Indie Sewing Pattern Haul
Click the picture above for a YouTube Video
I haven’t been purchasing a whole lot of patterns these days. Mostly because I have been coding! And I got some good news on that end, I released my first iOS App ever. It’s called Tip or Discount Calculator and I hope you go check it out and download it.
My first app! Ever, available now for iPhone and iPads on
the App Store. Please check it out and consider getting it, its quite useful.
Back to sewing patterns…. Unless I know I will make it or need it I don’t go buying it. Since I’m spending a good part of my days coding that has been the case as I am sewing, but not as much as I would like to do… but I’m still sewing and posting sew alongs but I wanted to tell you what I’ve been getting as far as patterns go.
Here is what I have purchased so far.
Brynn Dress and Cardigan from True Bias - I have been looking for a cardigan with out a dropped shoulder for quite some time, and when this was released I got it right away. It has quite a few different views as a vest, a cardigan and a button down dress. Double Bonus, it has a v-neckline. I may have to raise that an inch or two but that is fairly easy to do.
Harper Cardigan and Duster from Sinclair Patterns - Look at the info above, the wonderful ladies at Sewing Pattern Review recommended this pattern. It is actually free and my first time downloading a pattern from Sinclair. It is actually really well drafted, it does not have any button though so you have to keep that in mind to interface the neckband. I actually made it but I don’t think I loved the fabric I used so I let it go.
The Reyas Shorts and Trousers pattern from Chalk and Notch - So I actually was a tester for this pattern and I’m glad I did. Chalk and Notch does an amazing job with their patterns and really take testers recommendations into account. I always make two … one is a toile so I can test fit and the second one is my actual pair. This is a really nice pattern and I highly recommend it. It is meant for woven fabrics but a few testers made it in a knit and as someone who sews a lot with knits, that works too.
The Violet Top from Bella Loves Patterns - I’m always impressed with the pictures of her patterns on Instagram and her process. I have been looking for something similar from the Big Four but I haven’t quite found something that I liked or that I can hack into a dress, so looking forward to making this knit top which I can see a lot of potential.
Aurea Dress from Bella Loves Patterns - I’m a sucker for these types of button down dress patterns with a pointed shirt collar. It is made for woven fabrics and I love that it has side inseam pockets, a slightly curved hem and also patch pockets that are not your typical ginourmous squares.
Shian Puffer Vest from VikiSews - I will be honest I don’t love wearing all the puffy jackets with the scarf, gloves and going in and out of stores. I think it’s one of those things I despise about the winter. How much clothes you gotta wear to stay warm. Remember I live in Chicago, we don’t play around here with cute coats come January. We bundle up! I recently made a Burda pattern last year and I loved it but the pattern has a weird way of wearing a hood so I love this pattern from VikiSews has a removable hood. Thinking of adding in a faux fur trim for the hood to catch the snow. This is an advanced pattern because the instructions show you how to quilt fabric. The fabric I have for this is already quilted but absolutely perfect for this.
Mathias dress from VikiSews - Semi Fitted long dress that flares out. I got plenty of linen fabrics around here that I can make this. And I know some people get upset that I get things from VikiSews (I will say no business is perfect and if every one of them aligned with my views I would never buy a thing) anyhow their instructions and finishes are outstanding so its on the list of patterns to make.
Paynter Pattern from Merchant and Mills - so I got this pattern on a whim, but I will say this I love boxy jackets for the fall that you can make in different fabrics like twill, denim, suede and this pattern is a Unisex Pattern. I have had to do a few adjustments. Mostly in length so it’s not so long but I got the printed version of this pattern that includes two labels. If you have never heard of the Paynter company I highly suggest you check them out. They release a very small amount of high quality jackets/coats thru out the year and they sell out in less than five minutes. They are very focused on not mass producing their jackets to the point they number them so almost like couture where you get a label with a number! They are kind enough to collaborate with Merchant and Mills on this pattern. This is another intermediate, advanced pattern mostly because the front pockets are not for the faint of heart but the rest is fairly easy.
Fiske Sleepwear set from Cashmerette - They were kind enough to share this pattern with me as part of their Cashmerette Club program and I’m rather excited about it because I would really like to make some PJ’s for the holidays. You get a lot of views with this pattern. You get a nightgown, a camisole, traditional piped PJ’s and a nightshirt. Although I have to do an SBA adjustment for myself the patterns fit my daughter beautifully.
Geneva Blouse from Liesel and Co. - This is a v - neck blouse to be used for woven fabrics but I really like that I get different cup sizes and I love the sleeves on this. Can’t wait to make it. I have plenty of fabric that I can use with this pattern.
Sew Along for M8343
Step by Step sewing tutorial for sewing pattern McCalls M8343
Click on the image above for a YouTube video with a step by step sewing tutorial for M8343.
This is a great pattern if you are looking for a confident beginner pattern using knits. You will learn how to insert a regular zipper, how to slip stitch, attach a sleeve, a sleeve cuff and a hem band along as sewing a knit top.
Adjustments I made….
I raised the neckline around 1 to 1 1/2” in doing so I also had to adjust the facings for this area.
The pattern calls for a 12” zipper, if you keep the length on the pattern as is perhaps you may need a longer zipper so something to keep in mind or your 12” zipper may just be the correct length.
I added knit interfacing to area where I was going to stitch the zipper to give this area a little bit of stability and making sure it didn’t stretch.
I took around 1” off the length as I felt it was too long PLUS I was adding a hem band so had I kept the length it would have been way too long.
The fabric I used is a sweatshirt fleece from Salt Lake Sewciety. It was a remnant I purchased a few months ago so I suspect they no longer carry it. It is very nice and warm and a great fabric for this, just keep the “weight” of the fabric into account when you are picking measurements.
Sew Along for True Bias - Lodo Dress
Click on the image above for a sew along for True Bias Lodo Dress
The only modification I made to this pattern is
I cut the back piece on the fold (also removed the seam allowance) so it is all one piece in the back.
Use mid weight to heavier knits for this pattern. So think ponte, double brushed knit or even scuba fabric will work well.
This was a quick sew. I used a Ponte Fabric from Fabric Wholesale Direct. You can find the same fabric here.
Fall Sewing Plans 2024
I have slowed down quite a bit when it comes to sewing this past summer. I did quite a bit of sewing before I went on vacation and after that I have taken a break from it all. I made around 10 garments in one week right before vacation and I wanted a break from it all. Decided to focus on the kids right before school started and also have been clamping down on buying new fabric, which so far I can say I have been really good!!!!
Anyhow, I thought I would do a fall sewing plan so you get an idea as to where I’m hoping to accomplish in the next couple of months. I have been really hyper focused on making things that I will actually wear more than once and are functional to my every day life.
So here is what I’m hoping to make, also hoping to work on sew alongs for all of these in case you want to get in on the fun!
Lodo Dress from True Bias with Ponte Knit in Wine color from Fabric Warehouse Direct.
Wine Ponte De Roma Fabric from Fabric Warehouse Direct
2. Merchant and Mills - Ottoline Jacket with Satin Stretch Indigo Denim (8 oz) I’ve had this pattern for a while and these two garments will make really nice transitional pieces from summer to fall.
Satin Stretch Denim 8.5 oz
3. Donna Cardigan from FiberMood - Everything is leopard these days at least for fall, and many call it a neutral so might as well get in on the bandwagon because I can wear it with quite a few things. This is a ponte and it has been part of my stash for quite some time, so it’s time to use it. I got it from Vogue Fabrics but they sell a lot of deadstock fabric so I’m sorry I don’t have a fabric link for you!
Leopard Print Knit.- I think it is a very light weight ponte! But don't quote me on that.
4. Lander Pants with the Zipper Expansion from True Bias. They now have an extended version so I thought it would be fun to make a pair in corduroy as I donated my last pair (it was too big.. woo hoo!). Fabric is from Style Makers Fabric and it is now sold out as it is a year old! But I’m sure you can find corduroy anywhere.
Needlecord Stretch Corduroy
5. Fall viscose fabric from Art Gallery Fabrics - here is another one that has been on my stash waiting for the day I make it. I got it from Style Maker Fabrics white some time ago… almost TWO years ago. I need your help on which one we will do for a sew along.
What do you think? Do we make the new V2044 or V9100? I'm leaning towards the V9100 as I know I would wear it a lot more with a sweater over it, with that Ottoline Jacket or perhaps on its own.
Ten tips for sewing swimwear
So it’s that time of the year and you are looking to make your own swimsuit. Fair enough, I just made mine for the season and I thought we should talk about a few things before embarking on making your first or this season’s swimsuit.
Not all fabrics are created equal - What do I mean by that? Some swimsuit fabrics are easier to work with than others. Some fabrics are a little more “stable” aka thicker than a swimsuit fabric that is a little thinner which also makes it a little harder to work with, slippery on the sewing machine. So get some samples and choose wisely based on your pattern.
2. While we are in the topic of fabrics let’s talk about linings - Are you looking to get a little support while wearing your swimsuit? This is the best place to use a lining fabric with a little bit more support to keep that bust tucked in. Stick with high compression swimsuit lining fabric if you want more support, Don’t need as much support then opt for regular swim Lining.
3. Choose the right elastic - Ever wonder why your ready to wear swimsuit goes kaput after one year? They use regular elastic. Stick with cotton swimwear elastic or rubber elastic. It is made so it holds better against chlorine and salt water.
4. Cut on the crossgrain - You are using a knit so you will be taking advantage of that largest amount of stretch. In a knit that happens on the crossgrain. So pay attention to that grainline shown on the pattern and keep that in mind if you are selecting a printed swim fabric.
5. Baste to fit - It is okay to baste your main fabric to make sure you have the right fit. Baste the sides first, and make those straight stitches (ONLY FOR BASTING) so they are easier to remove if you need to let your swimsuit out or take it in.
6. Use a zig zag stitch - When in doubt use a zig zag stitch, you can use a lightning bolt stitch or a regular zig zag stitch. Your fabric will stretch and a straight stitch will pop. You can however use a double needle or a cover stitch to finish your garment for a professional top stitched look so if you are able to do this I highly recommend it.
7. Use stretch needles needles - You are sewing with a knit fabric and a fresh stretch needle on your sewing machine will keep avoid skipped stitches.
8. Use a rotary cutter - Swimwear fabrics tend to be slippery so using a rotary cutter is a good way to cut your fabric.
9. Try your best NOT to stretch your fabric and use fabric clips. You will be stretching your elastic but very little almost slightly, you dont’ want to end with any ripples in your fabric. So avoid stretching it. Use a fabric clip like these Clover clips. Perfect for sewing with slippery swimwear fabric.
10. Double bonus…. it uses very little fabric AND my favorite don’t even bother with the iron. You will not be ironing at all. So don’t even turn it on as ironing will damage your fabric.
Patterns that you can use with 1 yard of fabric - Part 2
Remant lovers unite!!!!
So last year I did a video on patterns that you can make using one yard of fabric. Yes it’s taken an entire year because guess what? Nobody is whooping out a 40” long wool coat with one yard of fabric, that kind of stuff is not happening but it’s summer we agreed on some parameters…
We are using a size 18 to 20, because that’s what I fit into and patterns vary depending on the block. We are looking at both Big four patterns and a few Indies.
Our fabric has to be 57 to 60” (150cm) wide by 36” (91cm) long (that’s a yard folks!)
We are not taking into account stripes, designs, and we sure as heck not matching any prints.
Patterns
The Franklin T-Shirt from The Pattern Line - A T-shirt? YES! Hear me out. This t shirt has a relaxed boxy feel, has a back seam (no side seams), and the finishes inside are off the charts as the shoulders and back seam are using French seams and you also have a back of the neck tape for a really nice finish. If you want to elevate the look of your t-Shirts this is a great pattern. Heads up it comes up to size 18 but you can adjust it (although I wear size 20) and I have plenty of ease due to the fit.
Pompom Waist Coat Pattern by Maison Fauve - Double Bonus it is free! Although you will need lining fabric for this one you can make this in cotton, linen or even jacquard. It is labeled as an intermediate pattern and they also have a tutorial online on YouTube that you can access thru their website. You don’t speak French, remember you can always ask YouTube to auto translate the captions. Looking for a Big 4 pattern that is similar? B6901 from Lisette.
.Pompom Waist Coat Pattern by Maison Fauve - Double Bonus it is free! Although you will need lining fabric for this one you can make this in cotton, linen or even jacquard. It is labeled as an intermediate pattern and they also have a tutorial online on YouTube that you can access thru their website. You don’t speak French, remember you can always ask YouTube to auto translate the captions. Looking for a Big 4 pattern that is similar? B6901 from Lisette.
Talking about waist coat or vests I always think these would look great with a pair of trousers BUT remember we only have one yard of fabric and summer is just around the corner so lets talk about shorts to go with these.
Here are a few options: Closet Core Patterns - Pietra Pants, Butterick B6901 View C. It says you need 1- 1/4 yards or 1-1/8 yard but ask me how I know you can make these with a yard of fabric?! Yes. OR you can also make the Tammy Shorts from VikiSews won’t quite go with the Waist Coat Pattern but it will be perfect for summer.
Max Tee from Chalk and Notch - This is a really nice boxy tee shirt with hem, armhole and neck facings. I used a heavy ponte to make mine a while back (and I raised the armhole) but you can use 1 yard of fabric for this one. Instructions are great and so are the finishes on this pattern.
Swimsuits - Most one piece swimsuit patterns will require one year of fabric. A few examples M8329 (View D) or my favorite B4526 which is infinitely hackable.
Tiered Skirts - Mave Skirt from True Bias (there is a hack online where you can make the skirt with 1 yard of fabric), I made mine so it was just past my knees (and not Maxi as shown in the blog) and also Burda B6116 view B… you can extend the width a little and make a tiered skirt.
Sports Bras - I could use a few of these and perhaps I may start working on some of them because I have some fabric around here that could be used for this. Try S8560 , double bonus it includes a few different cup sizes.
Hysope Blouse Pattern from Deer and Doe - Great crop top that you can wear with shorts, skirt or trousers. The description says it’s perfect for hot summer days and I can’t argue with that. It has two views, you will be able to make the 1 yard top with view A, view B takes a little more fabric.
Honorable Mentions - Simplicity S9965 It says it’s a one yard top…. it goes up to size 16 and that’s it. Guess what? I’m going to try them because I love view 1 with the rick rack trim AND S9967 loving view 1 this one goes up to size 14 (sacrilege! surprised they didn’t expand these most likely because they say they are one yard tops…. I know better)
Spring Summer 2024 Sewing Plans
A quick video on my spring summer sewing plans that includes a hoodie, swimsuit, t-shirts and a wrap dress.
How to use a snap press
Click on the image above for a step by step video on how to use a sewing snap press.
I recently got a snap press and what you hear from everyone is it does take a little bit of getting used to and learning how to use it. There is no doubt about this one, it does have its learning curve. But I hope this blog post and video makes things easier.
This is the snap press I purchased. It comes with four different dies in addition to the snap press. Make sure (super important!!!) that your snap press comes with dies. If it doesn’t, guess what? You will have to buy them separately and they are sized in quite a few sized based on what you are trying to do. So pay attention to this. I’m using the 15mm dies.
For the snaps, I’m using Dritz 15mm heavy duty snaps. Again, pay attention to the size of the snaps. They come in different sizes… 10mm, 12mm and 15mm. Plus you can do many other things with this snap press like attach pearls but we will get to that at another time.
You have a top and a bottom dies for both the male and the female snap parts. I went ahead and took a picture of what they look like and the corresponding part with the die.
Before you begin setting these make sure that your fabric is reinforced with interfacing. VERY important you do that or eventually your fabric will fail. So make sure to reinforce your fabric. Second make sure to mark where they will go on your garment and make a hole with a fabric hole puncher.
What I’ve been up to!
I have been MIA around here and I have to say I’ve been doing a little bit of everything. Sewing, coding, pattern testing, finally figuring out the cricut, buying a new sewing machine and also fitting pants. Y’all know fitting pants its like torture highway and that’s usually after a good dose of patience pills.
But it’s honest to God the truth. Really trying SUPER Duper hard not to buy fabric which you know it’s hard with the sales or Mood Fabrics sending you subliminal messages on Instagram on that Viscose that you’ve been eyeballing but that thankfully is out of stock.
Anyhow, I did do some pattern testing for the wonderful Gabriela at Chalk and Notch. I worked on The Den Jacket which I have to say I highly HIGHLY recommend it. I did a toile which I always do for pattern testing and discovered that I needed to go a size up as the pattern suggested. But other than that, there were NO modifications to this pattern. It was perfect as is, which is usually shocking to me that I don’t have to make one or five adjustments. So needless to say I highly recommend it.
The Den Jacket - Chalk and Notch
I did do pattern testing for another company and the pattern was great it is just not my style with the dropped shoulders. I have just learned that style is not for me and my juicy arms.
I also mentioned I have been coding and I told you I started that journey in April of 2023 learning the Swift Coding language which is what Apple Computers uses for their devices so I’ve been doing that quite a bit. I code for at least one to three hours a day, and that takes a good portion of my day. AND keep in mind that I’m self taught so there are some things that come pretty easily and others that I struggle. From what I’ve been told that is normal when coding so I have to say it’s no different than when you are learning something new or having to figure out something on your own. Kinda like figuring out the difference between and upper collar and an under collar if you have just started sewing. My goal is to release an app and I’m currently working on it. I have no date but I do have a goal to get it released as soon as possible.
I also went on the hunt for another sewing machine, and I’m the proud owner of a Juki TL-18 QVP Haruka sewing machine! I wanted something that can go thru denim, thicker twill and faux suede. I’ve been meaning to do some garments with heavier fabric and I just knew my little Bernette was just not quite up to the task. I will not be retiring it (at least not just yet!). The Juki is a straight stitch machine, that’s all it does but it is made of metal and quite powerful! So happy about that.
Lastly I have been fitting pants. I worked on the Isle Jeans from Chalk and Notch, great pattern. But I took two inches off the rise and it was an inch too much! I also don’t love the front pockets so I will be doing something different there which means I have to re-draft that and perhaps use pork chop pockets (is that what those are called?!) yes will be doing that. I already got fabric and perhaps while I’m trying that try to tackle the Ginger Flare jeans from Closet Core.
Talking about Closet Core I bought the Onyx pants (nobody come at me judging me!) I said one of the goals was not to buy patterns. I’m trying but that one had a countdown clock on it since it’s sold only for that one month (and this girl is not going to sign up for the one year membership any time soon). Anyhow, it is stretch pants and I desperately need those. So I have to say I’m glad I got it, I made a pair and I’m in love with these pants. I used a ponte fabric for them. I will be making another pair soon.
Onyx Pants - Closet Core Patterns
One thing I miss is doing the sew alongs. This was usually the time of the year that I did these sew alongs for Minerva and I didn’t realize how much I would miss it. They are not something that people watch right away but people do watch them quite a bit over time when they are trying to make something and they need a little extra help. But I wanted to ask… what sew along would you like to see first. Let me show you the choices….
V1966 - Vintage Vogue Pattern
Burda Coat Pattern - Burda 5869
Isle Jeans - Chalk and Notch
So taking votes what would you like to see first. So tell me what sew along would you like to see and also… what have you been up to?!
Sewing Goals for 2024
It was nice to take a break from YouTube for a while and just focus on family and my goals for sewing and life in this new year. That holiday period is always a good time to slow down, take stock of what work and what didn’t work and focus on new goals. That is exactly what I did, and I actually did a LOT of sewing. I sewed a pair of Hudson pants (which I adjusted a ALOT as I wanted a different view) and I worked on making a lot of t-shirts in addition to testing a pattern for an indie pattern company.
Sewing Goals for the year….
Use my pattern stash. It’s a good pattern stash and also curate / get rid of the patterns that have no snowball chance of being made.
Post more sew alongs in the channel. Last year I was working on Sew Alongs for Minerva (who I love) but I think that doing six in a row did burned me out to a crisp when it came to sew alongs. It would be nice to do some sew alongs for the channel but also try to tackle some of those harder patterns like those Vogue or Burda patterns.
Mending, adjust or upcycle some of the garments I have made. Some things need to get adjusted as I have changed in size and I must say I love some of the fabrics I’ve used so I really want to try my best to use what I have vs. make more. Or perhaps rework some of my husband dress shirts into a shirt for me, the fabrics are amazing and I know I can make a button down shirt for myself with them vs. tossing them.
Post more of my makes for the month. Even if it’s three things! I want to post more.
So what are your sewing goals for the year? Is it to do a better job with finishes? Tackle a lined coat pattern? Get better at fitting? So many things to improve don’t try to do them all, just pick one or two and focus on that.
Cheers to the new year!
Holiday Party Patterns
If you are like me and like to sew for the occasion and the occasion is a holiday party in lets say two weeks then I thought it would be good to perhaps show you all about some holiday party patterns that can use to create a festive outfit for the holidays and perhaps think of a few different fabrics that we usually don’t normally use like velvet or perhaps even sequins and pair it with a pattern. So here we go, here are a few!
McCall’s M8142 - Knit pull on dress with two bodices and skirt variations plus sleeve. I have seen two people do these on Instagram. One person did it in a shimmery fabric and another person made this pattern in a mid weight red knit. BOTH looked absolutely amazing. Pattern says that you can make this in a velvet knit and novelty knits (aka… sequins). You will need a lining if you are making a dress with a sequins fabric especially if you want to be comfortable as most sequin fabric comes in a mesh.
2. Vogue V1842 - I thought this was a great dress. This is a fitted dress with a sweet heart neckline and a bias cut slip dress. The bust has gathers along with narrow facings and an invisible back zipper. Fabrics suggested are Crepe Back Satin (and I would recommend that for this dress), Jacquard and Rayon Velvet. I think this would look stunning with rayon velvet but I would prefer crepe back satin for it so it has a really pretty flow to it, plus it has that gorgeous bias cut skirt so it will hug your curves.
3. Vogue V1841- LOVE this pattern, I Have it. And you will get a couple of laughs because it has some unfinished pattern business going on in it so if you ever get it, get ready to laugh. Anyhow, it is a full sequins dress. But look at the bishop sleeves with a cuff and buttons. It is stunning and double bonus which I always think thank goodness… it has different cup sizes included!
4. Vogue V1674 - Lined close fitting dress with invisible side zipper and bodice variations. This is the pattern that keeps on giving. You have quite a few views in there. You can make this in stretch velvet, sequins as long as it stretches or a beautiful double knit … if you use a knit I would suggest one with a print in it. If you are worried about looking slim, just line it with compression lining fabric. Mood has it, Joann’s has it. Great pattern and you can even show a little skin BUT still have sleeves which is perfect if it gets cold where you are located.
5. McCalls M8037 - Pull over…Evening or ankle length dress with a plunging neckline for all of you that like a little bit of cleavage, nothing wrong with that, it’s not for me but perhaps you want something a little edgy this time around. This dress is designed for knits, velvet knit, novelty knits and even interlock jersey (which I thought it was interesting).
6. Simplicity S9476 - Sweetheart neckline in two different lengths. I LOVE this pattern because it has princess seams, if you are would rather cover your arms you have a flutter sleeve which is adorable and also have a deep V neck opening. If you rather not show so much cleavage you can always raise your neckline. It’s an easy thing to do and of course you would have to redraft your facing but again…. an easy thing to do. I thought this is a beautiful dress. Saw something similar at Banana Republic over the weekend in a beautiful brocade fabric. If you like a little give in your fabric like my daughter you can also make this one in a double knit, a Ponte (pick something with a print) and you could potentially also do away with the back zipper if you did a knit. View C has an overlay which is what the cover model is wearing. This pattern goes up to size 32W.
7. McCall’s M8021 - This pattern is now out of print but this pattern is for sequins. You can get the PDF thru the Simplicity.com website OR perhaps find it in the drawers I know some times I find patterns that haven’t been discarded and you find them there as a printed pattern. Loose fitting, wrap dress with snap closures and side seam pockets. The pattern says you have three different views with sleeveless, long sleeves or contrasting fabric but, lets face it, you got only two views. An indie pattern to try is the VikiSews Philippa Dress. Sized from 34 to 52.
8. Iman Jumpsuit from VikiSews - This is a semi fitted jumpsuit with a wrap style bodice and elastic at the waist. Suggested fabric is sequin fabric with a knit backing and you will need to line this and they recommend a knit mesh for that too. I’m thinking that a stretch shimmer fabric would also work with this if you are like I don’t want to deal with sequins.
9. Flavia Dress from Tiki Sews. Bias Cut Dress with an accentuated waist and loose fitting bodice with gathers along the waist seam. It does have a back keyhole opening and full grown on sleeves with gathered narrow cuffs, thankfully those do not have elastic because if I did I would change them in a heart beat. The dress also features has a high front slit which I would most likely lower to 2” above my knees. They recommend silk, viscose, satin or challis. If working with silk seems daunting (or you don’t have the budget for it) to you just use a crepe backed satin or even challis.
10. Lourdes from Viki Sews This is a close fitting, lingerie inspired dress with a boned corset bodice and separate bra cups. It is rated difficult and if you are wearing this for a new years eve party my suggestion to you is… start now! How fun is this dress. The dress is made up of two types of fabric. Inner layer is mesh and the overlay is tulle and it is ruched along the edges. It also has faux plackets with grommets for a laced front which remember you can buy grommets tape! This has an invisible zipper on in the center back seam.
Sew Along for McCall’s M8240
Click on the image above for a step by step sew along for M8240.
M8240 is a knit top with three different views, the views include a collar, placket, sleeve cuffs and a lower band. I made mine using a double brushed knit from Joann’s called Coconut Milk.
It is a fairly straight forward pattern to make just make sure to use a knit with a medium weight for this such as a double knit, sweater knit or even velour. Although I would suggest if you are a beginner stay away from the velour until you feel a lot more confident dealing with knits.
There are some errors on the instructions and a few notches didn’t quite match but nothing major, it is mostly on the collar but if you have sewn a collar before you should be able to tackle it. In addition, don’t forget to add elastic at the shoulders for reinforcement, that should have been mentioned on the pattern, but it is not.
I cut an XLarge size but I could have actually gone one size down! I realize the pattern is meant to have some ease but it still feels somewhat large for me.
Here are some of the adjustments I made:
I raised the placket around 4 inches. I wanted to avoid adding buttons to this and I managed to get away from adding any buttons or snaps!
I took in the sides around 1.5 inches on both sides. Back to that… I could have gone for a smaller size altogether.
I reduced the width of my cuffs by half. The sleeves on this are long so if I went with the cuffs on the usual width I would have reduced the length of the sleeves by an inch.
Next time I’m thinking of shortening the length on the top by around 2 inches.
Would I make it again? Absolutely. It’s a great pattern and it’s ripe for some good ol’ fashioned hacking!
Gifting Ideas for the Holidays
Click on the link above for a YouTube video on Holiday Gift Ideas
So the holiday season kicks off next week and if you are like me always trying to find the perfect gift for a family member or a friend I thought it would be good to give you a few ideas to get your creative juices flowing.
For People who are always cold
Scarf - It gets cold in these parts of the country so the perfect gift for someone who gets cold can be a scarf. You can make a beautiful scarf out of silk fabric (I suggest Mulberry Silk) or you can also do a beautiful scarf out of cashmere / wool fabric. I actually like both! If budget is tight consider an infinity scarf using S8811 made out of Milky Fabric. Or you can go all out and try V9291 with a view C.
Beanie Hat- The Jude Beanie from StayStichPatterns is 50% off for the next 2 weeks! You can download the pattern for $2.50 and make beanies for everyone and better yet you need less than 3/4 of a yard of fabric. This can take you less than 20 minutes including cutting time! Adorn it with a cute appliqué or a pom.
Travel Aficionado
S9872 - Perfect for someone who travels or a makeup bag to put in your purse. Use Simplicity S9872, it’s a great pattern with zipper cases with two views in three different sizes. I have an even better idea get the Wildwood Garden Party Fabric from Rifle Paper and you have a beautiful zipper case that everyone will want this holiday season.
For the Home Gardeners
M8300 - This is a really cute pattern perfect for kids and adults. You get a kerchief in two sizes, an apron, a kneeling pad, outdoor planters and a garden tote.
For People who love to lounge around
Pijamas and Sleepwear - There is an entire section of PJ patterns on Simplicity.com’s website on sleepwear and loungewear. You can make PJ’s for the entire family, onesies using M7518, they even got a onesie for the dog! Bathrobes or even go all out on a nice button down pajamas using B6296.
For People who love to cook but get messy
Aprons - The website also has a plethora of aprons for kids and adults from modern aprons to vintage ones. This is aways a good one for people like me who are always cooking and I cannot even being to tell you the times the spaghetti sauce has gone on the attack.
Kids
Stuffed Animals - There is a whole plethora of patterns for this on the website some beautiful fun patterns for teddy bears, sea creatures to baby Yoda.
Teenagers
Hoodies - Those teenagers cannot have enough hoodies, I know my daughter’s principal told me the high school uniform is a hoodie and a pair of sweats. My how times have changed. If you want to change things up a little I highly recommend the Page Hoodie from Chalk and Notch.
Sling Bags - Perfect when they are out with their friends to the movies anneed a place to pack their phone, wallet or a snack. Use S9508
Get the high end designer look with sewing patterns
Link on the image above for a YouTube video
So I haven’t done one of these posts in a long time, perhaps because they take a considerable amount of time. But after seeing Vogue’s winter collection I thought it was time to take a look at it, and perhaps we may look at a few of the designs from a collection back or two so you can take a second look at some of these… I sure know I did.
Vogue 1957 - Asymmetric ruffled skirt. I’m going to be honest I saw this pattern and I said… NEXT. But if you look at the pattern with a close eye, Carlos the designer at Vogue gives you subtle clues, and it’s up to us to match it. This is an Alexander McQueen Design
You can get the real skirt from this site I looked for it in a couple of website and it’s mostly sold out! But it retails for upwards of $1,000 USD.
Vogue 1984 - Although the previous pattern was ok and didn’t quite catch my eye, this other pattern did because I’ve seen this before. This is Alexander McQueen’s Tuxedo Corset Top. It retails for 3,700 Euros. That’s roughly $3,900 USD dollars (give or take depending on the conversion rate).
I’m still on the fence on this one, because it can be Balmain (actually it looks a lot like Balmain) but it can also be McQueen (maybe because I love McQueen quite a bit too. Although I don’t love the hand gloves included in there. Here is a link to the website. It’s $8000 USD. Woah. That’s quite the corset.
V1988 - Talking about trousers… Carlos was nice enough to get us a pattern for the wide leg trousers so we can match that corset top. Take a look at these beautiful trousers from Alexander McQueen. This is one of those classic trouser patterns and I also think this is a great pattern if you like flat front pants (aka, me!) or if you like pleats in your pants. I’ll be buying these for sure.
V1983 - Beautiful fit and flare dress pattern, love the detail on the sleeves. Not going to lie, it’s’ one of those patterns I dismissed right away because it’s not quite my style, but this is Chanel from their Fall Winter 2023/2024 Collection. The subtle clue… the light blue tweed dress.
Here is the link to this beauty. It retails for $11,800. They style it with a Chanel handbag along with a few tweed camellias
V1992 - Is also a Chanel Inspired with the tweed suit with a longer jacket and skirt. This is Look 16 from the Fall - Winter 2023/2024 collection. This pattern along with the next one. Would make a great wardrobe pattern.
V1993 - Another Chanel inspired pattern from the recent Fall / Winter 2023 - 2024 Collection. This is a cropped fitted jacket with a pair of trousers. This is Look 44 from that Collection…. again that subtle clue the wine colored jacket. There are a few differences like the original designs has two buttons and the pattern has one… easy item to change. Retails for a little bit more than around $7,000 USD.
V1990 - Another Designer inspired coat and this is Valentino. It is a lined coat with peak labels and extended shoulders. I knew I had seen that one before. The clue… the color. Pierpaolo the current designer at Valentino showed an entire collection in this bright pink color. The designer website has this in two colors… fuchsia and black. It retails this for around $6,900. The beauty of this coat is the back detail with the pleats to give it shaping.
V1982 - Fitted lined cape dress. We all know this look because Megan Markle wears this design quite a bit if I may add. It is a Stella McCartney Design. The website shows the white design but the blue is the one worn by Megan. It retails for $2,200 and its mostly sold out or on limited availability.
V1985 - Is also inspired by a few different Chanel Designs from that Fall / Winter Collection.
The balance of the patterns are by the usual designers (Rachel Comey, Marcy Tilton amongst others) but it looks like they added Ron Collins with a few men’s designs which I think its great that he is back! We also got a few vintage reprints which I have to say I’m glad that the Big 4 realize how big is the out of print patterns business.
So what did you all think of this Vogue Collection. Did I change your mind on a few of these designs?
When ordering fabric online doesn’t quite go as planned…
Ordering fabric online is like jumping off an airplane on a parachute or getting married. You don’t know if you are screwed until you do it. Thankfully I’ve done both and those two turned out really well. Ordering fabric online however can be a BIG hit or a costly miss. I know every time we order fabric online it’s like rolling the dice. You don’t know what is going to happen.
I ordered a beautiful fabric from Mood Fabrics (not bashing Mood! I actually love them and order often) a few months back… it’s called Fanciful Fawn. It had everything I wanted… the right price, the right color, the right pattern as I was making a Mave Skirt from True Bias and I even ordered a swatch… trying to make sure that it was exactly what I wanted. The swatch was perfect, but the 2.5 yards that I ordered weren’t quite what I expected.
A comparison between the swatch (right) and the 2.5 yards I ordered (left).
Is it the end of the world? No, I still made a beautiful skirt that I wore throughout summer (quite often I will add), but it's a reminder that some times no matter what ordering fabric online can be a miss…. even when you order a swatch.
Sad beige fabric & how I fixed it
I’m going to tell you a true store and then I’m going to wrap up with what I learned from it.
A few weeks back a fabric store which I had only used once before had a 50% sale, I even checked with the owner to make sure her account wasn’t hacked! Sure enough the sale was real. The first time around I had ordered 1.5 yards of this beautiful Sequoia jersey fabric. It is milled in the US and the quality is outstanding. It is really beautiful. It took 2 weeks to get it, longer than usual but they advertised that they did in fact take between 7 to 10 days to fill in an order and although I like to have my fabric right away I was ok waiting.
The online store had another 50% off sale and I thought to myself well I really would love to order some more things (hello Marlo sweater!!) and the quality was great and what I got was as shown so… I should be ok. This is were today’s title come into play.
I waited a month for my order, they got a lot of orders… I mean hey! Half off sale I’m sure lots of people ordered.
So… I ordered 2.5 yards of “Lilac” French Terry and 1 yard of “Raisin” Rib Knit, couldn’t wait to get my hands on it.
I’m afraid that what I got…. was this:
Which to my eyes is vastly different from what I ordered and was shown online. Hence why I called this title sad beige fabric because it reminds me of those parents that dress their kids in sad beige clothes. Moral of the story when your gut tells you to order a swatch…. ORDER a swatch!
I was a tad disappointed but I really liked the fabric, the quality is quite nice but the color is way off. So I decided to roll up my sleeves and learn about dying fabric. I knew that trying to dye on top of this color was going to result in more brown or darker fabric so I had to remove the color first using Rit Dye Color Remover. I had to do this twice! I ended up with a very light sage color, so it tells me that was the base fabric that was used.
Next I went ahead and used an Eggplant All Purpose Dye because I knew the fabric content was cotton and clearly the little dye they added from the fabric manufacturer didn’t really add in any visible purple / lilac hues. Or they did and it just wasn’t enough. So I was going to have to go with a vivid purple / violet dye. I added salt to the dye bath along with dish washing soap so the fabric absorbed the dye a little more. Ten minutes per garment of stiring hot water with dye…..
It’s not perfect, it’s not the exact color I was looking to get, but I am happy to say I will at least get to use this fabric.
Let me remind you one more time about the moral of this story….. when in doubt, order a swatch! It will save you time, money and disappointment. But not all the time it works out… even when you order a swatch.
How to Add a bias Tape Finish to a Jacket Lining
Click on the image above for a step by step video tutorial on how to add a bias tape finish to a jacket lining.
A quick way to elevate the inside of your jackets, blazers or coats is to add a bias tape finish to the inside of the jacket. You will need
Finish facing for the fronts and also the back facing
Lining Fabric for the sides and back pieces already attached.
4 to 5 yards (on the conservative side) of bias tape. You can make it yourself or you can get it from your local fabric store. I’m using a 1” double fold bias tape, once it is folded it is 1/2”. Have fun with this!
Facing (main fabric on the left), Bias tape 1” (on the middle), lining fabric (on the right hand side)
My pattern seam allowance is 5/8” or 1.5 cm. I’m unfolding my bias tape and sewing on that fold at a seam allowance of 7/8” from the raw edge.
Notice how I sewed on the inside fold at 7/8” from the raw edge.
Now press your extra bias tape fabric towards the raw edge and cut the extra fabric so it matches the raw edge.
Looking at the main fabric from the wrong, side I have a little bit of extra bias tape… cut that so it matches the raw edge.
Now right side of the main fabric (with the bias tape already attached) to the right side of the lining… stitch at 5/8” seam allowance.
Now give it a final press to show the bias tape finish.
Final view with the bias tape finish on the facing (aka the main green fabric) and the lining.
Ten tips for cleaning your sewing and garments stash
1. Donate it. Think Goodwill, Salvation Army or a local women’s shelter.
2. Sell it. Don’t love it anymore for yourself? Sell it at makers resale (instagram), destashify or for fabric / patterns Sewing Pattern Review (but you will need a paid account) or if its a ready to wear item sell it on Poshmark.
3. Mend it. Still love it but haven’t worn it in a while because you are dragging your feet because it’s missing two buttons, and has a hole under the armhole… MEND IT.
4. Refashion it. Case in point I have this knit dress…. the print is a LOT going on. It’s going to be made into a henley top or a Agnes top.
5. Toss it. If it’s past the point of no return aka… holes everywhere, fabric worn to the point of no mending and its’ one wash away from disintegrating. Then it's time to say “adios” and toss it. I usually take a look at the notions… a big one for me it’s buttons. Can’t part ways with nice ones.
6. Adjust it. If it no longer fits because you have gained or lost weight… then adjust it. Especially if it’s a piece you love and left yourself some seam allowance.
7. Store it. If it’s a garment that you will use many times over, still love it but its taking up space in your closet it, then store it in a different area. Perhaps put in there the summer clothes that you know you will not need for the next six months.
8. Organize your already made garments in your closet with things that you know you will wear again and again. For me it’s zip up jackets, leggings and t shirts.
9. Share the love with a sewing friend. You have some fabric that you know a sewing friend would love to have…. give it to them.
10. Organize your fabric stash. I already feel like i have a lot but there are some people that have tubs and tubs and tubs of fabric. Organize it by color, fabric type and season so it serves as a reminder of what you already own… and perhaps serves as a reminder to cool it buying more of what you already have.
Sewing Plans for Fall 2023
Click on the image above for a link to my YouTube Sewing Plans video.
After making the Aster Dress from True Bias I was feeling a little bit burned out from making adjustments and making muslins. My daughter needed a dress for a wedding she was attending so I decided to focus on that, I made a dress using the Donny Shirt Pattern with a hack! It looked beautiful on my daughter. So now looking into fall and what I need while using the patterns and fabrics I have in my stash because hello inflation. I have some great fabrics and some wonderful patterns so I thought perhaps now is the time to make use of all of that.
Starting out with a beautiful Sweatshirt Fleece from Style Maker Fabrics. I’m using JALIE 2795 Zip up jacket. I got the fabric and a little bit of teal twill tape to add around the collar.
Making a fall field jacket with a lightweight plum stretch twill fabric. I will be using Vogue 1966. It is a reproduction from an older pattern. The instructions are the older instructions which is always fun to look at, the pattern is only lined in the front and back yokes along with the sleeves. Everything else is unlined. I may just line this entire jacket and add a pretty trim that I got from Style Maker Fabrics for a little extra fun on the inside.
3. My daughter had seen an ad for Asos for a pair of twill cargo pants. So I was able to get this beautiful light green no stretch twill fabric from Vogue Fabrics. It will be perfect for what we are trying to recreate. We will have to wash it a few times to get that worn fabric look but I’m sure that will happen in no time!
4. Isle Jeans from Chalk and Notch - If you haven’t been to Vogue Fabrics I highly recommend you do. Amongst all the fabric which can be overwhelming at times you can find some beautiful denim fabric at a great price. I’m making the Isle Jeans from Chalk and Notch. I’ve had this pattern now for quite a few months. it’s time to make it. If you don’t have this pattern it is now available in a printed pattern and the sizing goes up to size 30.
5. Knit Dress for fall, I always make one and I decided to dust some of those out of print patterns and find one that will work well with this teal knit fabric from Mood that has been in my stash for quite some time.
Pattern Review - Aster Dress True Bias … plus adjustments
Pattern Description: From the True Bias website “ The Aster Dress features a square cut front and back neckline, as well as squared off armholes. It has angeled French darts and a button back opening. You can make this pattern with or without a lining. I chose to make it without a lining. I can see if I used a nicer fabric or even something slight sheer how nice it is to have a lining in it. Pattern pieces are provided for this which I always appreciate.
Pattern Sizing: The Aster Dress is available in two different size ranges from 0 to 18 usually drafted with a C cup and from 14 to 32 with a D cup. I got the smaller size range as I was thiclose to fitting in the smaller size range (I do, I just wanted to make sure I have enough wearing ease) and I knew I could adjust in a few locations so as to make sure that I didn’t have to do that big of a Small Bust Adjustment.
Did it look like the photo / drawing on the pattern envelopes once you were done sewing with it? It did look like the picture I did however made some adjustments to this pattern and changed the overall look of the armholes.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Instructions were well written, illustrations all made sense, and the pattern is VERY well drafted. Of course there is a sew along on True Bias’ website along with their You Tube channel. A confident beginner can tackle this pattern and also learn a few things such as sewing square necklines (which I love how she asks you to shorten the stitch length about 1” before and after making the corner, cutting into the corner plus they also give you a pattern piece for interfacing for this area), sewing fish eye darts and even a mitered corner for the hem. Love when you can learn new things if you are a confident beginner.
What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern? I overlooked the square armholes when I bought the pattern, it looks beautiful on the models BUT I really didn’t care for the way the toile looked on me, thats when I had to start making all kinds of adjustments to make sure I loved my final garment.
Fabric Used? I used a 100% light sage green linen that had been in my stash for quite some time. I’ll be honest I don’t particularly LOVE linen (it just feels so rough some times) and I also don’t like the “embrace the wrinkles” no matter how many times I iron linen fabric with the hottest setting on my iron before I wash it. I don’t care what people say you looked wrinkled 24/7/365 so essentially all the time!!! So some days I’m not so in love with it but alas, I used linen. Now that I look at it, I’m glad I stucked with it. It is a GREAT transitional from summer to fall garment.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Well, pull up a chair, because there are MANY adjustments that I made to this pattern to give me a little bit more wearing ease but also adjust the armholes to something I would be happy to wear again and again.
This pattern is drafted for a C cup, so I knew that I was going to have to make a SBA on this, but I actually read the pattern instructions which say to double check and make a toile before you embark on a SBA. Sure enough after making my first toile, I didn’t have to do one which was shocking because for True Bias dresses and tops I always (and I mean always) even on knit tops I have to! I also didn’t have to move the bust dart. It is a French angeled dart so I think it’s a really nice feature of this pattern.
I originally told you I was just at the end of the size 18 size range so I knew I would have to add some ease to the bodice to make sure it fit and it wasn’t tight so I added 1/2” to the width of the bodice… but I did this at the center front (vs. the side seams) so I could push the straps towards the sides, ensuring my bra was always covered. So adding it to the front dress pattern piece means I also have to add it to the front facing.
Front dress pattern piece - Can you see the 1/2” added to the center front (right by the “center front fold”)
Look at how that bust dart hits right on the bust and how the armhole fits just right.
Since I added the 1/2” to the front dress piece it meant my straps were going to be angeled in the back so I had to make sure I added 1/2” to the back pattern pieces for the dress AND also the facings.
Notice the location of the added 1/2” as I added it to the front in the center, I had to make sure I added it in the back somewhere close to the center.
I also added length to the pattern. I probably didn’t need it, but I'm glad I did as I can always take it off if I need to do so. That meant I also had to add length to the buttonhole placket pattern piece. There are shorten and lengthen lines in a few spots on the pattern, always so helpful.
I added 3” to the length of the pattern as I wanted to make sure the hem hit right at my knees or just below.
I didn’t care for the square armholes, hello meaty armpits. If you know, you know. It is not flattering and I wanted to make sure that if I’m making a dress, that I wear it. So I had to add curvature to the dress AND the facings. I had just worked on McCalls M8402 and I liked the way the armhole is drafted on this pattern, which lo and behold also had French bust darts. So I took that portion of the pattern and used it to redraft those square armholes.
I used M8402’s front and back facings to give the dress a rounded armhole which fit me a tad better.
Front Facing - See the curved area around the armholes!!! I also added 1/2” to the center front.
I took off almost 3/4” off the length of the straps as I wanted to make sure that my bra was covered at all times, front and back.
I said good bye to those pockets. I didn’t need or want bulk and I rarely use pockets in dresses plus this would have been flapping out there… so “poof” gone!
Some thing to note, which is NOT an adjustment. Whatever buttons you use for this pattern make sure they are flat because they are in the back and you will be sitting on these at some point so you want to avoid any discomfort while seated.
Make sure you use flat buttons for this dress. After all, you will be seating from time to time.
Would you sew it again? I’ll be honest, after making several toiles and making this dress, I’m going to take a break from this pattern for a little bit. I’m glad I did, don’t get me wrong, the pattern is fitted to me and next time I make it, it will be a really quick sew. I can see myself hacking it and moving the button hole placket to the front but like I said, I’m going to take a little break from it and perhaps find a pretty rayon twill, or Liberty print next time I make it OR perhaps something with a really large print.
Would you recommend it to others? It is a lovely design, it is well drafted, it is VERY hackable (you can make a top, you can make a dress, you can hack it with the button holes I the front, you can do a waist length top and add in a peplum with buttons) in that sense, it is a great pattern, but beware if you don’t like to make a lot of adjustments because you are crazy picky about fit like me!
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