Sew Along M6696 - Part 3 The Plackets and Collar
I can see the end of the sewing tunnel, and I’ve been taking my sweet ol’ time with this dress. We can all agree that there is a lot of slipstitch asked of us in this pattern, but luckily you can either grab needle and thread and spend some quality time sewing by hand or you can top stitch. Our final video of this sew along has you making choices (which is really the beauty of sewing your own clothes), do you want to slip stitch or do you want to top stitch.
We ended our last video doing a narrow hem, which I have to say I’m all for tackling those hems early on because I don't like leaving the hem for last. So we are on to the plackets or front bands as they are labeled in the M6696 sewing pattern.
I interfaced only half of my placket pattern pieces as I’m using denim fabric and I want to make sure things don’t get too bulky and stiff. In goes the plackets and yet again I have to grade my seams. If you are using a light weight fabric such as challis or linen. You might not have to do this but since I’m working with denim… I have to grade those seams! Those extra little steps make a huge difference.
Notice how just half of my placket is interfaced, this is to avoid it being too stiff as I’m using denim
Once the plackets are in I can finish off the bottom of the hem which would encase the side seams. This is one thing I love about this pattern. You could potentially French seams the sleeves and the sides and have a dress were you don’t need to use your serger at all, as all your seams would be encased. That’s what I call a beautifully drafted pattern.
So lets move along. You will have to slip stitch or top stitch the plackets to finish them off by stitching in the ditch… I choose to top stitch and they look great!
Use a stitch in the ditch as your “top stitching” for a beautifully finished look in you forgo slip stitching.
I’m thisclose to finishing this dress. Next up is the collar. Always stay stitch that collar area, you will be working in, pinning, easing in the collar and stitching so you want to make sure it doesn’t stretch on you. As always start in the back center and work your way up the sides to the front when you stay stitch.
Collar “sandwiched” in between the collar band
Stitch the collar and “sandwich” the collar between the collar band pattern pieces as I shown in the picture above. I mention in the video that I don’t tend to press in the collar pieces because I want to make sure the collar wraps around my neck. So I usually tend to grab my tailor’s ham and steam the collar/collar band around it so I get that collar stand to lay nicely.
The image on the left is the collar as I’m about to steam it around my tailor’s ham so it curves around my neck nicely, the image on the right is once it is steamed. It stands on its own. It’s ready to attach it to the dress.
Once I do that I stitch in the collar to the dress.
Nothing like a good collar to finish off your dress
Lastly, I stitched in the ditch the collar so I finished attaching it to the dress. One thing to note, I usually slip stitch this part. I always do but today I decided to just go with a quick stitch in the ditch and I’m okay with the way it looks.
The dress is ready for buttons and its done!
