Pattern Review Vogue V1711 Rachel Comey Coat
Vogue V1711 is inspired on Rachel Comey’s Jaunt Coat. It is still a popular garment on her ready to wear website. It’s available in several colors and different substrates. Suffice to say, although it is not a quick garment to make the instructions are excellent and it’s a very well drafted pattern.
Click on the image above for Pattern Review Video on Vogue V1711
Pattern Description: Vogue V1711 is an oversized lined coat with raglan sleeves, welt pockets, rib cuffs and front zipper. It is based on Rachel Comey’s popular Jaunt Coat. Most of her outerwear is oversized and this pattern is no exception.
Rachel Comey Jaunt Coat
Pattern Sizing: Pattern sizing goes from XS to XXL. Did I mention the pattern is oversized? It is way oversized. Based on my measurements the pattern would have put me at the largest size. Looking at the finished garment measurements on the tissue I decided to cut a size Medium. That is three sizes down and I’m so glad I did. I usually fit coats with a heavy sweater under it (or two layers of knit fabric… think long sleeve t-shirt and a cardigan) as thats how I’m going to be wearing it. This was no exception. Even while going with a few sizes down I still have plenty of room under the coat while zipped up to move my arms, sit and move comfortably under it.
Did it look like the photo / Pattern Drawing: Yes, it looks exactly like the picture on the pattern. I would love to find the fabric that is shown on the pattern or on the websites but I suspect I will have to wait a few years for deadstock if it ever becomes available. It is also available in a Pink Herringbone fabric with a lambswool collar. That would be dreamy.
Were the Instructions Easy to Follow: Yes for the most part. The only spot I found that was tricky was adding the rib knit cuffs and the cuffs facing. This is not quite correctly illustrated on the pattern but I was able to figure it out. Or at least I think I did!
What did you like or dislike about this pattern: I didn’t like that I had to cut a two way separating zipper for this pattern. I’m not quite 100% happy with this area of the coat, but I will get over it. If I ever make it again, I have to pre order the zipper from a trim company OR get the right tools so I can add a metal stopper to a cut zipper. Also, you can tell from the pattern pictures and pieces the collar is meant to be made in a lambswool, faux fur or sherpa like fabric. So that is another alteration that may have to be made to the pattern pieces so they fit correctly if you are NOT using a contrasting fabric for the collar.
The pattern includes welt pockets that sit higher and rib knit cuffs with cuff facings
Fabric Used: I used a deadstock Merchant and Mills Plaid Wool. It was not the easiest fabric to match or work with as it frayed a lot. I can’t quite explain it but it was a mixture of soft thick wool with a loose weave. The weave also had metallic thread running thru it which also made it a tad challenging to cut. With all that being said it is beautiful fabric and I’m glad I powered thru with it. My sleeves are not quite matched because I didn’t have enough fabric but to be honest it would take five minutes of looking at it with a trained eye to tell I wasn’t able to match it (blame it on I didn’t get enough fabric)…. and honestly, I don’t care! The fabric is busy enough with the colors that it’s somewhat hard to tell. I used a Helmut Lang Black Cupro Twill Lining (it is now sold out) from Mood Fabrics and Black Rib Knit from Joann’s.
Pattern Alterations or any other design changes you made: Although I went down three sizes I had to take in the raglan sleeves in the front and back seams a LOT! I had to grade from the center of the seam towards the shoulder seams as I had a lot of fabric in this one location. Almost 1- 1/2” in addition to the 5/8” seam allowance as there was so much fabric there. Even after I did this I still have full range of motion on my arms. Which is great!
I also had to add in two neck darts on the back of the neckline so the back piece hugged my neck and also the shoulder seams were right on the middle of the shoulders. I suspect if I try using the fabric shown on the front cover of the pattern that might be something I wouldn’t have to do. Lastly, I would have also done away with the center seam on the back piece but I kept it thinking that I may need it later on to do alterations to it so I kept it. Next time it will be gone.
Vogue 1711 - Sleeve Pattern (Notice the dart AND the pleat)
That middle seam will be gone next time. I didn’t need to use it to fit the coat. When I cut my lining I just took out the seam allowance and cut it on the fold.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others ? Yes, I would sew it again but I would use a wool fabric that requires no pattern matching and find a zipper that fits to a T so I wouldn’t have to cut it, That pattern matching alone took me forever to cut and match. I would highly recommend this pattern to someone that is looking to level up their coat making game or a project that will take between 1 to 3 weeks depending on their skill level. There was some hand sewing included in this pattern too. It took me about three weeks and I sew at a turtle-on-crutches pace as I don’t like using my seam ripper unless its to take out basting stitches.
Inside of the collar - Vogue V1711
Conclusion: Makers beware! This pattern is oversized so perhaps tissue fit and go a few sizes down. It’s an enjoyable sew with great details such as welt pockets, rib knit cuffs, lining, oversized collar and a zipper guard facing. Instructions are great and it is truly a well drafted pattern by Rachel Comey.
I also want to add, Vogue V1711 JUST came out of print at the time I’m writing this review. I’m sure you are able to still find it around retail stores. If you can find it, grab it and sew it. You will not be disappointed.
