentions

• Simplicity S8738 - This pattern is out of print, which seems surprising because I would think lots of people would love this pattern. I have made this sweater and it is oversized. Super oversized. My daughter loved it, but I thought it was a tad too big for my liking. But its an oversized dropped shoulder turtleneck sweater.

• Butterick B6857 - I just found out this pattern because Jcrew was sending me subliminal messages on Instagram and I really loved a top. As usual I can find a pattern 9 out of ten times that I look for it. Sure enough I found Butterick B6857 and I got it. So this is next on my sewing list. Hoping to get a cream sweater knit from Joann’s and some wooden brown buttons for a casual but also put together look.

Do you have a favorite sweater? Some of my favorite sweater patterns are out of print or I have made numerous times and I know its time for a little change.

What I Made Last Week - Marlo Sweater, Jalie Mimosa T-Shirt and Lander Pants

Click on the image below for my video on YouTube

A week and half ago Style Maker Fabrics reached out asking if I wanted to sew with some of their new fall fabrics and share some pictures. If you have been following me on the channel you know… I love Style Maker Fabrics. Love them and shop there often! I have a soft spot for small business, women owned business (because I was one of them at one point and it’s hard) and of course I love fabric so needless to say I couldn’t pass up on the offer.

I told Michelle, Style Maker Fabrics’ owner, what I liked and she selected some great fabrics for me. Lets just say I’m very excited for the fall collection because what she sent is oh so fun and perfect for fall.

Here is what I made…

I started out pairing the Marlo Sweater Pattern from True Bias with the Soft Even Repeating Stripe Sweater Knit. This is a light weight knit that is perfect for knit top or a cardigan with a soft rose, brown, cream and subtle copper hue. The color is beautiful and I can already think of a few items to wear it with. Style Maker Fabrics also sent these gorgeous Pearlized Marble Swirl Buttons in Pink, which at first I wasn’t so sure but when I put them on I loved the look of it.

Style Maker Fabrics Soft Even Repeating Stripe Sweater Knit using the Marlo Sweater Pattern from True Bias

The buttons complement the color from the Jalie Mimosa T-Shirt and tie in the color from the rose stripes in the sweater knit. I love a good t shirt pattern because lets face it. You can’t have enough t-shirts or t-shirt patterns. Jalie’s Mimosa T Shirt pattern has quite a few views. Its the type of loose fitting pattern with a few different sleeves and even a sleeve flounce. I opted for a simple t-shirt with long sleeves, but wait til summer rolls around and this pattern will be on repeat.

Style Maker Fabrics fabric for the t shirt is a mid weight cotton jersey knit in solid rose. They carry this knit in quite a few color ways. Plus cotton jersey is great for all times of the year when its warm indoors and keeps you cool outside when its colder during the fall months.

Last but not least is my new pair of Lander Pants, from True Bias I was so happy to get a chance to make these in a chocolate corduroy. This is the Mid Wale Corduroy in Solid Chocolate. Although Style Maker Fabrics has other corduroy’s with stretch this particular fabric has none. I should also add, this corduroy comes in 13 other color ways and I must say it is BY FAR, the nicest corduroy I have sewn with. Let’s just say my sewing machine loved it. The weight of the fabric is just enough to keep me warm while I’m outdoors but also cool when I’m indoors. That is so important during the fall season because warm days and cool nights is really a thing when it comes to fall in the Midwest.

I usually like all my corduroy to have the nap going down. If you’ve never had a chance to sew with corduroy here are some things to keep in mind:

• Pay extra attention to the grainline. If you don’t, your fabric can twist a little on you just like twill and denim do, so do your best to pay attention to that grainline when you cut your fabric.

• Cut all your pattern pieces with a nap.

• Serge all your edges before washing your fabric. Corduroy tends to shed itself a lot! So serging beforehand avoids some of that.

• Use a universal needle for corduroy. Keep the thickness of the fabric in mind. The thicker the fabric the thicker the needle that you will need. I used a Universal needle 100/16. If you have thicker corduroy I would even go with a jeans needle.

• If your fabric is rather thick, use cotton lawn or rayon challis for your facings and pocket facings. I didn’t have to do that with this fabric but for some corduroys you may have to do so to minimize the bulk.

• Use corduroy fabrics for blazers, jackets, pants and skirts. Its a great fabric.

• Make sure to pre-wash your fabric… it shrinks a little, like they all do.

I did the largest size on the Lander Pants. The side seam allowance on the landers are 1” and let me tell you, it came in handy. I also opted for the zipper expansion as I don’t care for buttons down my front again trying to minimize the bulk.

The best part of my new ensemble? I get to mix and match it with some of the other items in my wardrobe. Thanks again Style Maker Fabrics!!!!

Style Maker Fabrics is offering $5 shipping in the US, just make sure you place your order before October 10th, 2022.

What are you sewing this fall season?! What is your wardrobe lacking that you should be sewing right now?

Top Ten Tips for Making Jeans

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1. Pick the right pattern. There are many jeans patterns out there. Stretch Jeans, classic vintage jeans, bootcut jeans. Make sure to do your research before you start fitting them and be patient with yourself if you are doing this for the first time.

2. Pick the right fabric for your pattern. There are lots of different denim fabric weights. Make sure you pick the right one.

3. Wash the fabric a few times and throw it in the dryer. The last thing you want is to spend all that time making a pair of jeans and they shrink after the first wash! They are also going to bleed a little… or a lot.

4. Do a little run thru with your sewing machine to make sure it can handle the fabric before you embark on a making a pair of jeans. There are different denim weights. I used 10 ounce and I know my machine was going thru its paces moving the fabric as it does get pretty heavy.

5. Make sure you have the right tools for the job. Besides a sewing machine, a serger, you will also need a sharp pair of scissors, a seam gauge, chalk pencil, seam ripper (yes you will be basting those seams!), regular thread, top stitching thread, an awl, jeans needles, a jean-a-ma-jig to go over this fabric humps and a mallet to beat down those thick seams. Set yourself up for success.

6. Tissue fit or make a muslin but keep in mind that you will have to do a baste fitting later on.

7. Give yourself 1” seam allowance on the side seams. If you pattern doesn’t do this, make sure to add that seam allowance so you can make alterations to it once you do a baste fitting.

8. Use top stitching thread at the top but make sure to use regular thread on your bobbin only when you are top stitching. Use a straight stitch for your stitching but do a 3.0 to 3.5mm stitch length. You really want to see that top stitching

9. Use a guide and mark it on your jeans when you are doing a top stitching on your zipper area.

10. Practice bar tacks, top stitching (pick a top stitching color too there are so many to choose from) and button holes on a piece of scrap fabric.

Bonus Tip!!!!

11. Make sure you plenty of have sharp jean needles and take it easy.

Don’t be daunted by it. Just start! Yes there will be some trial and error. Build your confidence by watching a sew along on YouTube. There are many of them. Jeans that fit you are really a gift to yourself.

I Made Jeans!!!!

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I finally made jeans! It’s been more than ten years plus that I haven’t worn a pair of jeans because in all honesty nothing fit. I mean it fit, but it didn’t fit right. So wearing jeans was always uncomfortable. It wasn’t an easy road to get to, and I can see now having made one pair of jeans and fitting them that it is easier as I try to make more of them.

I started out with the Morgan Jeans from Closet Core Patterns. They are described as a looser fit boyfriend jeans. But after trying to fit them for a good solid two days I realized that perhaps I needed to look at another pattern. Enter this older McCalls Palmer Pletsch Pattern M5894 (that has not been re-issued under Butterick B6840) Same pattern, Different cover. I’ve had my copy of this pattern for QUITE some time. I’m glad I didn’t toss it.

After making around two muslins for the Closet Core Morgan Jeans I decided to go ahead and try the Palmer Pletsch by doing a tissue fitting and using their book that recently came out in 2021 called Fit and Sew Custom Jeans by Helen Bartley . I cannot recommend this book enough. It really takes you thru all the fitting issues that you may have with jeans in addition to what to look for, as you are sewing jeans. In addition to different types of jean patterns along with showing you normal folks and how they have fitted jeans. Again, cannot recommend this book enough.

I had to add to my waist width (I always do), I also had to elongate my crotch curve and scoop the crotch curve to give my bum some room. I also had to make a curved waist band. The pattern I used uses a straight waistband.

I know I have been mentioning I’m going to be making jeans for quite some time and I have to say they are not 100% perfect (things like the top stitching is not 100% straight in a few spots or the waist band stretched on me as I was putting it on) but I’m rather happy with them. They are perfect for the fall.

I used a 10 ounce dark indigo blue fabric that I had purchased at Vogue Fabrics. It was they very last roll I found of this fabric in their stock and I was only able to get 2 yards but surprisingly enough it was a really wide roll of fabric, I still may have enough to make a jean skirt out it and I will at some point. Just want to give my machine a little breather because she was a little champ thru out all of this.

I will finish by saying, that after wearing the jeans for a day. I can take the side seams in a little more, but for now I’m happy.

Fall Sewing Plans

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Summer is officially over by us in the Midwest as it always happens once the kids start school and the temperatures start dipping into the mid 60’s and cloudy… that just means fall is here.

As I keep sewing I have been trying to be intentional about my sewing. Although I have some great basics I feel that I don’t have enough of them. I’m focusing on garments that will stand the test of time and sprinkling in items that are trendy… but not too many. So here is what I’m thinking:

• Wool coat using Rachel Comey Jaunt Pattern - Deadstock wool from Merchant and Mills. I’m using Rachel Comey’s Vogue V1711 Pattern. I’m afraid that this pattern is now out of print. This is the Jaunt Coat pattern from Rachel Comey. I figured I got all of these Rachel Comey patterns… I might as well start using them. It will take me some time because I will make a muslin for the coat, and I want to make sure it fits well and that I can wear a sweater under it comfortably. Very excited about this project, I still have to find lining for this but I will most likely find either a black of if I can find lining in that steel blue color it would be amazing. You can find this fabric in two shops here in the US. Oak Fabrics or Gather Here.

• Riley Blake Ettavee Marble Cream Knit Fabric using McCalls M7999 view A with the long sleeves. You can also use the Nikko dress from True Bias but I have the McCalls pattern on hand so I’m going to use it. This fabric had two different color ways. This Marble Cream and a lovely Pink Colorway. I missed the boat on the pink fabric (and it was beautiful) but I also felt the cream has a fall feel so I got it.

I love the marble fabric but I do realize it is a LOT of print going on so it needs something to “tame it”. I have been wanting to sew a faux suede jacket for so long. I have saved both of these fabrics for quite some time and I feel that now is the time.

• Chocolate Brown Faux Suede from Joann’s paired with Vogue V1517. I believe this pattern is now out of print but I’ve seen it in the drawers at our local fabric store. So I’m sure you can get it. It has that classic style and it will be perfect with this fabric. I may extend the length ever so slightly but I love the clean lines and modern feel of it.

I don’t know if you remember my failed McCalls pattern with the honeycomb pattern at the front. It was a learn to. sew pattern and it was rather fun to make but fitting on it was awful. I don’t quite knot if I have it in me to do all that work and have it fit poorly so I went ahead and pulled out this older pattern. Its Butterick B6208. I’m afraid it is now out of print… yes I’m using a lot of OOP patterns but we all have quite a few of those in the stash and I don’t really want it to end up at a Thrift store for 50 cents and saying “uncut and unfolded”. So I’m going to cut into it and use this beautiful blue chambray fabric. I will make a tunic as shown on view A so I can wear it with a pair of jeans or black stretchy pants!

I love my Jalie 2795 zip up jacket. I can make it into a hoodie, but let’s be honest. I don’t wear hoodies! So I’m going to make the same type of zip up sans hoodie. I got this beautiful Sweatshirt Fleece and it will go beautifully with a long sleeve t-shirt and a pair of jeans. I highly recommend this pattern and its such an easy sew with nice details.

So tell me what are you sewing this fall? What in your wardrobe are you lacking? Perhaps now is the time to make it..