Alexandra Masson 8/30/22 Alexandra Masson 8/30/22

The Tale of Two Toiles

Let’s start out with the question…. do you make muslins or toilles? Yes? No? I used to not do them and tend to fit as I go. But there are times when you really have to make sure you are happy with the fit and as I have been putting a little bit more $$$ on my fabric I have been trying to focus a little bit more on making muslins and sure enough I’m glad I am spending the time on them. Not all patterns are well drafted, not all patterns fit as intended and not all patterns end up looking the way we envision them to look on ourselves. I’m no different.

Last week I worked on a muslin for the Fira Dress by Liesel and Co. The pattern cover is lovely but I noticed how another maker on Instagram had a heck of a time achieving the look she wanted whilst making it. It all looked well in the front but the back had a huge sway back adjustment to be made. I know this pattern was also tested and most testers were rather happy with the outcome, but this is not the first time I have seen people have to do adjustments to the sway back on this pattern which seemed rather odd but ok. I’m glad I made a muslin because sure enough…. I had the same issues that others did. Upon seeing the overall dress on me, I must say that I didn’t care for the style and I chucked it. I also looked at adjustments on the Fira dress and I believe someone wrote a blog post on the designer’s website about making adjustments to the pattern, and that sway back adjustment is there. I wonder if this came up when the pattern was being tested.

If you are curious I would have had to lower the bust dart 1”, raise the armhole as you could see my bra, lower the V neck (it’s way too modest for me), do a sway back adjustment… in the end I didn’t think it was worth the time it would take to make it, let alone cut into my nice sage green linen. So I’m saving my linen and thinking of another project to work on. For now, if I do make this pattern at a later time, I’m going to stick with the top vs. the dress.

I also worked on M8325 over the weekend. I told myself its a Learn to Sew pattern, so it should be a slam dunk. It is an easy pattern but it is time consuming. So I had some linen and decided to make a muslin because the ease on the bust was large, super large for this pattern. I realize its a Learn to Sew pattern so they perhaps put tons of ease so the maker doesn’t get discouraged trying to fit the pattern.

I’m going to cut to the chase and tell you right now, if you make this pattern, pick some very light fabric with some drape (as in Challis and light as a feather Swiss dot)… and while you are at it, stick with view A… and size down. In my case 2 sizes down! The pattern would have had me using XXL based on my bust measurements, I used Large and it was still way too big. For a pattern like this you want to make sure that your shoulders fit. I reached out to the designer thru Instagram and she was kind enough to answer my questions hence why I went down a few sizes.

After working on this pattern and making a muslin… I have so many questions for McCall’s about this pattern. First of all, did they test the pattern in the larger size range? What I mean by that is when a pattern is made, it’s usually drafted for size 8 and then graded from there to other sizes.

Did someone test the sleeves on this pattern (they are enormous by the way)… on the Size Large the bicep measurement is 18”. You read that right…. 18”. That’s BIG and its even bigger for the other size ranges! This is coming from someone who usually has to do a bicep adjustment and I was already expecting to do this adjustment on this pattern so I don’t know if I was pleasantly surprised when hay I have to reduce the size or I should have realized it was a RED flag for what awaited me. I’m not gonna go into details but lets just say… I dont look cute on it, and stick with Rayon Challis for this pattern… and if you have a large bust go return it to the store right now.

Suffice to say, I’m glad I made a muslin and as I mentioned if you do try this pattern stick with very lightweight fabric… I think linen may even be too thick because once you do the pintucks and if you do decide to do the honeycomb pattern which is so fun (and I loved it!) I also think the fabric will be gathered towards the front, the bigger the size, the more fabric, the more fabric the less shape it gives you. Also throw the facings off to the side and use bias tape for the neckline. Make it easy on yourself.

In conclusion glad I made those muslins. I get a little sad when something doesn’t work out but I tell myself I’m going to give myself 24 hours to silently sulk on it and then move on!

Alexandra Masson 8/17/22 Alexandra Masson 8/17/22

August 2022 Pattern Haul

So we got a pattern release for Butterick, New Look, McCalls and I must confess nothing has called out to me in the last few weeks. Some look great but I’ll let others sew them first as I’m not quite convinced I like them that much to go buy them. But I have purchased some patterns…. and one that I got on a giveaway from Sewing Pattern Review.

So lets go thru them…

Soller Top and Dress from Itch to Stitch - I have never downloaded any of their patterns, which is a shame because they have so many lovely designs. But I got this pattern thru Sewing Pattern Review as a giveaway. I love that website and I visit it often. Anyhow, This pattern is already cut and on my sewing table.

I have been on a Rachel Comey kick lately and I dont’ know if you encounter this but my Joann’s… I don’t think they throw away any of their Vogue Patterns. I’m starting to believe they have a big stash in the back and add in some of the OOP patterns every time there is a new sale. I have found ten year old OOP patterns in the drawers and of course others are from Etsy. So full disclaimer there. Some come from Etsy… and others from Joann’s. So needless to say I have gone on a Vogue pattern buying spree. Here is what I got…

Vogue 1406 - This is the Surveillance Dress from Rachel Comey. She has this dress pattern in a multitude of fabrics and she keeps using this style again and again. I got it. If you look at Rachel Comey’s website, the Surveillance Dress usually retails for $525. So I’m thinking paying $12 for the pattern was not a bad investment.
Vogue 1161 - Hey what can I say cut outs are going strong and if there are any cutouts, this is where I’m ok with it.

Vogue V1209 - Rachel Comey dress with gathers on the center front and a peplum back. I think this looks so fun.

Vogue 1483 - Its a Sandra Betzina pattern, another OOP pattern. But the one thing I loved about this pattern its that I can make it in a drape woven or a knit. I love my knits so I can see this in a Ponte.
Vogue 1411 - Knit Pants from Sandra Betzina, these remind me of a pair of pants I wear quite a bit in the winter time. I’m ecstatic that I found this pattern. Its also another OOP.
Vogue 1049 - Its a knit pattern by Sandra Bettina, it is a boat neck top pattern with an asymmetrical hem (which is not going to happen) but the tank top is reversible an I’m all over that. It is also OOP.

Vogue 1448 -Its an old Donna Karan pattern… and I found this on the drawers at my local Joann’s. I think this is a really old pattern. I saw reviews for it from 2015. That’s seven years if you are doing math.
Vogue 1771 - Its a coat pattern, and I must admit that the first time I saw it, I was not in love with it. Not even a little bit. The pleather fabric it looks like a cheap car seat but this is the Jaunt coat pattern from Rachel Comey, and the coat with Corduroy fabric …online retails for $725, so I decided I can get past that ugly cover an find some beautiful fabric for this. This pattern is now out of print so I decided that perhaps I should buy it now while its in the drawer at Joann’s.

V1833 - I remember seeing the pattern when it was released last year and not really paying attention to it. But its about to get cold any day by me, its already in the mid 70’s and we are half way thru August which is really unusual for us at this time of the year. Anyhow, it’s a pull over, skirt, and pants pattern. The pull over has a dropped shoulder and two different types of sleeves.
V1884 / R11480 - It is a fit and flare pattern with a square neckline. I couldn’t pass up this pattern. I remember it being very close to the Fuchsia dress worn By Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City. Oscar De la Renta published a different dress for her based on this with a magnolia leaves print… beautiful but SJP wore it with a cardigan. I loved the look. This pattern and along with V1888 below was just released by Vogue so they are still available
V1486 - Pattern by Nicolette Finetti its a skirt and a crop top. Love the skirt with the wide pleats.

V1888- This is the dress inspired by Tove. I couldn’t pass this one up. The pattern calls for a woven but Tove has this silhouette in a knit too. It is a loose fitting pull over top with a low V-neckline.

V1893 - Love the skirt and the shorts for this pattern, and that’s why I got it.. Not quite so sure about that bralette for me. Its on trend if you can pull it off.

V9197 - Another fit and flare pattern. This has been out for ages. I love that they have different cup sizes for this pattern. I can see wearing this pattern with a few modifications like a V neckline. It feels like a classic pattern to have in the stash.

Talking about V necklines look at the last two patterns…

Butterick B6855 -A classic pullover top with a v neckline and three different sleeve types. They are going to great with those jeans I’ll start working on any minute now.

New Look N6728 - Can you believe it we got a New Look Summer line this year. Last year we didn't see one. A lot of fun styles with cutouts and open backs… yeah not for me but I found this pattern and I honed on it immediately. It seems as if they dropped the New Look patterns under the cover of darkness because they just sent out an email about them on Monday afternoon. Sizing yet again not great on New Look patterns but this one fits!

Did you picked up any patterns this past weekend? There was a sale online for SomethingDelightful for Vogue patterns for $5.99 and at Joann’s for $4.99 which is the lowest price I’ve ever seen on Vogue Patterns.

Alexandra Masson 8/12/22 Alexandra Masson 8/12/22

Sew Along for M8104-Neck band fix and Adjustments to McCalls M8104 aka “Dawn McCalls”

Step by Step Tutorial on how to Sew McCalls M8104 a sewing pattern for an empire waist dress with a button down front.

*Click on the image for a YouTube video on how to Sew McCalls M8104*

Didn’t want to make a toile, but thankfully I had some leftover ugly rayon fabric around here which is perfect for a muslin. You can purchase the pattern from Something Delightful Website M8104. I purchased this Telio Fashion Fabric from Melanated Fabrics. It is now sold out by you can find it Troy Bluestone Telio Fabric. Here are the changes I made:

Cut a size 24 for the shoulders but a size 22 everywhere else. I wanted lengthen the bodice as my apex is a little lower.
Graded the length on the back bodice piece as I want it to match the front bodice but I don’t want it sitting too low on the back waistline..

*Took out 5/8” from the center back bodice piece and graded it to zero on the sides of the pattern so it meets the front bodice at the sides.*

Raised the neckline on the front bodice.

*Raised the neckline by adding one inch to the front bodice at the center front and graded it to zero at the shoulders.*

I had to redraft the band neck band piece no. 10…. and woah. This is were Dawn McCalls M8104 goes from an easy slam dunk to sew pattern to a beast that is poorly drafted. See instructions below how to check the back band is too small and also how to fix it.

ABOUT THAT NECKBAND from hell…..

If you are here its because you are sewing M8104 and for some reason have been struggling with the neckband. Its not you, it’s the pattern. If you grab the back bodice piece and put the back neck band pattern piece you will notice it is not long enough. And this is where the saga begins.

*See that… yup. The back neck band is not long enough! Great!*

It just means that you will have to redraft that pattern piece. Use Pattern Piece no. 10 and extend it all the way to the size you will need. Remember once you extend it, this will already have a seam allowance of 5/8” included.

*Redrafted back neck band piece. Seam allowance of 5/8” is already included.*

So now that you redrafted the back neck band you can go ahead and cut your two pieces and one of them will be interfaced. This is were I want you to throw the instructions out the window.

Attach the INTERFACED back neck band to the center back on the middle of the bodice back. Do NOT sew the front bands to the back bands just yet because guess what… those are too long so nothing is going to match. Stick with me! Pin the front bands (Piece 9) in starting at the notches go all the way down to the hem and then go back up from the notch where the front band and the back band meet at the seam. You will notice that the meet up point is now too long and you will have to sew the back bands to the back band (piece no. 10) at an angle. Just follow the seam line for the shoulder. Fun!!!!

*Piece no. 10 (the interfaced piece) attached to the bodice. Notice how the seam allowance for the front bands and the back band is now longer much longer than the usual 5/8” seam allowance.*

Now go ahead and attach the UNINTERFACED back band and front band pieces the same way with right sides together. This is different from what is shown in the pattern instructions.

Notice how I added the INTERFACED front bands FIRST and then added the UNINTERFACED band SECOND. I’m doing it this way so your fabric doesn’t stretch when you are adding in the bands, the fabric doesn’t stretch and your back band lays nicely against your neck.

Now trim that seam allowance to 3/8” and clip your curves! Now I want you to UNDERSTITCH so when you fold your neck band the seam were they meet stays towards the inside. See pictures below…

*See the stitching line above, I’m stitching as close to the seam I just did and I’m catching the seam allowance towards the UNINTERFACED band. See picture below how it looks on the back!*

See the second stitch closest to my fingers towards the right? That is my understitching. This is what it looks like from the back. I want to make sure that when I press the bands to the inside they stay there. Do this all the way around the neckband. Don’t skip this step!

Once you do that, you will need to press your seam allowance 3/8” towards the inside so you can stitch in the ditch.

Finish with your buttonholes and buttons! Or invisible snaps like I’ll be using.

Despite all the neckband “drama” I would sew this pattern again. Now that I know how to tackle it, I’m thinking next time it would look great in a linen fabric.

Alexandra Masson 7/27/22 Alexandra Masson 7/27/22

Ten Items you can make with 1 yard of fabric

As I continue to be mindful about costs due to the inflation I’m looking around my stash and what remnants I have and seeing what I can make that is useful, so I thought that I would share some of these with you.

I looked at all of these items using a size 20 as my metric and 55 to 60” wide fabric. So if you are at that size or below… you can make these.

Sorrento bucket hat or Mood Free Pattern or S9580 View E -A Bucket Hat, I gave you the option of the big four patterns, an indie pattern and also a free pattern that you can download. A Bucket hat is a pretty easy make and perfect to do with less than a yard of fabric. Yes you will need lining but I’m pretty sure you have some cotton remnant fabric around your fabric stash that can take care of this.

2. V9008 Shorts - I have talked about shorts. this entire summer numerous times. Perhaps because I needed a bunch of them and also because I looked at numerous styles. But here is one from Vogue. You can make both View A and D with this pattern with one yard of fabric.

3. Sun Tote Pattern from Chalk and Notch - Free with newsletter sign up. You can make both the small and the medium sized totes with a yard of fabric.

*Here is my Sun Tote from Chalk an Notch - I made in the smaller size.*

4. Tank tops - Yes you can wear them with a skirt, pants, shorts. They are perfect on a hot summer day or you can use them as layers with a light jacket over them. You can download get the ever famous Blooma Tank from Paradise Patterns- Free sign up for the newsletter or you can also use Butterick B6874. View D has a tank top.

5. Butterick B6874 Top View C - Talking about this pattern you can also make view C with a yard of fabric. Yes it calls out for 1 1/4 yard but it is a t shirt after all and we all know you can make a short sleeve shirt with 1 yard of fabric.

6. Butterick B6859 View D - The knit skirt uses less than a yard of fabric at 7/8’s of a yard.

7. Vogue 1835 - Asymmetrical Misses Top View A. This pattern is actually sold on the Something Delightful website. I’ve made it. its an easy pattern to make. View A, the asymmetrical top with the short sleeves…. perfect to make in a neutral and wear around with a skirt and a pair of shorts if you don’t care for tank tops.

8. Vogue 8750 - You can also make a pencil skirt with view B. It is 26” long so around two feet and change. I like this pattern because it fives the usual pencil skirt a little bit of a different flair.

9. Simple One piece or two piece swimsuits Such as B4526 for Views A, B and C. Yes you will also need a lining but that saves you some mega $$$ when you compare it to the costs of buying a brand new RTW swimsuit.

10. Simplicity S8882 - View B from Gertie which is a top with a peplum.

BONUS PATTERN: Soller Top & Dress. I just found this one! The dress will take a little more but this lovely top from Itch to Stitch can be made with one yard of fabric.

I hope these are useful when you are thinking of what can you do with one yard of fabric.

Alexandra Masson 7/21/22 Alexandra Masson 7/21/22

Sewing Plans for July and August

Trying to not bite more than I can chew these days because I want to enjoy the summer and be outdoors because as soon as Labor Day hits the weather turns into fall weather overnight and it will be full blown sewing time.

So these are my sewing plans for the month of July and August

Dani Shorts from True Bias. I found some gabardine around here so making another pair. I suspect soon enough I will have to make a pair of long Dani pants for the fall. Its already cut and notions are ready to go. Using some leftover linen and cotton blend fabric from Modes4U along with Gabardine from Joann’s.

M8104 - aka “Dawn” McCalls, Some people love it, others not so much on Sewing Pattern Review. It’s somewhat of a hit or miss on this pattern for McCalls so I’m going to try it with some fabric I have in my stash. Its a Telio Rayon that I purchased from Melanated Fabrics.

Ginger Jeans from Closet Core - Let’s see if I follow thru on this one, I’ve been meaning to make these now for months. MONTHS! This is the month to follow thru with it and make myself a pair of skinny jeans with a bootcut option. The stretch Denim fabric is now sold out. But its a Telio Organic Cotton 9.5 oz with enough stretch for this pair.

The Fira Dress from Liesel and Co - Here I am thinking this is going to be a slam dunk but I’ve seen good and bad reviews on this one. I may even have to do a toile for it. But I found this Olive Linen Blend at Joann’s at a great price so I’m going to try it.

Further down the road if I get to it….

M5894 McCalls- Jeans using the Palmer Pletsch pattern. This pattern has been reissued under Butterick. It is now B6840. I found some 10 ounce jeans fabric at Vogue Fabrics at a great price. Actually all their denim fabrics are at an amazing price, I need to go back there and buy some more.

Alexandra Masson 7/15/22 Alexandra Masson 7/15/22

Mid July Sewing Catchup

Its middle of July and I have to say I have completely lost my sewjo after doing two Sew Alongs. I think the dress that killed me was that Butterick 6872. It was so much work doing adjustments. Then sewing the dress, add in videotaping and then editing the entire thing whilst not loving the final outcome …. I guess that will do it to you. And it did it to me. Wasting time and fabric is not sexy. At all.

So trying all the things that you do when trying to regain my sewing inspiration and picking a project that will get me back on track has been rather hard too.

Here is what I’ve tried so far and what is next to try…

Pick a tried & true project. Yes I did cut a pair of Dani Shorts and I got it all ready to go. I just have to start sewing them.
Try something new. Sure did try B4789 (Out of Print) - oh man I tried this one… and it was full of adjustments, redrafting a sleeve, making sure it fits in the new armhole, make sure there is no gaping in the back (oh yes that was another debacle) and unpicking seams so many times. I lost count. The dress got done but wowza! That was perhaps not the best project to throw myself back into.

3. Check out Pinterest for inspiration. Yup did that! And I found out that McCall’s new “Spring” Pattern M8282 is actually an inspiration of a dress by Altuzarra. See the two pictures of the garment and pattern below.

4. Organize your fabric. Did that and I found a lightweight knit from Fabric.com also I decided to make myself an Agnes Top from Tilly and the Buttons, but first I had to grade the pattern since it doesn’t come in a size that would fit me. So two sizes up from their US Size 16… the Agnes got graded and sewn. Its a nice little top, surprised I didn’t get this done sooner. It will be in heavy rotation.

5. Look thru your pattern stash and organize it. Yes decided this was too much work so I decided instead to add to it. This is what I got!

6. Embrace the fact that you don't want to sew as much right now. Just enjoy summer and pick another hobby like gardening, riding your bike, going for a walk or just reading a book.

Alexandra Masson 7/5/22 Alexandra Masson 7/5/22

Get the High End Designer Look with Vogue’s Summer 2022 Collection

Did everyone had a good time this past weekend? We celebrated two birthdays in our family, I got to pick up my daughter from summer camp, it rained a little, it was sunny and hot…. and I’m sure if you were in the United States you hit up a few BBQ’s. The fabric and patterns sales were hot and I suspect they will be for quite some time until stores get rid of some of their inventory because apparently all of you watched my “sewing thru the inflation” video and you are staying away from the stores.

As I get older and inflation is eating up a lot of our discretionary income on much needed items.. I have become a lot more selective on what patterns I’m investing in or spending time making. I have been looking at the new releases from the Big 4 that have been unveiled this month and I ask myself where is the sewing industry headed as a whole. We saw releases from Simplicity, Vogue and McCall’s. McCall’s hasn’t even released their summer collection. What we recently saw is a Spring collection….. But its summer so, I’m a tad confused but yes that was a spring collection according to Jackie the McCall’s designer. If you are expecting releases from Butterick or New Look don’t hold your breath as the last few years we have only seen releases from them in the Fall and around Spring so if they release anything now it will be quite unusual for them to do so.

But as I take a look at the new patterns from Simplicity and McCall’s nothing, absolutely nothing catches my eye. I felt like they both somewhat dropped the ball on their patterns this season. After seeing some of the reactions from others I’m sad to say a lot of other people feel the same way. Its a different story with Vogue so I’m going to focus on that and show you the inspiration behind these patterns.

Lets start with the swimsuit pattern shall we because, its summer after all and I’m looking for summer, lightweight clothes…. ie linen dresses, swimsuits, shorts, etc!

Vogue V1894 - I love this pattern. LOVE it. Cut outs in the right places vs. cut outs on the sides. Sorry Simplicity nobody needs their waist rolls hanging out on a swimsuit but accentuating assets its what I’m all about and this swimsuit is perfect. This pattern is based on Johanna Ortiz’ unbroken One Piece Swimsuit, which is a hot seller on Moda Operandi retailing for over $110. They have it in a neutral color also known as white. If you have ever gotten a white swimsuit you know, this is to stay by the pool bar and order Pina Coladas all day long. You don’t go into the water with a white swimsuit, because it becomes a “nothing-kini”.

I got one better for you ladies…. Carlos at Vogue was kind enough to give me links for the fabrics on the patterns so you can get that awesome fabric on the pattern cover. Or you can go with the neutral fabric! You can get them both here for the plunging neckline and here.

Vogue V1884 - I love this dress, when I saw the fuchsia version I immediately knew what this dress was based on. It’s an Oscar de La Rental design famously worn by Sarah Jessica Parker on Sex in the City. Make it in that fuchsia fabric, raise the neckline a little or leave it as its drafted on the pattern… add a thin black belt, you may also have to drop the waist but I say keep it as is and you got yourself the Sex in the City Pattern.

V1888- I saw this dress and I thought that screams summer all over to me. A dress that I can make in a lightweight linen, light weight jersey or a gauze, flowy but not oversized. It would give me just enough shape. This pattern is based on Tove’s Clara Tie-Detail Organic Cotton dress design. I love Tove and Carlos if you read this blog post, please keep using this designer as inspiration. It is shown on Moda Operandi in many different types of fabrics from jersey, to cotton, poplin. there is even one version with sleeves! The dress with sleeves retails for $780 and the shorter length retails for $214 (on sale!). Regular price is upwards of $500. I will most likely raise the waist line ever so slightly but this pattern is a winner as far as I’m concerned.

Vogue V1893 - I loved this pattern because…. SHORTS!!!!! Hey someone remembered that in summer we wear shorts and this pattern has that. Yup, I’ll be getting that and don't ask me if they got inspiration from somewhere or they dreamed them themselves but I’m all for a shorts pattern because its summer. BUT wait that pattern also has a skirt and a bra. The bra top reminds me of one of my all time favorite designer Alexander McQueen. This top is based on the Bralette by McQueen. The Satin bralette retails for $1,640 at Net a Porter. You can also get it in denim for $790. That is no chum change!

Vogue V1885 - This is a re issue circa 1966…. when I first saw it I though of Jacqueline Kennedy at a State Dinner. It also looks like a recent Oscar de la Renta dress by Laura and Fernando who are the new designers at Oscar but obviously its not based on that because Laura and Fernando weren’t around in 1966 and neither was I. So I’m going to go with Jackie Kennedy. The construction alone on this pattern as a must have for your stash. I included the picture from the recent Oscar de la Renta dress too. It will give you some ideas as to what you can do with a pattern like this and really elevate it.

V1890 - Another good pattern, and you will really want to get this one because Carlos at Vogue just gave you a leg up on a lot of people ordering this skirt from Moda Operandi. This skirt is an inspired design from Brandon Maxwell. You have to preorder this one and put a big BIG deposit! It retails for $2,695

Here are some patterns that you should get… because they are just that good and you can’t pass them up.

Vogue V1886 -Its a loose fitting caftan, based on a 1979 vintage pattern. If you look for the original vintage pattern (its V7251) on Etsy you will be paying big bucks! I love vintage patterns but it wouldn’t even fit on me so this will be one to be purchased. I saw someone on Instagram that had the vintage pattern and made it out of this gorgeous green fabric.

Vogue V1879 - Bias cut A-line close fitting dress. I’m pretty sure as with all Claire Schaeffer patterns there will be some quality hand sewing and this pattern is no different. It is rated Advanced but the details on this pattern… wow.

There are so many other good patterns in this collection, as always take a look at the patterns. There are a few that are beautiful but I wouldn’t be able to pull them off like V1881 by Julio Cesar NYC. Its a beautiful pattern or even V1882 with the plunging neckline.

Which one is your favorite!?

Alexandra Masson 6/30/22 Alexandra Masson 6/30/22

Sew Along for M7360

Modes 4 U is sponsoring our sew along and when they reached out looking to collaborate on showcasing their beautiful fabrics I couldn’t pass up. Modes 4 U is an online retailer out of Singapore. They provided this lovely Japanese floral fabric along with matching thread. Read down below so you learn more about their awesome thread matching service.

After making Butterick B6872 I needed a simple “no fuss” pattern. This pattern is described as a loose fitting Henley pull over top with a neck band, half - placket , back pleated into a self lined yoke with forward shoulder seams, no shoulder seams, French darts, and a few hem line variations…. and four views. I’m going to be making view D but I will be elongating this tunic into a dress.

I knew that I would have to make a few adjustments here they are:

Lowering the bust dart.
Lowered the location of the pockets …. because I lowered the bust dart!
Bicep adjustment (I have room but I want to make sure my sleeves are not tight), and since I increased it more than 1", I also had to add in a little bit more to the front and back pieces where the sleeves attach. I have an entire Bicep Adjustment video on this topic on You Tube. This is a two piece sleeve so it required me to attach the pattern pieces together and then adjust the pieces.
I moved the sleeve tab to the two piece sleeve seam allowance so it has a stronger fabric to hold on to when its used.
I added buttons to the front pockets and forgo the sleeve flap.
Added length to the front and back pattern pieces. I wanted to make sure that it’s roomy enough as I want to wear it as a dress so I will have to add a minimum of 5 inches to the length. Thankfully for me the pattern has lengthen or shorten lines.
Used gathers to attach the back yoke in lieu of the two side pleats.
Shortened piece no. 13 the collar, as it is drafted too long.

*Front pattern piece with a lowered bust dart and 5 inches of length added.*

I’m using this absolutely Japanese floral fabric from Modes4U. They also carry this fabric in another color way (we love that!!!!). If you have not visited their site I urge you to spend some quality time on their site. I know I can spend a good hour just looking at all the fabrics and items they carry. They carry some popular brands like Cotton + Steel, Michael Kaufman, Hello Kitty (yes the Sanrio brand that we all love and so many fun fabrics, squishes, pencil cases, stationery and Kawaii products) along with Japanese fabrics which is were I found this beauty we are using for today’s sew along.

They also carry Liberty Fabrics… and I strongly urge you to check it out because I did a double take when I saw the fabric prices for Liberty fabrics. As always make sure you read the descriptions and that you pay attention to the width of the fabrics and also the length included per price. Most of the fabrics I looked at were priced at half a meter (which is slightly more than half a yard). They have free international shipping if you order more than $70 / 60 Euros.

Last but not least, one that I really REALLY liked because I’m always running out of thread. They thread match your fabric. Its a complimentary service every time you buy their fabric and this is done by a human being vs. a computer. Whomever matched my thread (and I’m quite particular about this) at Modes 4 U did a superb job! It was perfectly matched. Modes 4 U, thanks for sponsoring this sew along!

****This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase I get a small commission at no cost to you.

Alexandra Masson 6/24/22 Alexandra Masson 6/24/22

Sew Along for Butterick B6872 and Pattern Review

Pattern Description

B6872 is a high waist dress has a square neckline with tucks and sleeve variations which include a flounce sleeve, an elastic sleeve and a gathered pleated gathered sleeve. It also has flounced hem options in different lengths.

Pattern Sizing

The Pattern is available from size 8 to size 24. I cut a size 24 for the neckline and a size 22 for the bodice and skirt.

Did it look like the photo / drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Where the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I even created a sew along for this pattern. Illustrations are right on point.

Fabric Used: I used a royal blue rayon challis from Vogue Fabrics for this pattern. Depending on what view you make your fabric choice will be rather important as you want to make sure that either you want a lot of “lift / pouff” hence pick something like a cotton lawn or a linen blend on your sleeves or you don’t pick a rayon or rayon challis.

Pattern Alterations or Design Changes:

Oh yes did I make alterations to this pattern. After several rounds of muslins I did quite a few alterations and kept on going til the moment I cut fabric for it.

I lengthened the bodice 1” all around and there are many pattern pieces for the bodice.
I adjusted the front bodice piece due to a gap by the bust.
I eliminated the third lower ruffle piece, they ask you to cut three. I cut two. Nothing is more annoying than a lower ruffle set in thirds and side seams that don’t match. Sacrilege!
I also adjusted the size of the sleeve for View C. I took out two inches and I could have taken out some more!
I wrote a blog post with all the changes and how I changed them on the pattern pieces.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

No, I wouldn’t sew this again. I would recommend this pattern to others if you have a small bust and like this dress style. This style is not flattering for my body type and its a complete departure from the usual dresses that I wear.

Alexandra Masson 6/22/22 Alexandra Masson 6/22/22

Butterick B6872

Butterick describes this dress as a “ high waist dress with a square neckline with tucks and sleeve variations along with a gathered full skirt with flounce hem options”. I call it … the nap dress. I’m working on view A and I’m going to be honest I’m not loving this dress but I’m going to stay the course and make it.

I had to make adjustments to this pattern and the best advice I can give you is make a muslin. Make a muslin! Especially for View A because once you set the bias tape under the front and back bodice and set in the flounce it becomes rather cumbersome to make adjustments to this dress. So whatever you do make a muslin! I’m going to say it a few times over! Make a muslin!!!

I’m using a rayon challis for this dress as I want it to have a little bit more drape but you can use a linen or a linen blend if you want the flounce to have a little bit more stay.

If you have been following me on Instagram you will see have seen me over the weekend posting picture of me in my muslin. I created one for the bodice and that sleeve flounce.

But oh I made so many more changes… Here is what I changed.

Alter the front bodice pattern piece due to gaping. I had some gaping on the side front. So much so that I couldn’t ignore it. I either had to do a dart or alter the pattern piece. I didn’t care for the dart because I have a flounce, I have a side seam right there I felt it was too much going on, so I would just have to alter the pattern piece. I actually did a dart on my muslin, see it on this picture, then I recut the piece with that extra fabric added.

Do you see the dart I had to make in the muslin at the side front, there was a lot of gaping in this area. Here is how I adjusted my pattern piece below.

I also added 1” to the bodice- I may or may not use it later on but its nice to have. So for that I added 1” to the front bodice (piece 1), bodice back (piece 3) front side piece (piece 7) and the front side back (piece 8)

The sleeve flounce, oh the sleeve flounce! When I did my muslin I didn’t like the amount of flounce in the pattern piece so I took off five inches of the sleeve flounce.

The sleeve flounce on the right hand side is using the pattern piece as is. It has a lot of volume. LOTS! More than I care, I even did a little poll on Instagram and a lot of people liked the amount of flounce. I did not. All I could think of was “It looks like I’m going to a conga dance party” and that’s not the look I’m going for at least not this time around. So I took off the amount of flounce.

Reduced the flounce amount on the sleeve - I could have recut the pattern piece but I knew all I had to do was fold it. I didn't want to loose the length on which it attaches at the front bodice or back bodice so I left that alone it took the extra length right from the middle of the pattern piece. The grain line stayed the same.
Added length to the middle of the flounce so I have a slightly “longer sleeve”- I free handed this with my French curve, and I made it towards the middle. If I don’t care for it it will be an easy item to just cut off with my rotary cutter.
BUT I’m not quite 100% sold on that flounce…. and I’m ready if I’m not happy with it. Keep reading!

Eliminate the third seam of the lower ruffle -Lastly, the pattern asks you to cut three pieces for the lower ruffle (pattern piece 11) and you attach these, but if you look closely at the pattern cover you will see the seam line as that lower ruffle will be added to the skirt in thirds. Who thought that was a good idea? I know why they did it (it has to do with making sure you can use both 45” and a 60” wide fabric)…. But I don’t care for this. I’m all about seam lines matching to a T. So I extended the length of the ruffle and cut two (in lieu of three) so they match the seam lines on the sides of the skirt.

I could have done a regular sleeve for this pattern but the sleeves included in this pattern are enormous, but knowing that I’m still not quite sure about these flounces and the amount of ruffles I decided to just adjust the Sleeve for View C and see where it all goes. I’ll see which one I prefer the most.

Adjusted size of Sleeve for View - When I said the sleeves on this pattern were enormous I wasn’t joking around. Someone thought go big or go home was the way to go. We all know sometimes going bigger is not better. The sleeves. Are. HUGE! The are almost They are almost 26” in width. I guess I won’t need to do a bicep adjustment on these. I’m actually going to be decreasing the size of them. They are gathered at both the top and the hem. Thankfully I’m using a rayon challis so I won’t get the “pouff” effect, because that’s not the look I’m going for.

Which one of these sleeves do you like? Flounce / Ruffles galore or regular sleeve?

Alexandra Masson 6/21/22 Alexandra Masson 6/21/22

Chalk and Notch - Sun Tote Pattern

It’s no surprise that I love Chalk and Notch. This indie pattern company designs well drafted patterns and I’m here for that. I recently tested their Sun Tote Pattern which is a tote bag perfect for all summer activities (fabric shopping included!). It comes in three different sizes and I reckon its perfect for those canvas fabric remnants that we all have laying around in the stash.

But I got news for you. This pattern is FREE as a subscriber for Chalk and Notch so make sure to subscribe to their newsletter. Click on the link and you will get a link to subscribe to the Chalk and Notch Newsletter.

*Chalk and Notch - Sun Tote Pattern (Small Size)*

As I mentioned there are three sizes to this tote. Small, Medium and Large; and the big one…. its’ Ikea Sized BIG!

So as Goldilocks would say… pick the one that fits just right and don’t miss out on this pattern!

Disclaimer - I do not work for Chalk and Notch, I don’t get any commissions off this post. I just love them!

Alexandra Masson 6/15/22 Alexandra Masson 6/15/22

Mini Pattern Haul …

So I gave you tons of ideas last week of some great patterns you can pick up while there was a sale, and I must say it was a nice one. Any time Butterick Vogue and Burda is on sale its a good weekend as far as I’m concerned.

But let me show you what I got during the sale… and keep in mind I’m trying to be very intentional with my pattern buying. I read a lot of reviews because nothing irks me more than a pattern that is poorly drafted, and even the Big four has a few of those within the mix.

V9311 - This pattern has been around for a while, I’ve always been on the fence about it because that plunging neckline is a bit much and most of the reviewers on Sewing Pattern review have raised the neckline which is not hard to do. But this pattern reminds me of the Lois Dress by Tessutti Fabrics/patterns that is not available in my size. So in comes V9311. Its a loose fitting dress with ties and a plunging neckline.

V9008- Another pattern that has been around the block a few times…. its a shorts pattern and it gets great reviews from many on pattern review and quite a few of you also told me how much you loved this pattern so I finally got it.

B6847 - It is a Palmer Pletsch knit shirt pattern with a cowl neckline detail. I already made it over the weekend and I’m not quite so sure if I love it. it is really long! I almost had to cut two inches off the length. But it does the job.

B5795 - A one piece swimsuit pattern with gathers on one side. Thought I might as well get this swimsuit pattern since I talked about it. I’m on the hunt for fabric. The fabric I really wanted for this sold out! So going to take a trip to Vogue fabrics near me and see what they have. I believe they have a really small selection but I’ll be around that area it doesn't hurt to look.

B6567 - This is a Lisette pattern and I love their designs. I found this out of print pattern on the drawer and felt it would make a great summer dress. Especially with some linen fabric.

B6669 - Another pattern that I have never seen before. Its a wardrobe pattern and I can’t believe I have never seen this pattern before. Look at View C…. and you can also make it into a top. Look at the skirt…. and the wrap top. Yes this one will get some mileage as far as I’m concerned.

Last but not least….

Butterick B6872 - It is a nap dress. We talked about this on my Sew the Look video that I posted last week. Since we haven’t done a sew along for quite some time I thought it’s time to make view A.

So what patterns did you get?

Alexandra Masson 6/8/22 Alexandra Masson 6/8/22

Get the RTW Summer Look with Sewing Patterns

Simplicity dropped their summer patterns last week…. lots of dresses and also I expect Vogue to follow suit either this week or later on next week. But I thought it would be great to take a look at some summer trends I’m seeing online at RTW shops and what we have seen from some of our newer and a few older patterns that have been out for quite some time.

S9605 - Its a brand spankin’ new summer pattern from Simplicity. Although I think it will be a popular pattern I feel as if the ruffles on the sides might be a tad little too wide but that’s an easy fix. The pattern calls for a woven fabric for this but you can also make this in a jersey knit. I found this top in two locations. But let’s focus on Ann Taylor for now. It is their Floral Smocked Shell retails for $59.50 I saw this style on their site numerous times with different fabrics and the flounce or hem finished in different ways.

The pattern calls for bias tape and elastic to gather the waist but if you feeling daring you can try something new (I’m talking to you beginners) you can shir that instead. It’s not hard at all it just takes a little bit of practice.

Lets keep going especially since I’ve been somewhat focused on paths and fitting pants and shorts and making sure that my wardrobe is working for me and I’m wearing it vs. a bunch of beautiful items that I will never wear.

Next up!

S1887 - These have been around for quite some time. It is under their easy-to-sew category for Simplicity and it’s a great pattern because not only do you get pants, shorts but you also get skirts. The nice thing about this pattern is you get an elasticated back waist band. Great pattern to have in the stash.

Sure enough Ann Taylor has a Tie Waist Shorts in a linen blend online. It retails for $69.50. They also have these in Gingham fabric and they even have a pair that has a scalloped hem with a satin stitch so that gives you a few fun ideas that you can do with this pattern, So cute!

Can you all tell I spent some quality time at Ann Taylor’s website? I did, but I will say I love their clothing, its well made and it has a classic style.

Here is an out of print pattern and I’m pretty sure a lot of you have it in your stash… I know I do.

S8175 - It is a pencil skirt with slash pockets and a tie… which you can forgo altogether. I know I have in the past. As I said its no longer in print but you can find it on Etsy or ebay. Yes the pattern has a slit right in the front middle but you can move that to the side if you prefer…. which I tend to do. I’ve also made this skirt in corduroy and stretch twill. Great pattern!

Ann Taylor has a beautiful Carmine Pink Pencil Skirt made out of linen… again perfect for the summer.

Since we are on the topic of skirts, I thought we should look at wrap skirts.

New Look 6456 - Great wrap skirt pattern, view B and C have these pockets but I would not even think about adding those….. View A has summer written all over.

Of course Ann Taylor would have a wrap skirt… how could they not and in a hot summer color. Look at this beautiful sunny yellow. They call the skirt a tie waist godet skirt, I don’t quite see the godets in this but I do see how the skirt is cut in panels that flare out. You can get a similar feel with the New Look 6456.

Lets go back to shorts because it’s summer and I have been looking at a lot of shorts lately. I bet you have too.

V9008 - These are flat front or pleated shorts in three different lengths. I have made the Dani Shorts, The Lander shorts and I’m about to make these as soon as they go on sale at my local Joann’s. This pattern is still in print and gets great reviews.

Ann Taylor has a plethora of shorts that you can check out and that you can make with this pattern.

B6872 - It’s another brand new pattern, this time from Butterick’s spring collection. I suspect this pattern will be rather popular. View A is rather lovely! This would look great in a printed linen or an eyelet fabric.

Talking about that eyelet fabric…. Ann Taylor was thinking our speed. Look at this black dress, it even has a little bit of ladder lace in between the tiers. Take a look at their Eyelet Midi Flare Dress its only available in black …. which hey something a little more dressed up for summer but it’s summer so I would go with a lighter color for this for sure! If you are doing view A you will have to take off a little bit of fabric off the flounces at the shoulders or not.

B6758 - Its a button down shirt dress with a flounce tier. I think this pattern might be an older pattern from Butterick… as in like a perhaps a year old. Don’t quote me on that…. but pick a summer fabric like double gauze and you are in business.

I got an Instagram Ad for Vineyard Vines, I see them at our local mall but I’ve never been inside… I loved this dress. perhaps not in this bright hue (although it caught my eye!) but it is made out of double gauze. Its their Seastitch Double Gauze Shirt Dress this beauty retails for $188.

One more because it’s summer and it’s great to wear a nice summer dress that you can throw a jean jacket for those summer nights.

M8090 - Its a loose fitting dress with tiers. Perfect for summer, you can make this in seersucker. This pattern has been around for quite some time. It has a lot of ease so make sure that you pay attention to that when you are picking sizes.

Here is a great dress from Vineyard Vines and look at that….. its made out of seersucker. They call it the Harbor Tier Dress. Love how they add a band in between the tiers to break up the stripes.

M7360 - Its a loose fitting pull over top with three different types of sleeves. Great pattern to wear with shorts, to be made in a tunic length and wear with sandals. Use linen, cotton gauze or a cotton lawn for that summer vibe.

Who loves JCrew? I absolutely love them. They have some great summer items like this Cotton Poplin V neck shirt. Ive also seen this shirt in white double gauze.

One more because how can we do this summer RTW to sewing patterns without talking about an indie pattern.

The Shelly Tank by Alissah Threads - its a brand new pattern. Its a beginner friendly one shoulder fitted silhouette tank.

Its a popular seller at Jcrew…. the One-Shoulder Tank. They have it available in allllll the colors. I’m fairly certain that you can make this for a lot less than what it retails for…. including the cost of the pattern download and fabric.

S9612 - This is a wardrobe pattern from Simplicity. If you look closely you will see pants and sailor shorts on the pattern cover. It sure doesn't look like much…. hence why I always tell myself go check out some RTW to get that sewjo inspiration flowing. You will have to move the location of the invisible zipper…. why do they think a zipper in the back is a good idea? But that’s an easy fix. Move that zipper to the side!

Ann Taylor has these great sailor shorts. Only available online. Perfect for summer! They elevated the look with subtle piping details, welt pockets and decorative buttons. Use S9612 to Sew the Look!

Alexandra Masson 6/3/22 Alexandra Masson 6/3/22

10 Tips to keep sewing thru the inflation

I’m sure you can agree that everything is more expensive right now. The cost of gas is thru the roof, add in supply chain issues, throw in a lack of labor and we are going thru one heck of an inflation. If you are like me you love sewing but are asking yourself…. how can I keep sewing and enjoying my hobby while not going into the red. So let me give you a few tips on how you can sew and enjoy your hobby thru the inflation.

Buy ONLY what you need - What do I mean by that. Do you really need to buy that wool / cashmere fabric right now for the coat you will not start to make until the fall? Perhaps now is not the time to buy fabric, notions that are just going to collect dust because we aren’t going to be using them. Great you have the $$$ to purchase fabric, instead of buying 4 yards the pattern only calls for 3. Buy just three!
Look for sales - Perhaps you are like me and need to make yourself a swimsuit. Look for sales. A lot of the fabric shops are having sales because most reasonable people have scaled back their buying. So look for the sales and make sure you follow rule number one…. that’s great there is a sale but only buy what you need.
Refashioning - Look thru your closet. What can be refashioned? I know I have this great jumpsuit that I have yet to wear because I just can’t see myself wearing a long jumpsuit, so it will be made into a playsuit and it will be perfect for summer. I also have a three tiered white Swiss dot dress that I have worn once! ONCE, guess what I’m going to be getting to know my seam ripper and I’m going to make that into a top that I can wear this summer.
Thrifting - I will be honest I don’t do much thrifting but some people are really good at it and they can see the diamond in that huge ugly skirt and refashion it into something else. Or perhaps find fabric that is going for a steal.
Shop the remnants section - Yes you may not get huge cuts of fabric but some times you can make something amazing with 1 yard of fabric or 1.5 yard. T-shirts, tank tops, short skirts and short pants.
Scrap busting - Are you hanging on to that canvas remnant from last summer…. make yourself a tote bag, or perhaps a small wallet for your makeup. You can get tons of free patterns to download online and put the scraps to work.
Take a second look at the patterns you already have. I’m guilty of this, I have some amazing patterns on the stash. Take a look at those patterns and put a plan of sewing and which ones you want to make right now.
Revisit unfinished projects - WE all have those. That skirt that keeps looking at me to finish the hem. Yeah, its been waiting for four months! Get to those unfinished projects tackled.
Use the fabric that you already have. Let’s face it, we all have fabric that is just sitting there. Waiting for us. Fabric that we purchased and it’s paid in full and it’s been just sitting there waiting for us to pick the right project to go with it.
Wait for the pattern sale - New patterns from Simplicity will be out today June 3rd. Look thru the catalog and take a look at those patterns with an eagle eye. What do I mean by that? The Big four have sales and so do the indie patterns. Just wait for the sale. Ask lots of questions, go check out Sewing Pattern Review. Make sure that this is a pattern that you want to invest $2, $5 or $20.
Bonus tip - Stay away from any patterns that require large amounts of fabric and notions! Forgo those patterns that are total fabric hogs. Anything more than 4 yards of fabric is too much fabric. Don’t believe me? Do the math then. 5 yards * $15 per yard …. add the taxes too! Don’t forget the notions because you are going to need some notions… zippers, bias tape, lining fabric, maybe elastic to do a waist stay (because all that fabric is going to get heavy)…. yeah…. stay away!

Alexandra Masson 6/1/22 Alexandra Masson 6/1/22

Memorial Day Weekend Makes

I hope everyone had a good Memorial Day weekend and got a chance to enjoy the great outdoors. I was able to do some gardening, lots of walking, and I was able to get some sewing done.

I got a gift card to Joann’s and lets just say anything is appreciated. I added a few extra dollars, took advantage of their online coupons and I was able to buy enough fabric to make two garments.

I made my M7967 dress with front gathers that I’m wearing on the video. Again, this double brushed knit floral fabric is from Joann’s.

I also made a knit t-shirt using S9273 pattern. I got just one yard of this fabric, I loved it but I knew it was just going to be a t-shirt for me on this one. The multi textural print fabric from Joann’s is super soft as its a double brushed knit. I must say I love their knits. I just wished they had a bigger color and prints variety. The quality is quite nice. I’m glad I went to go see it in person because this knit has a very pale lighter than baby blue areas in the print.

I also made a Bias Cut Skirt using M7931. If you are a beginner, Mimi G made a great sew along video for this Bias Cut Skirt. I recommend you practice with a fabric you are not crazy about as cutting fabric on the bias and sewing fabric on the bias can be tricky your first time. But once you get the hang of it, you will really love sewing patterns on the bias as they hug your body. I used this Satin Twill fabric from Measure Fabric. It is actually not a twill but a printed polyester satin made in Italy. It has such gorgeous drape and it was rather easy to sew with it.

I wanted a striped fabric because when you cut fabric on the bias its tricky to make sure that grainline stripe shown on the pattern is on the 45 degree angle (aka… the bias) and having lines helps… a lot!

If you are in Chicago you can also get this fabric from Vogue’s Fabrics.. but only at that price if you order it online. I went looking for it and the ladies mentioned that its not stocked on the floor. SO make sure you order it online and pick it up there. I took a close up picture of it so you see it closely. It is beautiful.

Lastly, I talked about me looking for shorts and I did mentioned I got the Lander Shorts pattern from True Bias. I’m almost done with my shorts. Yes, they needed adjustments and thankfully the side seams on this pattern has a 1” seam so I got to play with it a lot.

I’m almost done with them. I still have to add the waistband, back pockets (which I want to add a button to that too!), add the buttons on the front and hem them. I used a stretch twill from fabric.com and I had this 1-1/8 yard remnant from a past project. It was perfect for this. I had to do some pattern Tetris to make sure I had enough and I did.

Alexandra Masson 5/26/22 Alexandra Masson 5/26/22

Let’s talk about pant patterns… specifically shorts!

It’s summer and we have talked about my favorite knit patterns, swimsuit, tiered skirts, tank tops…. you get were I’m going with this? Yes, its summer and I’m trying to get myself ready because the kids are out this week! So I need to get my act together and quickly!

I have been looking at short patterns and of course I have been looking at the Big Four because hey who can pass up a printed pattern for $2 or $6, its hard to beat that price. But I have to say the options for In Print short patterns are kinda dismal and there isn’t a whole lot that is calling out to me, but here is what I’m looking at right now… both from The big 4 and also from Indie Pattern Companies.

V9008 - I looked at this pattern and it’s a pleated or flat front shorts, and I’m going to say this I prefer to have a flat front short than a pleated one but looking at the offerings from the Big Four I have to say I don’t see a whole lotta options. But I’m looking at this one because it could potentially work for me.

S9549 - I also looked at these, but you know my gripe with these, the sizing ends at 45 1/2” for hip meaning I missed that boat by an inch…. and then on top of that I need wearing ease. If someone in Simplicity is hearing me, we need extended sizing in shorts! Size 18 is not size inclusive. I’m going to stop complaining about that because I sound like a broken record. If you fit within their size range I would say “get them”, perhaps that’s why I’m so bitter about it.

Pietra Pants and Shorts from Closet Core Patterns - Love them. I’ve made two sets of these shorts, they are fantastic. So easy to make and you can tackle these with one yard of fabric. Super easy to fit and these pants are really flattering on most reviewers on Sewing Pattern Review. Printed patterns go up to 20 and PDF patterns go up to size 32.

Dani Shorts - True Bias pattern. They have both full waistband elastic and a elasticated waist with a zipper view. Love these and it’s looking like I may be making some more of both views because it feels like best of both worlds right now so I feel like I’m getting my money’s worth. Luckily they are extended size range so that is great for anyone that is looking for bigger sizing on this with top sizing at 32 which is a 65.5 hip.

Lander Pants / Shorts - Also a True Bias pattern. I got it all cut out…. there is no extended size range on these and I’m right at the top of the range on this pattern. Luckily there is a 1” seam allowance on the sides which will give me some room to play around but I’m not gonna lie…. its gonna be close! I cut out a muslin (out of leftover twill that I had around here, and I pocket I borrowed an old jacket from my daughters which she no longer wears so its ok. But fingers crossed they work because I like the style and I’m ready to make them with a zipper and hack the pockets.

Now… for the patterns that I wonder if they will work.

Emerson Shorts / Pants - Also from True Bias, can you tell I have been spending some quality time on their website? They look as if they are pleated with an elastic back. They may work but the pleats in the front, I’m not quite convinced just yet. Obviously I would have to make these in a rayon fabric and you don’t want anything too stiff because you got those pleats in the front! The sizing is up to 18 with a hip of 49.5” Sizing will work for me. But again…. no extended sizing.

Chi-town Shorts from Alina Sewing Co. They are a mid rise classic, relaxed pant silhouette. They look great… but these go up to size 18 with a hip of 48,5” so yet again, no extended sizing on these. They will fit but … I’m sad for this sizing we keep seeing.

Persephone Pants from Anna Allen Company- They are quite popular with many in our industry. They are a high waist pants and shorts… and they have no side seams which will make this a somewhat challenging pant to fit. I’m on the fence on these…I’m not quite convinced just yet. Sizing goes up to 20 with a hip of 50”.

I’ve looked at Cashmerette, Jalie and others…. I don't care for the other designs. But trust me I have a looked.

I have so much to say about this and how there is very little extended sizing both in the Big Four and on Indie Patterns for shorts. First of all I will say its not easy making a pattern, and that extended sizing has to come from a different block altogether. Also, a lot of indie designers ask for testers and I will say this pants are hard to fit. Hence I suspect is there is a very limited amount of testers out there in that extended size range that would want to test a pants / shorts pattern let alone for an indie pattern company to put so much work or sell something that they may know it will not sell well because pants are notoriously challenging to fit or can be scary for someone who is a beginner.

So with that being said… I’m open to hearing about shorts / pants patterns out there that have a flat front, not an elastic waist, don’t look like palazzo pants and fit a hip of at least 46”.

Alexandra Masson 5/20/22 Alexandra Masson 5/20/22

My Favorite Knit Patterns

Its hot, its cold.. the weather is spring, its summer and thru it all I love to wear my knit dresses all the time. Dress them up, dress them down but most important of all I’m comfortable. So I wanted to tell you about my favorite knit patterns.

M8058 - Knit Pull over dress with necklines. By far my favorite pattern. So easy, so quick to make, this pattern has six different views and the best part I can make it with two yards of knit fabric.

M7967 - Knit Pull over dress with front gathers. This is another winner in my book. I absolutely love this dress. I usually do a side slit on some of my knit dresses and this one gets heavy wear. Although I don’t care for the puffy sleeves I just grab the sleeve from M8058 and use them for this dress. Mimi G did a sew along for this dress so if you are a beginner you can follow along.

M7893 - Another winner in the knit dresses look. This is a wrap dress, I love this dress and its another quick make. The pattern shows you how to stabilize the seams and hem if you don’t have stay tape, which by the way my local fabric stores can never keep in stock.

Adrienne Blouse from Friday Pattern Company - This is a nice little pattern top, but you can extend it and make yourself a dress with this pattern. It is a must have. The blouse is fitted with a crew neckline but the beauty of this pattern are the sleeves. I will be honest on this I actually decreased the amount of volume on the sleeves and I’m glad I did. I usually use about 1.5 yards for this pattern and it comes in extended sizing up to 4X.

M7386 - Knit dress, skirt and tank top. I love this pattern the skirts, love a good knit skirt and if you have a yard of fabric and some elastic this one is perfect for a quick make,

M6966 - Misses knit skirts. Another fun one for skirts. Perfect with a tank top for the summer. Don’t confuse it with the next pattern below, because that’s how I found M6966. McCalls got confused with the pattern numbers and had a skirt pattern inside the cardigan pattern. It happens and they sent me the right one!

M6996 - Talking about mixing up patterns, don’t miss this Cardigan pattern, it has a gathered collar and belt. this is a winner in my book and I love this pattern. I made this pattern a while back and my pink jacket has so many puckers as I was getting back into sewing but I absolutely love this pattern.

Jalie 2795 - This is an unlined zip up jacket with or without a hoodie. It was my first time working with this pattern company and I will say that I loved the pattern, the instructions were perfect, the 1/4” seam allowance was a little scary I’m not gonna lie, but I will say the measurements were right on point and I even sent them an email asking about bicep measurements and they answered.

M7874 - Tops and Leggings for activewear. This is another great pattern, if you are like me and you like to workout, or go for a walk this is a great pattern. Or heck what if you are going for the activewear / loungewear vibe at home… this is perfect.

S9261 - It is by Mimi G, yes the cleavage is more than I like to show, but the skirt portion and pockets for this pattern is sewing gold. I usually borrow the top of M8058 along with the sleeves and use the bottom portion with the pockets and the skirt.

As far as knit fabrics, I usually use a double brushed knit fabric. A lot of knits are made out of polyester which if you are traveling its great stuff because you are never wrinkled. BUT polyester knits can get hot and if you get hot in the summer just be on the look out for a 100% cotton knit fabric, it may be a little bit more money but well worth it just keep in mind that the cotton knit will shrink on you considerably so if you are sewing with cotton knit you better pre-wash that and be ready to loose some yardage to shrinkage. Nice thing about knits in the summer…. no wrinkles!

Alexandra Masson 5/18/22 Alexandra Masson 5/18/22

Swimsuit Patterns

We are two weeks away from the unofficial start of summer also known as Memorial Day weekend in the United States…. although real summer doesn’t begin until June 21st, the my local pool will be open then and I know the kids will want to go to the pool every day. As usual I will be there in tow with snacks, books, a tote bag, and although the swimsuit I made last year fits, I would like for it to have a underwire bra support. So here are some swimsuits that I have been looking at…. some with underwire bra support and others without.

Butterick B5795 - This swimsuit does have underwire support and interestingly enough it is a plus size pattern with the sizing starting at 18W to 32W. It does have different cup sizes which is great and you don’t have to deal with modifying cup sizes. Looking specifically at View D, it also has a coverup, top. skirt and briefs along with a one piece swimsuit.

Megan Nielsen Cottesloe Swimsuit - Its a one piece and two piece swimsuit pattern, although it doesn’t have an underwire bra support it does have a shelf bra. Sizing is from 0 to 20.. The curve sizing is from 14 to 30.

Vogue V9192 - I’ve had this swimsuit in my stash for quite some time. It is a one piece swimsuit (View C has one strap and gathers on the side and View B has two straps) it also includes a, cover up skirt and bikini with a top and briefs. Looking at the reviews from Sewing Pattern Review’s website it looks like the pattern does have a shelf bra. Would love to try both one piece views of this swimsuit. Especially since I’ve had it for quite some time.

Cashmerette Ipswich Swimsuit - I looked at this pattern from Cashmerette and it could be a great pattern however sizing for the cups start at 12 to 28 with cup sizes from C thru H. I would love to take a stab at it but I really don’t want to do a small bust adjustment for this. I’m fairly certain its a great pattern but I will have to take a pass on it. But it could be useful for someone else.

Cashmerette Ipswich Swimsuit Pattern Line Drawings

Closet Core Patterns - Sophie Swimsuit Sizing 0 to 20. The pattern is a one piece swimsuit and also has a bra top with a high waisted briefs. It does have supportive bra cups with underwire. The pattern does have mention of using power net in the center to “hold things in”, which is a plus as far as I’m concerned.

Butterick B4526 - Great swimsuit pattern, in fact this is the pattern I used last year to make my swimsuit. However, it does not have a shelf bra or underwire supports at all. So you are on your own when it comes to this pattern.

I’m also looking into this Out of Print Swimsuit from Lisette, it is not a one piece swimsuit but a two piece with a long tank and high waisted briefs. But it gets great reviews online.

Don’t be afraid of swimsuits, I feel as they are fun to make because you just need a yard of fabric. Remember either 2 way or 4 way stretch just check your swimsuit, you will also need swimsuit elastic, lining fabric or power mesh in my case underwires or foam cups and lastly there are a ton of sew alongs on line. There is a great sew along for Butterick 4526 that explains an easier way to make the swimsuit. Lastly, don't forget that when you are making a swimsuit you need negative ease so it stays in place when you are in the water or dinking that margarita by the water.

As far as swimsuit fabrics go Blue Moon Fabrics has a lot of options for solids along with print swimsuit fabrics in addition they even have some printed lining fabrics that can be a lot of fun. Ordering five swatches is really easy so make sure you get a swatch and pick something fun. Happy Swimsuit sewing!

Alexandra Masson 5/13/22 Alexandra Masson 5/13/22

Chalk and Notch - Evelyn Skirt Review

I was lucky enough to be in the pattern testing group for Chalk and Notch’s Evelyn Skirt. Long story short let me tell you, this is a great skirt pattern. The pattern is a high waisted skirt pattern with three views but in reality, you have three different skirts in this pattern. Sizing goes from 0 to 30, with a hip measurement of 62” for the finished garment measurement on size 30.

View A is a long midi skirt with a side slit and buttons off to the side, View B is a mini version with buttons off to the side, and the third version is a long midi skirt with a slit and an elasticated waist. So if you think about it this skirt is perfect for someone who is a beginner starting out with View C with the elasticated waist and when that person feels a lot more confident in their sewing skills (lets face it doing buttonholes its like skydiving, you don’t know how its going to go until you do it) they can try both View A or B with the slit and the buttons.

The skirt features hem and slit facings, which is perfect when doing hems. I appreciate this on Chalk and Notch’s pattern…. the Max Tee is the same way. Do you despise hems as much as I do? Well, this skirt takes the seam gauge time out of your life because you can cut the skirt to whatever length you want and then you can add in the hem facings. Keep in mind that Chalk and Notch’s patterns are drafted for someone who is 5’-7” tall therefore you will have to adjust the length based on your height. The pattern does have a “lengthen or shorten” here line so you can adjust as you see fit.

One thing to note, and that many in the testing group. mentioned, you must pick your fabric wisely between the skirts with the side buttons vs. the elasticated version… sizing selected will change based on which version you are making.

I used a size 16 for View A and used a chambray fabric and a size 18 for the elasticated version as I wanted to make sure I can get it pass my hips and preferred to use a rayon challis for lots of drape and to make sure there is no bulk at the elasticated waist. I was able to use less than the required amount of fabric.

I was only required to make one version of the three, I’m glad I made two because I’m happy with both of them and I can easily see myself making a version of the shorter skirt in a stretch denim.

Don’t pass up on this pattern! As my mom would say “its the three for one” deal. Chalk and Notch can draft some great patterns! Chalk and Notch has a sale for this pattern going on until May 18th, 2022

Alexandra Masson 5/11/22 Alexandra Masson 5/11/22

May Sewing Plans 2022

We are onto our second week of May and it seems the spring weather is finally making an appearance by me in the Midwest. Which only means I want to make sure that I have a few items that I can wear again and again and again for the warmer days. Here is what I have planned.

Mixing a little bit of Indie Patterns with the Big Four Patterns and as part of one of my goals, trying not to get ahead of myself as I’m also doing some pattern testing in between all of these.

DP Studio Le 4004 - This pattern has been staring at me for a good month or two. Perhaps the crappy weather was just stopping me in my tracks. I had mentioned I had gotten this download off their website, DP Studio is a French company and I love Bias Cut skirts. This just has a tad more of a fun play with the pattern pieces and half of an elasticated waist.. But I will be making a muslin of it to make sure the fabric doesn’t get completely distorted with time as they are all cut on the bias, and my fabric is linen, and we know this stretches with wear.. The Instructions are in English, but let’s just say they not the best, but I can understand them and know what I need to do.

I got this beautiful striped fabric from Style Maker Fabrics. It is a tad sheer so I will have to line it with voile. It’s such a funny story how I got it because I was just about to purchase it and as usual, it sold out (of course it did!). I sent an email asking if they would re-stock it and they said yes we will restock it (and honestly I don’t know if they have with all these supply chain issues) but they did say that they had 2 - 3/4 yards of it in the remnants they haven’t listed… and if I wanted them, they could invoice me. Hmmm yes! So needless to say I’m glad I was able to grab them. I believe you can also find this fabric at Fabric.com or something pretty darn close they have other color ways too but I loved the one from Style Maker Fabrics with the blues, light aquas, greens and pops of yellow. its perfect.

DP Studio - Le 4004 Bias Cut Skirt Line Drawings

Blooma Tanks and Max Tee - I talked about being in the hunt for tanks tops, its one of those things I don’t even THINK about making because they are so inexpensive… but not any more! At $30 a pop that’s not in the budget when I can make something for a lot less using patterns and 1 yard of fabric. Or hack the living daylights out of it…. that Max Tee can be hacked into a long dress, a v-neck top (heck out the picture below from Banana Republic). It’s a great pattern and a tried and true. The budget for a tank top is $18 with pattern and fabric included. I made a video last week, and I gave you lots of options for tank tops. So that $18 is a pretty darn good budget. You can splurge on your fabric if you use a Big Four pattern.

I will be using remnants and leftover fabric that I have around here… or reusing knit dresses that I know I will not use…. Remember that Tilly and the Buttons Dress that didn’t have quite the outcome I was expecting…. yeahhh! Back to the drawing board, that fabric is too good to go to waste.

Vogue's V1859- It is a long dress with shorter sleeves (I may be extending those just a touch), but first I have to do a muslin on this one to make sure I like the fit and how it looks. I have been looking for fabric for this pattern for quite some time. Ever since it came out. Would love to find some of Rachel Comey’s dead stock fabric but alas it might not be meant to be (right now!) maybe later on I will find it.

I got this fabric from fabric.com, it is a Cambray Herringbone in a coral hue, would love for it to be darker but its lightweight enough for the summer and 100% cotton and right now I want to make sure it doesn’t get too hot for the summer.

And that’s it for this month. If I get to it I will make a pair of Lander Shorts by True Bias, but let’s not get ahead of myself. I already have a pair of Dani Shorts from True Bias and a pair of Pietra Pants from Closet Core Patterns. I have this navy blue stretch twill remnant that has been in my stash for a good 2 years. I downloaded the pattern and lets see if I get to it. There is no such things as too many shorts, especially when the weather is about to turn hot on you, like it always does. I suppose that’s why they call it summer after all.