Pattern Review - Aster Dress True Bias … plus adjustments

Pattern Description: From the True Bias website “ The Aster Dress features a square cut front and back neckline, as well as squared off armholes. It has angeled French darts and a button back opening. You can make this pattern with or without a lining. I chose to make it without a lining. I can see if I used a nicer fabric or even something slight sheer how nice it is to have a lining in it. Pattern pieces are provided for this which I always appreciate.

Pattern Sizing: The Aster Dress is available in two different size ranges from 0 to 18 usually drafted with a C cup and from 14 to 32 with a D cup. I got the smaller size range as I was thiclose to fitting in the smaller size range (I do, I just wanted to make sure I have enough wearing ease) and I knew I could adjust in a few locations so as to make sure that I didn’t have to do that big of a Small Bust Adjustment.

Did it look like the photo / drawing on the pattern envelopes once you were done sewing with it? It did look like the picture I did however made some adjustments to this pattern and changed the overall look of the armholes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Instructions were well written, illustrations all made sense, and the pattern is VERY well drafted. Of course there is a sew along on True Bias’ website along with their You Tube channel. A confident beginner can tackle this pattern and also learn a few things such as sewing square necklines (which I love how she asks you to shorten the stitch length about 1” before and after making the corner, cutting into the corner plus they also give you a pattern piece for interfacing for this area), sewing fish eye darts and even a mitered corner for the hem. Love when you can learn new things if you are a confident beginner.

What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern? I overlooked the square armholes when I bought the pattern, it looks beautiful on the models BUT I really didn’t care for the way the toile looked on me, thats when I had to start making all kinds of adjustments to make sure I loved my final garment.

Fabric Used? I used a 100% light sage green linen that had been in my stash for quite some time. I’ll be honest I don’t particularly LOVE linen (it just feels so rough some times) and I also don’t like the “embrace the wrinkles” no matter how many times I iron linen fabric with the hottest setting on my iron before I wash it. I don’t care what people say you looked wrinkled 24/7/365 so essentially all the time!!! So some days I’m not so in love with it but alas, I used linen. Now that I look at it, I’m glad I stucked with it. It is a GREAT transitional from summer to fall garment.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Well, pull up a chair, because there are MANY adjustments that I made to this pattern to give me a little bit more wearing ease but also adjust the armholes to something I would be happy to wear again and again.

• This pattern is drafted for a C cup, so I knew that I was going to have to make a SBA on this, but I actually read the pattern instructions which say to double check and make a toile before you embark on a SBA. Sure enough after making my first toile, I didn’t have to do one which was shocking because for True Bias dresses and tops I always (and I mean always) even on knit tops I have to! I also didn’t have to move the bust dart. It is a French angeled dart so I think it’s a really nice feature of this pattern.

• I originally told you I was just at the end of the size 18 size range so I knew I would have to add some ease to the bodice to make sure it fit and it wasn’t tight so I added 1/2” to the width of the bodice… but I did this at the center front (vs. the side seams) so I could push the straps towards the sides, ensuring my bra was always covered. So adding it to the front dress pattern piece means I also have to add it to the front facing.

Front dress pattern piece - Can you see the 1/2” added to the center front (right by the “center front fold”)

Look at how that bust dart hits right on the bust and how the armhole fits just right.

• Since I added the 1/2” to the front dress piece it meant my straps were going to be angeled in the back so I had to make sure I added 1/2” to the back pattern pieces for the dress AND also the facings.

Notice the location of the added 1/2” as I added it to the front in the center, I had to make sure I added it in the back somewhere close to the center.

• I also added length to the pattern. I probably didn’t need it, but I'm glad I did as I can always take it off if I need to do so. That meant I also had to add length to the buttonhole placket pattern piece. There are shorten and lengthen lines in a few spots on the pattern, always so helpful.

I added 3” to the length of the pattern as I wanted to make sure the hem hit right at my knees or just below.

• I didn’t care for the square armholes, hello meaty armpits. If you know, you know. It is not flattering and I wanted to make sure that if I’m making a dress, that I wear it. So I had to add curvature to the dress AND the facings. I had just worked on McCalls M8402 and I liked the way the armhole is drafted on this pattern, which lo and behold also had French bust darts. So I took that portion of the pattern and used it to redraft those square armholes.

I used M8402’s front and back facings to give the dress a rounded armhole which fit me a tad better.

Front Facing - See the curved area around the armholes!!! I also added 1/2” to the center front.

• I took off almost 3/4” off the length of the straps as I wanted to make sure that my bra was covered at all times, front and back.

• I said good bye to those pockets. I didn’t need or want bulk and I rarely use pockets in dresses plus this would have been flapping out there… so “poof” gone!

• Some thing to note, which is NOT an adjustment. Whatever buttons you use for this pattern make sure they are flat because they are in the back and you will be sitting on these at some point so you want to avoid any discomfort while seated.

Make sure you use flat buttons for this dress. After all, you will be seating from time to time.

Would you sew it again? I’ll be honest, after making several toiles and making this dress, I’m going to take a break from this pattern for a little bit. I’m glad I did, don’t get me wrong, the pattern is fitted to me and next time I make it, it will be a really quick sew. I can see myself hacking it and moving the button hole placket to the front but like I said, I’m going to take a little break from it and perhaps find a pretty rayon twill, or Liberty print next time I make it OR perhaps something with a really large print.

Would you recommend it to others? It is a lovely design, it is well drafted, it is VERY hackable (you can make a top, you can make a dress, you can hack it with the button holes I the front, you can do a waist length top and add in a peplum with buttons) in that sense, it is a great pattern, but beware if you don’t like to make a lot of adjustments because you are crazy picky about fit like me!

What I made this summer…

Click on the image above for a You Tube video with all my summer makes

So about a week ago someone had posted in my comments something along the lines of “you need to post your makes more often, I’m the same size as you and I would like to know how it looks”. This person was right, I don’t really post a lot mostly because I don’t like getting my picture taken, not because of my size BUT because every time I have to take a picture I have to go get glammed up… and honestly some days I don’t really want to brush my hair or put on more makeup that I need to but I realized that I too would like to see more people in my size range aka “mid size range”, the size were we don’t need the bigger range pattern but we are right at the edge of the largest size in the small range and I gotta say, being in this size range can be a struggle at times. But I’m not going to get into that, we sew because we want clothes that fit. So without further ado

Here is what I made this summer!

• I made what felt like a plethora of Zoey Tanks from True Bias. I made a total of five. Mostly because I was trying to nail the fit on this and perhaps I have to do a pattern review on this so you can see how it all went, and also show you my pattern pieces so you see where I adjusted things and why. But here is my last version, made out of remnants (go remnants stash!!!) along with some black rib knit.

• Dani Shorts and Lander Pants - Most of the pictures you will see its these pants, and I’m not going to give you the whole view because these pants will be retired after this summer and perhaps moved on into the gardening clothing pile. They are done! What started as a really nice dark gray are washed out, but know I got GREAT use out of these shorts.

I also went shirt camping!!!!

1. Donny Shirt - Friday Pattern Company - I made one of these tops and I have to say it I didn’t wear it a lot but it was a really comfortable top for summer. It looks dressy in a casual kind of way. I wrote a pattern review for it on Sewing Pattern Review.

The Donny Shirt and I can’t pass up the fun inside of this shirt.

• B6924 from Palmer Pletsch - I did a sew along for this, it is a great camp shirt and I actually wear this A LOT!!!! And I’m on the hunt for some more fabric because I can easily make two more. Perhaps I may migrate this towards fall into winter with a lightweight flannel. I made two of these! I posted a really cheeky review on Sewing Pattern Review with a few more pictures of it.

B6924 - Palmer Pletsch Camp Shirt

I made t-shirts too. I told you on my 5 Essentials video that I love a good white t-shirt… yes I do!

• I made V8536 (OOP t-shirt pattern) with a great cotton jersey knit from Robert Kaufmann that keeps getting softer with every wash. I made view D and view C… and I wear them a lot! They are on heavy rotation this summer. The thing I love about them, they are good for fall and winter under a jacket or under a cardigan.

Vogue 8536

Vogue V8536 View C (Left) and View D (Right)

I made some more t-shirts but the Ringer type.

• I made the Tilly and the buttons Tabitha T-shirt from her book Make it Simple. It took forever to find this lavender rib knit but I did (thank you Minerva!!)

• Rio Ringer from True Bias - I wanted to test out some more ringer t-shirts and I do have to say they have their uses but I don’t quite knot if I love them. I would have to say I picked the wrong knit for this. It’s from Joann’s but it was a very stiff knit… nonetheless it got the job done.

Tabitha T Shirt from Tilly and the Buttons (Left) and Rio Ringer T-Shirt from True Bias (Right)

I made some skirts…. two actually!

• I used the Mave Skirt from True Bias - I absolutely love them. I kept the pockets for one and for the second one I ditched the pockets altogether, nice to have but they create bulk around the hips and I don’t need any more of that. Super comfortable and great to wear for summer.

I made some pretty tops too with the same fabric from Liberty!

• S9469 - I did a sew along for this pattern and it’s one of my favorites. LOVE IT! Made one for my Mom too (didn’t take pictures of this one!)

S9469 Pattern

• Selwyn Top from Cashmerette - It was my first time making a Cashmerette pattern and I was really happy with the drafting on it.

Selywn Top from Cashmerette - Yes I used the exact same fabric…. it was some clever cutting.

It was Liberty Fabric I couldn’t let anything go to waste.

I made some dresses! Oh yes I did

• Butterick B6208 - I Loved this pattern and I actually wear it quite often. My fabric choice was iffy since it was so sheer and I didn’t realize it until I tried it on and then I had to line it and that was not fun but in the end it was worth it.

Those pin tucks are everything and do you see the hidden darts on the shoulders? That’s what I call clever drafting

• McCalls M8402 - This is a great pattern if you are looking for an easy pattern BUT makers beware, you throw this over your head so its somewhat loose. If you want to make it tighter you will have to either add an invisible zipper which you can do, or you can add on ties on the side for a quick tighten it up a little more.

McCalls 8402

• Aster Dress from True Bias - I also worked on the Aster Dress from True Bias. It took me three toiles to fit mostly because I didn’t care for the square details around the arms, also making sure I didn’t need a SBA as I usually do with their dress patterns. I will have to do a full blown video on this so I can show you ALLLL the changes I made to this pattern.

Aster Dress from True Bias

I also did pattern testing!

• I tested the Kia Dress and Camisole from Sew Love Patterns

• I tested the Titatilling Dress and Top from Grace Steel Patterns

• I tested the Riviera Trousers from NH Patterns

Kia Camisole from Sew Love Patterns

Titling Top from Grace Steel

Riviera trousers from NH Patterns (Not yet released)

and of course I can’t let summer pass me by without showing you my white denim jacket. Because friends fall is coming! At lest by me it is.

• Simplicity S8845 from Mimi G.

Here I am thinking I’m a slacker but looks like I made quite a bit of garments this past summer and I can proudly say I’m wearing every single one of them more than three times and they have all served me well.

Ten Apparel Patterns that you can make with 1.5 yards of fabric

Click on the image above for a video

I don’t know about you but lately you can just call me the remnants queen. I have been looking for sales, deals and just overall projects (mostly apparel) that I can make with 1 to 1.5 yards of fabric, for you Imperial measuring friends that is 1.37 meters). Joann’s has some great remnants bin but it’s like going to the thrift store… it’s a hit or a miss. Another great place for remnants which I have to say they are a LOT more generous but they have some great things is Style Maker Fabrics. So I check their “Selvage Yard Tab” all the time. I do find some pretty fabrics there. Another great place is Gather Here

But today’s video is about ten apparel patterns that you can make with 1.5 yards of fabric. I’m going to stick with size 20 and 60” wide piece of fabric. So if you are size 20 or below… you are in luck.

New Look 6703 - Great skirt pattern you can make with bottom weight fabric such as denim, stretch twill or even canvas. You can make view A or you can make view B. I love view A because fall is coming and you can make this in a heavier fall fabric with a pair of boots and a big sweater.

Lander Shorts or Dani Shorts from True Bias - I lived in my Dani Shorts (both views) and my Lander Shorts this past summer. They were in heavy rotation. I cut a size 16 but when you look at the amount of ease it’s really a size 20 in my world. I have made both pairs of shorts with 1 yard of fabric but we are going to stick with what the pattern says. You can make either of these with 1.5 yards of fabric. I recommend stretch twill, gabardine or even linen.

Kaia Camisole from Sew Love Patterns - It is technically called the Kaia Dress and Camisole. I JUST tested this pattern and if you follow me on Instagram this pattern was just released and it is free. BUT it’s not free forever. It was released last week and you have about two and half more weeks (September 4th, 2023 GMT Time) to go get it free as it was just released. You might need to sign up for their newsletter but with that being said I highly recommend it. I made their largest size in their range and it took 1- 3/8 of yard to make it. It is drafted for a B cup, it does have a bust dart and it fits a little bit closer to the body. It has a few different views as a dress and one you can add elastic for a fitted look. You can play with the grainline… I highly recommend it. Again, Free pattern but not forever! I wrote a review on the pattern here.

Butterick B6175 - I thought this was a great top. It is a semi fitted pullover top with a keyhole closure. It is cropped to your waist but it feels as if I would we are that length with a skirt or a pair of slacks. I love view E with the scalloped edge hem. For view E with the sleeve and scalloped edged you will need 1-1/4’ yards. This would look great in a linen or a crepe de chine.

Vogue V1912 - I’m working on this pattern right now trying to fit it. It is a pair of shorts from Rachel Comey handy shorts which is view B. If you have this pattern this came out on Fall 2022 and I think the top is rather oversized (which means just pick a smaller size) you can also hack it by adding a zipper straight down the middle (eliminate the back zipper) and you will most likely need a facing but its an easy thing to do.

Butterick B6686 - I did a sew along for a Palmer Pletsch shirt a few weeks back. This is a great pattern if you are looking to do a short sleeve shirt but you don’t want to bother with setting in sleeves or dealing with funky facings or what not. View A is a nice simple view with a collar and a front placket. Per the pattern you will need just 1- 3/4 yards of fabric. This would look great in a cotton lawn fabric… got any leftover Liberty fabric? This would look great.

Butterick B6662 - I have made this top, I actually love this top and I should perhaps wear it some more. View A and View B can be made with 1 -3/8 and 1- 1/2 yards respectively. I made mine in a Lyocell gauze fabric but again you can make this in a rayon, crepe or even a cotton blend.

Butterick B6663 - I can’t believe I didn’t know about this pattern or I have passed it. This is a semi fitted top with an invisible zipper. It is cut on the bias (this is perfect because I have some stripped fabric around here that is 3 years old and every day it’s a quandary as to what the heck can I make with it!) this pattern might be the ticket. You can make view A, B and C with 1-3/8 yards of fabric to 1-1/2 yards of fabric, and thats for it to be cut on the bias. If you are a beginner I would say perhaps stay away from this pattern as cutting on the bias is not the easiest but a great one if you are looking to level up your skills.

M7931 - Talking about patterns on the bias… you can also use this pattern for a classic skirt cut on the bias. If you have never worked with cutting your fabric on the bias Mimi G did a sew along for this. But let’s talk about it for our purposes… you can make View A and View B same skirt, two different lengths.

M7386 - Here is a pattern for a dress, yes a knit dress and to the knee which I’m all about these days. View B is a sleeveless knit dress, I get it you may not like showing your arms… wear a cardigan or a jacket! View B you will need 1-3/8” of knit fabric. You will have to cut this on the fold.

I know I said ten… But let’s do one (or two) more because why not! Plus a bonus pattern never hurts.

Vogue V8815 - I was actually looking at this pattern because it is close to a vintage pattern that I’m eyeballing on Etsy (which goes for way too much) but check out view B. It is a fitted top with a raised waist and peplum. You can make both view A and view B. Use something nice for this one like a silk or even a crepe fabric. Maximum yardage you will need 1- 1/4 yards of fabric.

Aster Top from True Bias - Its brand spankin’ new. I think it was released two weeks ago or something like that. But that top is a total scrap buster. Although I’m making size 18 in this pattern you only need 1. 2 yards for the top. So great to essentially test out the pattern and if it goes well then hey you can make the dress! If you are looking for something similar to this pattern check out New Look 6572. I don’t have much luck finding New Look patterns by me but it is on the website. It is labeled as a jumper (goes up to size 20.. and that’s it) but somewhat similar to the True Bias pattern. If you are looking for size inclusive then True Bias pattern is it!

Late Summer Pattern Haul 2023

Click on the picture above for a YouTube video of my latest pattern haul

Today’s pattern haul includes some older patterns that have been released for quite some time, I explain you why I got them, some newer patterns and what lead to the inspiration for getting that pattern along with some vintage patterns and how I’m going to grade them using a sloper.

Kaia Dress and Camisole - Pattern Review

Pattern Description: The Kaia Dress is a beginner friendly pattern that has five options including a midi dress, mini dress and top. The pattern has a center seam at the front and back along with a bust dart. It is sized as a B cup. There are no zippers, buttons, or difficult stitching.

Pattern Sizing: Sew Love Patterns sizing is from A to H which translates to the United Kingdom ( 6 to 20). I cut a size H.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did!

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions are really easy to follow, the pattern has illustrations and has a traditional 5/8” or 1.5 cm seam allowance.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I actually loved the pattern. I’ve tried various camisoles from three different indie pattern designers and no matter what I do, I cannot get them to fit me.

Fabric Used: I used a rayon Dobby fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: So I made a toile for this pattern and based on that I did the following alterations.

• I raised the straps 5/8” front and back.

• I rotated the bust dart 5/8” which makes sense since I took the length from the straps,

• I also increased the length 1”, the pattern does have lengthening and shortening lines.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and Yes. I have been telling everyone to get this pattern. It is FREE for the next month. Get it here. YES you read that correctly. FREE. Only for one month after that you will have to pay for it. So do not delay.

Conclusion: This pattern took me two hours to make. Not only did I make a dress I also made a camisole. It is a great pattern to hack til your hearts content.

Sewing Plans - End of Summer

Can we for a moment acknowledge that we have one month of summer left and I feel like saying “where did it go?”. I was talking on Private Messaging with Brittany J Jones and she had mentioned her kids started school this week, she is I believe located in Atlanta and it dawned on me that August is going to be a busy month because my kids are also starting school in two weeks, and well here we go again.

Lately I have been thinking a lot about…. what I need vs. what I want. The boring things that you sew because you need them vs. the fancy things that you don’t really need, and you got nowhere to wear them but want them. Trying to find a happy medium between what clothes I need vs. what clothes I want. What do I need? I need a pair of white t-shirts. I told you in my five essentials video that. I use them a lot. A LOT! Is it what I want? No, not really… but it is what I need right now amongst many things.

So lets start there:

I got this really nice off white modal knit fabric from Surge Fabric Shop. They were having a sale. I’ll be honest I’m VERY picky when it comes to knits. I try to avoid polyester (although modal is a form of rayon aka semi synthetic fabric) unless I’m specifically looking for it and if you have ever bought knits made with cotton it does NOT go for cheap. Not only does it not go for cheap you have to make sure that it has enough thickness to it. I’ll be using V85336 to make myself at least two of these T-shirts.

Modal Jersey Knit from Surge Fabric Shop

I also JUST downloaded the new Aster Dress from True Bias. I’m been looking for a casual dress that I can wear during this last month of summer with either a pair of casual sneakers or a pair of sandals. I’ve had this olive green linen fabric from Fabric.com (Hence why I have no link for this fabric for you) sitting in the stash for quite some time so I thought it was time to use it and I have JUST enough for this dress. I have to make a SBA because True Bias designs for C-cup but before I cut into my nice fabric… I’ll be making a muslin with this green double gauze that I found on the remnants bin at Joann’s.

Linen from the no-longer-around fabric.com

Bubble Double Gauze

Talking about green linen I also have this brighter olive green linen that will be a pair of dani shorts but not going to go fancy with zippers on this one. Just going to do the elastic waist band on these and call it a day.

Let's keep going down the linen highway…because why not! I saw this dress on Instagram and I quickly snapped a picture. I LOVED the ladder trim on the shoulder area I thought it was just enough that it didn’t look like a lot going on but felt as to something I would wear… Enter this beautiful fabric from Minerva. I feel like I found the exact same color. The ladder trim however is another story. I will have to do a color remover on this and play with dying it to match which is not so fun but I’m excited for the final outcome.

So not everything can be what you need… you do have to have at least one want. Right now I’m trying to make myself ONE fun dress and I was really hoping to do something with some sort of a cutout… and I’m not talking about the dresses with the cutouts on the belly because that business is just not gonna work. Like that new Rachel Comey black dress with the opening on the front and the sides and the back… oh so pretty on the right person but not on me.

So I have a few ideas but don’t quite know which one to pick… here are my choices.

Option A - Butterick B6351 View B - I think I have enough of this rayon fabric (from Hobby Lobby sorry I cannot find a link online) to make this dress. I have to look at the instructions and see if I need a lining (not a fan of linings but sometimes you need them).

Option B - McCalls 7740 This is an OOP pattern that I found at Vogue Fabrics and it seemed fitting for what I want to make. Just enough “cutout” for me. I ordered this fabric from Style Maker Fabrics and I can’t even begin to describe how beautiful is this fabric. It has enough “weight to it” as it’s a rayon twill. I will however have to make a muslin for this, there is a sew along online and … well let’s just say that this person could have used a muslin before cutting into her fabric.

But I’m at a quandary if I want to make either of these dresses or if I start thinking of a dress with a fall vibe. Mostly because my size is changing and I suspect that if I do make either of these two dresses I may not get much wear out of them…. again need vs. want.

Sew Along for B6924 Part 2

Click on the image above for a video to Part 2 of B6924 Sew Along

We finally tackled the cuffs with those fun pleats, the sleeves which were no piece of cake to set in… and of course the curved hem.

A few things to note on Butterick B6924

• Remember the side seams on the shirt are 1” whilst everywhere else is 5/8”. So if the shirt feels a little loose it’s perhaps that you used the wrong seam allowance.

• Take your time easing in the set in sleeves. It took me two tries (YES, two tries) but they did go in. I suggest you do gathering stitches from notch to notch vs. what is shown in the pattern from dot to dot in the cap sleeves.

• Do add in both pockets as the darts are way too long so the pockets “hide” the length of the darts. If you do not add the pockets then make sure you adjust the length of the darts.

Other than that, its a great pattern if you want to add a few more skills to your sewing.

Close up of the cuffs

Sew Along for Butterick B6924 - Camp Shirt

Click on the image above for a link to Part 1 of the Sew Along video.

After last week’s video I decided that we did indeed needed a sew along for Butterick’s B6924 which is a Camp Shirt from Palmer Pletsch. It is a great pattern if you are a confident beginner and looking to learn a few more skills under your belt such as making a collar with a lapel, inserting a yoke using the burrito method and adding cuffs to sleeves.

I used a herringbone 100% cotton fabric from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, IL. I’ve looked all over their website to see if there are any links to the fabric online but there are not. I got it for a steal.

With that being said here are the adjustments I made on the pattern.

1. I lowered the bust dart one inch.

2. Although I’m making view A, I’m using the pocket from view C that doesn’t include a flap because I would never in a million years use it.

3. I also added half an inch to the biceps so I have a little bit more room on my sleeves in case I want to roll them up (which I most likely will do).

B6924 is in progress this is how far I got on this sew along video.

Still not finished with this camp shirt but on Part 2 of this sew along we will work on the sleeves, cuffs, plackets and finish it off on how to tackle that curved hem and making sure that buttonholes are in the right place.

Close up of the pockets on the back so you get an idea how I folded the pocket onto itself.

Pockets are folded 5/8” and then they are folded again inside the seam allowance. Fold the sides first and then the left hand side, and finish on the right hand side. Use your seam gauge so all the seam allowances are the same.

Butterick B6208 - An out of print pattern

Pattern Description: Loose fitting tunic with pin tucks and a plunging neckline with buttons.

Pattern Sizing: Sizing is between 6 to 14 and 14 to 22. Of course I should add at the time I'm posting this review this pattern has been out-of-print for a long time. Long time!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?yes, It sure does.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I thought the instructions were easy and thorough to follow. I feel like this is part of those old Butterick patterns with a beautiful style, a drawing on the cover but also a picture.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I actually saw this pattern on Lori in the reviews and I thought about a year ago to go find the pattern on Etsy. I did and then it sat on my stash of patterns to make for a while along with the fabric and thought perhaps now is the time when it's hot and I got nothing to wear. It was a quick sew if you can call 3 days a quick sew. I would have loved to have made it with long sleeves but alas I didn't have enough fabric.

Fabric Used: I used this blush speckled linen that I bought from Fabric.com (wow its been what one year? Three that they closed? Anyhow I've had it for a while and I wanted to make a button down shirt but this seemed fitting.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:The fabric is rather sheer so I had to line the dress after I did the button down placket. I don't recommend that, had I realized that the fabric was this sheer I would have used it on something else. Lining the dress was I hate to say, not fun and required a lot of hand sewing around the placket to make sure it's fully lined inside.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? yes I sure would sew it again. Would love to find a poplin or perhaps a slightly thicker linen for this. I would also extend the placket a few inches up to give me a little bit more coverage from the plunging neckline and add a few more buttons.

Conclusion: Great pin tuck tunic from Butterick. Easy to sew. It's got some great views with sleeveless, long sleeves or fluttering sleeves. Great for a beginner too! IF you can find the pattern (or like me it's collecting dust) on your stash.... I say give it a go.

Butterick B6208

Comparing Camp Shirt Patterns - The Donny Shirt vs. B6924

I recently purchased both of these patterns The Donny Shirt from Friday Pattern Company (which by the way is having a sale which they rarely do, it ends on July 19th, 2023, 30% off with code “SummerLoving”) and Butterick B6924. The Butterick pattern is designed by the Palmer Pletsch peeps. I wanted to make both shirts and see if I liked one over the other as in a battle of who is the best one, who do I love more. I actually made wearable muslins for both shirts and I have yet to make my final shirt for the Palmer Pletsch but I know what other adjustments I want to make and even pick different sizing which is a completely different hurdle that I’m trying to currently overcome but more on that later.

Has anyone tried either of these patterns? I was really hoping to LOVE one more than the other but I have to say I think they are BOTH great patterns, beautifully drafted and so different one from the other. The best part you can hack both of these patterns to your heart’s content.

THE DONNY SHIRT - The Friday Pattern Company

I thought we would start out with The Donny Shirt from The Friday Pattern Co. The Donny Shirt is a boxy pull on top. It has no darts, it has a patch pocket and a lapel collar. It’s meant to be loose and worn as an every day top. I have to say this was a quick sew. It took me two days to sew this top and I was taking my sweet time with it. The length on it seemed somewhat short on my muslin (and the fabric I used was a really light weight chambray fabric) so I went ahead and added 3” to the length of the pattern. There are lengthen and shorten lines on the pattern which is always a plus. I cut out a size XL - 18 and used a beautiful rayon linen blend from Stonemountain Daughter Fabrics (which I have to say were absolutely wonderful) and made my shirt. I’m really happy with it and it will be perfect for those hot summer days. I also love the colors on this top, Its bright orange and yellows and the print is rather abstract.

The construction on the Donny shirt is actually really easy and there is also a sew along on their YouTube channel. So if you are a beginner this is a great pattern to try as a shirt with a lapel collar. They do the burrito method to attach the inside yoke and they also insert the sleeves with the sides open. SO again, GREAT pattern if you are beginner and want to venture into something that takes a little bit more skill. I can see myself making one in a cream linen viscose with a bias cut skirt.

There are also TWO great hacks on this pattern online. One created by the pattern designer and another hack created by Joana Paige. Both lovely.

The facing on the Donny Shirt is stitched all the way thru the front.

A view inside of the back yoke for the Donny Shirt. It is fully sewed in throughout for a really nice clean inside.

Butterick B6924

Next up I wanted to talk about the Palmer Pletsch pattern B6924. It is described as a fitted shirt with a collar, yoke, back pleats, stitched hem and you can make this as a sleeveless shirt, short sleeve or a long sleeve. There are also three different lengths on this shirt and a curved hem. It also has two different patch pocket styles. A + for giving me all those views. The more views, the happier I get.

As with all Palmer Pletsch patterns there are lines to make adjustments and also a detailed sheet with how to find out if you need to make alterations and how to go about making those alterations. It’s one of those things I love about their patterns. Because let's face it, some times you just don’t know were to make adjustments. Like a swayback adjustment which I may have to do next time as I feel like I have a little bit of extra pooling of fabric on my back… but its also a 100% cotton fabric so I wonder if this would also happen with a linen viscose blend that has more drape.

I really loved this pattern. what a great pattern to have in the stash. Palmer Pletsch had made another camp shirt pattern (B6846) but it was unisex… and I didn’t bother getting that pattern and those patterns usually have so much ease; so I really appreciate that this pattern was made for women. I made view B and I cut a size 20 per the finished garment measurements. Once I had it finished I didn’t care for the boxier feel on this pattern that the shorter sleeves give it. I went ahead took it in 1” on both sides. I think what is throwing me off a little on this pattern are the sleeves and I have to say I really want to make the longer sleeve version so I can roll up my sleeves to 3/4 length and go about life.

This pattern is filled with little tips on how to get a beautifully finished pointy collar. Instructions are superb, very detailed and easy to understand. Just like with the Donny shirt the collar easing in can be a little daunting and you really have to go slow and adjust your fabric to make sure you get NO puckers on your collar inside and out, and if you do no big deal just go back in there, unpick and ease it right back in.

I mentioned before there are three different lengths to this pattern, you can also hack this pattern and make it into a sleeveless shirt dress perfect for summer. If you go to the Palmer Pletsch website you will see a blog post that talks about the pattern and one of the ladies is wearing the pattern as a long shirt dress.

Butterick B6924 by Palmer Pletsch - The facing is folded and sewed to the inside of the yoke.

This is the inside facing for B6924.

Back pleats - You have an option to do gathers or pleats.

In Conclusion, both of these patterns are great. It’s hard to pick just one because they are so well drafted, instructions are superb and I actually see myself wearing both of them. I know I will have to do the longer sleeves on the Butterick pattern on a nice viscose

Cashmerette’s Selwyn Top -Pattern Review

Click on the image above for a video on my review

So I have been saying that I don’t care for pattern memberships but I’m going to take that back! Enter Cashmerette! And I must say, I’m sad I haven’t given them a chance. Perhaps because I always felt that I would have to do a multitude of adjustments. They came out with their Selwyn Top for their June releases and let me tell you… this pattern is VERY well drafted. I have to say I was impressed by the drafting, the instructions and all the things I got for my $9 for downloading JUST that one pattern. If you are a beginner this is a great pattern to have in the stash. You get to learn a few techniques such as creating pleats, attaching bias tape, and also creating buttonholes. If you are not into the buttonholes you can always do snaps but I just think buttonholes are easier. If you feel like you need more hand holding, have no fear because Whitney from TomKat Stitchery made a sew along for you.

Since Cashmerette’s patterns are drafting for a C bust cup I had to do a Small Bust Adjustment. But I wasn’t really daunted by it. There are plenty of tutorials on their website on how to do this for princess seams which this pattern has or you can also use her “Ahead of the Curve” Book that was released in 2021

Not only does it have a plethora of “how to do this and that adjustment” it also has quite a few patterns that you can download once you purchase the book.

ADJUSTMENTS I had to make

• I talked about that Small Bust Adjustment. Yup from C cup to B cup for princess seams. It was an easy one to do.

• Add 3 inches in length to the front bodice, side bodice, back bodice and back side bodice. Easy to do because you have length or shorten lines on the pattern.

• Since I lengthened the bodice I also had to grade and make sure it all matched with the hips.

• I had to raise the armhole as it was a tad lower than I usually prefer. Easy adjustment.

• I also took the side seams in as it was a tad too loose on me by using size 20 but size 18 was a tad snug. So I took about 3/8” in on both side seams. So for four seams thats about 1.5 inches total. Lots of places in this pattern for adjustments! Which is always very nice.

See the big gap right at the lengthen shorten lines? yes I added 3 inches to the length, it had to be added to all the pieces. If you look closely to the piece on the right hand side you will see the small bust adjustment on the princess seams. VERY easy to do!

I did do a toile for this. I wanted to make sure I did before cutting into my really nice Liberty fabric, I also wanted to make sure that all the SBA adjustments I made on the pattern were correct.

I used broadcloth to make a toile for this pattern. Didn’t bother ironing anything! Love the color but not finishing this one.

HACKING IT

I highly recommend this pattern and it is ripe for hacking. How so? Well let me tell you all the ways!

1. You can add plenty of length and create a dress.

2. You can take out the pleats (just fold the pattern piece with the pleats and then cut your fabric) and make it into a simple top.

3. You can change the collar, add a stand collar or perhaps a Peter Pan collar.

4. If you are feeling brave you can also do shirring in lieu of the pleats.

5. You can also shorten the bodice and add in a A- line shirt with buttons all the way down.

Like I said, there are plenty of ways to hack this pattern.

Just a note for everyone, this pattern is available on Cashmerette’s Clubhouse Membership for June it’s just $8 ( a steal as far as I’m concerned) and then its POOF!!!!! It’s gone unless you have an all access Membership so if you like it, then go get it because you have til the end of the month which happens to be next week on Friday, June 30th.

LAST but not least…

You can add sleeves but they ask you to use the Vernon Shirt’s pattern sleeve and if you don’t have it, they give you a discount code so you can get it. You need fabric, they also give you a discount code for the Sewing Studio.

Fabric I used is Tana Lawn Mistral / C from The Fabric Store Down Under

Pattern Haul - Big Four and Indie Patterns

It’s been quite some time since I’ve done a pattern haul. Mostly because I’ve become quite selective on what patterns I’m buying these days. Two things I ask myself when I go pattern shopping is… Will I make this? Will I wear this? Does this fit my lifestyle? Last but not least (one very important one) Will this this look good on me? If the answer to any of those questions is no, I’m passing up on the pattern. And let me tell you this, I’ve been passing up on a plethora of patterns because I know I will not wear it, or it’s not going to look good on me.

So here is what I have purchased to date :

Sauvie Dress from Sew House 7 - I thought this was a great dress for summer in a longer length. I can wear it with a cardigan or by itself. I love the front pockets and the different views. Short or long … and triple bonus its a v neck love it. It does have a full blown facing which I suspect I will change into an all in one facing that is a little bit more tidy but I can’t wait to make this dress.

Kalle Shirt from Closet Core - I know this pattern has been around for quite some time and some days I really want to just wear a button down dress, I have this beautiful fabric I got from Fabric . com when they were around. It was little speckles of fabric I think I got like 2 to 2.5 yards and I will be making the Kalle Shirt into a dress because again… summer. Talking about Closet Core when are they releasing another pattern within their main business vs. the Crew patterns? I would think we would be due for another one soon but I haven’t seen it or will we get another one soon?

Selwyn Top from Cashmerette - I have been somewhat resistant to buy any patterns from the clubs but this one caught my eye. I love pleats in a shirt and you rarely see it anymore, maybe it’s not on trend anymore but I do tend to gravitate towards those styles. I will have to make a SBA because Cashmerette patterns are drafted for C cups and I will also make a toile because I’ve never really made one of her patterns. Instructions look great and this pattern comes with a sew along by Whitney from TomKat Stitchery. I have to say you get some amazing things with Cashmerette. I’m going to make this pattern and keep an eye out for other styles. Please note this pattern is available thru the Club for another month and then that’s it. So if you like it, make sure to download it.

I also did get some Big Four Patterns. I have been on the hunt for patterns that are now out of print and of course, patiently waiting for them to show up on Etsy at reasonable prices. The problem with Etsy is I tend to go down the Etsy rabbit hole.

V1247 - So let me show you how I fell down the Etsy pattern rabbit hole on some of these out of print patterns. First up is V1247, it has been out of print for some time. Probably the model’s blue eye shadow is the dead giveaway. I love the skirt and the top. I will have to make some updates to this pattern and elongate it, but we all know it’s not a hard thing to do.

Curious story does anyone remember a rather famous indie pattern this pattern is based on?

V1357 - This is another one of those purchases from Etsy. I have been on the lookout for this pattern for quite some time but I couldn't find it in my size. The killer was that I always passed it when I saw it on the pattern drawers. It gets some mixed reviews on Sewing Pattern Review. com but I love the skirt and the top.

V1350 - A button down shirt dress, but this has snaps and a concealed placket, I will have to make a toile for the bodice based on the comments from Sewing Pattern Review. I have fabric for this one already and I can’t wait to make it.

V1935 -I couldn’t pass up on this pattern from Julio Cesar for Vogue’s last Spring 2023 collection. It is a beautiful pattern, I will say though I am looking for fabric but not in a hurry as I really have to think about this. The pattern calls for 8 to 9 yards of fabric so I have to really think about this since I have to make sure that whatever I pick for fabric is not really heavy and also 8 to 9 yards of fabric on an amazing sale still can get pricey, so as I said. Not in a hurry to make it but it looks amazing.

V1942 - I thought this was a great pattern when I saw it. Actually I thought that Spring collection had a lot of promising patterns this recent summer collection just wasn’t calling out my name. But I love the grommets on this one. I think it would be fun to do a sew along for this pattern but yet again my quandary, I have to find fabric for it. View B is beautiful.

Picked up a few items from True Bias because they were having a sale for Me Made May… 20% off can’t beat it.

Rio Ringer Shirt from True Bias - I have made a toile out of this pattern already, yes it’s a T-shirt but I told you all last week how much I love t-shirts. No such thing as too many. I will have to update a few things on this pattern when I make my next one. Mostly to extend the shoulder at least 1/2” Other than that, it’s a great pattern. Already have fabric to make two of these!

Calvin Wrap Dress from True Bias - The only thing keeping me back from buying this pattern was the size (I was out of the range… not anymore!) and also the amount of bias tape I have to make but I think it would make a great top so I got the pattern.

Lastly but not least….

Mabel from Tilly and the Buttons - Not quite the latest pattern from Tilly and the Buttons (I didn’t care for the recent release) but I thought this pattern would be a great one to re-fresh my shirring skills and make it into a short sleeve top.

My Five Essentials

It’s been a month since I’ve been here. Life is getting busier now that summer is here. Graduations, summer camps, learning some computer coding (more about this later on), visits from out of town family members. It’s going to be a busy June. Although I am sewing I’m mostly doing it in 30 minute increments at night because the weekends are packed with soccer games, getting ready for the week and spending time with my family.

Theresa from Lost my Thread reached out as she and Knotty Knome were doing a series on the Five Essential patterns that we use all the time. I thought I would give you the indie pattern or the one that I use the MOST first and then I would give you the Big Four (or Indie pattern that is closest to it).

So here we go! Some of these you have heard about numerous times because I use them all the time. ALL THE TIME! I really do, they all fit my busy work from home / juggle the Mom duties thing lifestyle.

1. Essential Top … T- Shirt Pattern - Oh yes, Its plain down to the T-shirt pattern and I will say this I have a good 20 t-shirt patterns and I’m sure many of you do too. To this day I will continue looking for the perfect tee pattern out there and there are a plethora of them out there depending on how you like the ease on your t shirts. But my go to pattern is the Agnes from Tilly and the Buttons. I absolutely LOVE IT and have made the pattern at least 8 to 9 times and counting. Actually I’m wearing it today. I bought the pattern way back when it went up to size 8 and I graded it up two sizes. The gals at Tilly knew that I had purchased the pattern and sent it to me when it was updated which was quite nice of them to do. It’s a quick and easy pattern. But what I love about it is that it has gathers in the center front for a little bit of a sweet heart neckline, or you can keep the neckline without the gathers, OR you can also make these fun sleeves with the gathers for a little bit of puff sleeves but without the crazy drama. It is sized from 6 to 34 and all you need is 1.5 yards or 1.3 meters of knit fabric.

If you are looking for a Big Four pattern for this… I love Simplicity S9273. I use it a lot. It has JUST enough gathers on those sleeves.

2. Essential Bottoms - Hands down my Dani Shorts / Pants from True Bias. Can’t get enough of this pattern. Surprisingly enough I cut a size 16 for these pants and they fit beautifully. Flat front (I can’t stand pleats in pants!), it has an elastic waist band and zipper fly. Instructions are super easy and you get a few different views with a fully elasticated waist band or a zip fly which is the one that I make the most. These are sized from 0 to 32 and they have two different size ranges on their website so make sure you select the correct one. I always make these in a stretch twill. I use Robert Kaufman Jetsetter Twill from Minerva (Harts Fabric carries this fabric too) or Lyocell Twill (from Joann’s).

I like that my bottoms have some sort of give in the fabric. So I usually like Stretch Twill, Lyocell Twill or most commonly known Gabardine. I make zero adjustments to these pants which is surprising. I cut a size 16 and that’s it. They fit.

I would give you a Big four pattern for pants but I have to say I have yet to find a pair of pants in the Big Four that I absolutely love and I have quite a few of those patterns. Anything else out there I have to make adjustments to the crotch curve, I have to adjust the lower back crotch curve, I have to grade the waist and my all time favorite…. knock knee adjustment. SO yeah, I’m sticking with the Dani Shorts. I also love the Lander pants by True Bias (I highly recommend them) but I do have to make a few adjustments to this pattern and sadly they only go up to size 18.

3. Essential One Piece - Looking at my wardrobe and what I wear often as far as dresses go my knit dresses but I do love my McCalls M6696 Pattern. I made this in a lightweight stretch denim fabric and I wear this dress often. It is a great pattern and there is a reason it’s been around for quite some time. You get a few different views, you can make it in quite a few different fabrics (some nicer than others so you can take it from casual to fancy) and lastly you can also have an option to do a burnout shell of the dress with a bias cut piece under it. I love this pattern and just like all the others in this list I highly recommend it. The inside of the pattern looks as beautiful as the outside and triple bonus… they give you different cup sizes. I even made a sew along for it.

As far as an indie pattern to recommend, there are many button down dresses out there from Indie companies. The majority of them have a lot more ease in them but Closet Core has the Kalle Shirt Dress, True Bias has the Shelby Dress,

4. Essential Layering Piece - There are many for this pattern but I have to think again about what I wear and what I make constantly or what patterns do I pull out of my pattern drawer constantly and that has to be my Marlo Sweater from True Bias (wow, I wear a lot of True Bias patterns… and I have to say I have a fair amount of them right next to Closet Core!) I tend to wear a t shirt or tank top under it and put on my Marlo Sweater. I have even made a sweater set with my Marlo and the Zoey Tank from True Bias for a total “Coastal Grandmother’ vibe. It is another beautifully drafted pattern. Sizing is from 0 to 30 and it feels a little oversized so I have to cut size 16 and grade to 18 at the hips. I also take off at least four inches off the longer length on this pattern and I omit the pockets altogether.

If you are looking for a Big Four version then try the S9373. But watch out this pattern is SUPER oversized. But it fits the bill.

5. Essentially Wild Card - I thought about this for a while. I really did… but I don’t wear jumpsuits because although I think they are fun, it’s just not something I wear on a consistent basis, Here is something I wear a lot with a jacket over it, with a pair of Superga sneakers or a pair of sandals, beloved pattern M7967 and I have to say I absolutely love this pattern. I’ve made it a few times. I do adjust it for sizing and give myself a little bit more ease on it as I don’t care for tight knit dresses. But it’s certainly a quick one to make with 2 yards of double knit fabric and I also put on a slight on side so I can move easily in it.

If you are looking for a Indie Wild Card by Zoey Dress from True Bias. I wear this a lot too.

Sneak Peek on McCalls 2023 Spring Patterns

Click on the image above for a YouTube video on the upcoming McCalls Spring 2023 Sewing Patterns.

Butterick and New Look 2023 Sneak Peek

While we wait for the Big Four Sewing Patterns to update their website I thought we would get a sneak peek on those patterns for Butterick and also New Look.

Sewing Plans for April & May 2023 (Copy)

Click on the image above for a Link to my YouTube Video

I don’t know about you but I’m ready to feel the full blown effects of spring. You know nice weather, sunny skies… 60 degrees and no rain! I’m officially done sewing sweaters, jeans, cardigans (ok maybe I’m not ready to stop sewing cardigans) and anything that has the words heavy sweater knit attached to it.

Thankfully there have been some great sales at so many fabric stores and I have been taking full advantage of it. These are my sewing plans for April.

S9469 - Remember this top that I made using Simplicity S9469. I say “made” because I made a sew along and I wore that top to death. Yes, the top died a sudden death back in at the end of Fall. I wore that thing so many times, it shrunk and I kept on wearing it. The straps came off… I loved it. It was perfect on hot weather days and the fabric was super soft. Keep in mind I made TWO of these tops! I killed both of them. So guess what ? I’m making it again. This time I thought I would spend a little more on fabric (but not a lot more!) and get myself a cotton lawn from Liberty Fabrics from The Fabric Store out in New Zealand. Don’t get scared by the shipping charges, they were actually really reasonable. I get the fabric in less than a week and the fabric was on sale… You know that Duckdilly sale everyone goes crazy for? Well this Mistral Pink Cotton Lawn was at an even better price. I’m afraid it’s not on sale anymore. It was 50% off when I purchased it so I couldn’t pass it up. The colors are beautiful and it’s just a good print for spring / summer.

Mave Skirt from True Bias - I got this Fanciful Fawn Viscose printed fabric from Mood Fabrics. I had gotten a swatch for it about a month or three ago and I really liked it. The swatch I received is the color I wanted and the fabric I got it’s a shade off. If you can’t tell trust me on this, it’s a shade off.

It’s my floral design eye making my life difficult yet again but I can’t get mad at Mood because from my old job I know this happens quite often. Here is a pro tip: That’s why you order all bridesmaids dresses at the same time!

Nonetheless I’m going to get over it and make the skirt anyways. I had made another skirt last year and I loved it. It’s super comfortable with the elastic waist band and I wore it quite often this past summer. I want another one. I also have to say, if you haven’t invested in this pattern it’s a good one to have in your stash because you get some many different views for this skirt.

Olivia Dress from Atelier Jupe - Style Maker Fabrics has a remnant sale and I must admit I go checking for things over there ALL the time. Every now and then I score an amazing cut of fabric and just in the right length. Sure enough I was able to get this beautiful fabric from Atlier Jupe. It’s pricey fabric but I have been looking at this Olivia Dress for quite some time and I loved the white / cobalt blue with pops of pink. I love the neckline and the sleeves on it. So let's just say I’m going to recreate this dress as is…same fabric, same pattern.

Zoey Dress True Bias - Yellow Knit fabric from Surge Fabrics and White Rib Knit from Joann’s Fabric. I’m made the Zoey tank numerous times and I love how it pairs well with a cardigan or on its own. I have to make a small bust adjustment on this because I’ve been having to take in the sides of the dress as it’s drafted for a D cup and I’m a B cup. But I got this great fabric from Surge Fabrics. It has a brushed knit side and a waffle like side which is perfect if I wanted to use the same fabric throughout or switch it up. I suspect I will use white rib knit for the neckline. There are different expansion packs for the Zoey neckline so I may try that although I have to say I really like how the V neckline looks on me.

S8845 - I want to make myself a white denim jean jacket to wear during the spring months. I’ve looked a a ton of different jackets but I can see how a jean jacket would be something that I can use year round and of course this spring. Plus I can pair it up with my two Zoey dresses!

Get the High End Designer Look with Vogue Sewing Patterns

Click on the link above to view a YouTube video.

So a new Vogue Collection is out and I thought we should take a look at what designs are inspired on the new sewing pattern Spring collection and also tell you about my favorites.

V1933 - Misses’ Shirt Dress. I will be honest I saw this and I was like…. hmmm what is going on in here with the opening on the sides on this yellow dress/ tunic / shirt. The sleeves have a concealed button closure along the under seam and button cuffs. Looks interesting. I don’t know if I love the maxi length version but I think the mini version is adorable.

This dress Maxi Shirt Dress pattern is actually inspired by Valentino. It is now sold out according to Net-A-Porter. If you bought it from the designer itself… you would have gotten it on sale for the whopping amount of $5,740

V1936 - Another really interesting design. I think it is a lot of fun. I wished I had the body to wear this because this is right up my Puerto Rican alley. V1936 is a blazer dress with waist cut outs. Business in the front and party on the sides and the back! Good for cocktails after work. I’m here for it.

Jacquemus has a beautiful cutout linen-blend mini dress. It retails for $1,195 on Net-a-Porter

V1945 - Knit Top and Leggings in Two lengths. I’m going to say those are some interesting leggings, and I will follow it up with…. depending on the fabric you choose it can go well on you or real bad. However, these leggings are inspired by Mugler from the very famous designer Thierry Mugler. His designs were sexy, and they were out there. He was a true genius and for sure he was not designing for the usual wall flower.

It is nice that they gave us that design as a pattern, those curves are not going to be fun to sew but I think if you have the right fabric you could make yourself some fun leggings.

His original design is the Sheer Spiral Stirrup Leggings has sheer panels and are designed as stirrup leggings. They retail for $700.

V1942 - It is a fitted raised waist, waist facings, side front and back seams with stitched hems. It has grommets or aka eyelets with lacing. Fun skirt and I will add, I will most likely get this pattern. Raised waist skirt…. yes totally love this.

This pattern is inspired by Dolce and Gabbanna Spring 2022 Ready to Wear fashion show. I have not been able to find the skirt for sale to check on retail pricing. It’s always fun to do so. But it you get two different looks in the pattern. The seams on the D&G skirt and are on the center front and the side seams… and it has a lot more grommets than the pattern does.

V1944 - Misses Tops and Skirt. Let’s focus on the Skirt. Which is a bias cut skirt fitted thru the hips and have waist ties. Invisible side zipper closure. I don’t quite know if this caught my attention but it’s a fun design.

It could be inspired by Third Form’s Rip Tide Wrap Around Midi Skirt. This however is made from knit fabric. It has a little bit of an edgy but simple design.

V1940 - A empire waist top with a V-neckline top with ruffles and a bow at the center front. I looked at this and for some reason it reminded me of Carolina Herrera. I get a ton of her ads on Instagram, and sure enough I just had to look back…. way back to find this striped dress from their Resort Cruise 2022 Collection. The dress is now sold out on all websites.

V1943 - Off shoulder double breasted Misses Jacket and Pants. Its beautiful!

Of course there is an inspiration for this suit. It’s by Safiyaa. It is still available on Net-a-Porter. It’s on sale. The blazer retails for $702 and the pants are $623.

V1934 - Great dress, I think both views are beautiful. It took me a long time to find this one and there are some changes from the inspiration.

But take a look at Zimmerman’s Vitali Dress. It’s very similar with the neckline. The shoulder details are different but I actually think I love Zimmerman’s version a little more without the gathers. Mostly because I have wider shoulders so trying to lessen the amount of gathers in this area for me. But all in all a great pattern. The Zimmerman dress retails for $763 so I will be picking up this pattern.

Turning an unpopular opinion into positive feedback

A few weeks ago The Love to Sew Podcast posted a question about the unpopular takes about sewing. This is not going to be one of those and remember I moderate comments on my YouTube so don’t go off on a hot take because it’s not going to be one of those. But it got a little too hot in the post so the ladies from Love to Sew achieved the post and that was that. But then Alexandria Arnold who happens to be a journalist in her full time job posted her “What your Unpopular Sewing Opinions?” post and I have linked and although I think some of them are out right mean and someone of the other unpopular opinions, I’m afraid are true. I appreciate that Alexandria has kept this post up.

What am I talking about… here are some of them.

A lot of these new, so-called indie patterns are aimed at total beginners, everything is so boxy, shapeless, and not flattering for any type of body. If it is a women's pattern, please make an effort and draft something that distantly resembles a woman's silhouette. Fed up with baggy crap.

1)The world does not need another boxy top, baggy elastic waistband pants or another sack dress pattern.
2) patterns you need to buy an extension pack for, like the lining for a jacket… ain’t nobody wants to wear a unlined coat in winter 🥶
3) when the launch pictures are all made out of cutesy jersey prints… I’m pushing 40 and don’t want to dress like a 12 year old.
4) why are all the patterns aimed at beginners?
5) can someone please release a range of chic work wear patterns? A capsule for summer months and winter months? I spend 80% of my life in the office and I can’t show up in party 👯 dresses.
6) there are more party 👯 dress patterns out there than parties 🎊 that I have attended in the last 10 years.

Whatever size you are, nobody owes you anything.

I don't care for pattern subscriptions and if you are a pattern designer hear this... If you keep putting out badly designed patterns every month that are missing pattern pieces, or things are mislabeled its gonna hurt your core customers in the end.

and that last one…. is mine. That is my unpopular sewing opinion. We started a new month and you get to see some of the new releases from these subscriptions and I do understand that these patterns will be simpler in terms of design because it is at a lower price point, the pattern designer is not spending as much time with it double checking it, doing pattern testing. So I get that, but not everyone is as “forgiving” and in the end your core customers, the ones that buy your pattern all the time will start second guessing themselves if they should buy the pattern at your premium price point if you are putting out subpar patterns.

Let’s also be realistic, I don’t care what politicians or the government says that everything is ok. Inflation is taking a huge big bite out of discretionary spending, things are not good. Big tech laid off a bunch of people, Fabric.com closed! Small business is struggling, fabric stores are struggling… when have you all seen so many sales from a fabric store saying 50% off everything in the store, 20% off this entire weekend from everything or so many pattern makers having sales? If you are in the US you know, eggs are at a premium. Let’s face it money is tight! For everyone! So that means we are all a little extra picky on what we spend our “play money”.

Don’t believe me, take a look at blog post “Next Steps for BHL” from Alisalex from By Hand London and how difficult it has been but also how perhaps doing a second size range was very expensive and somewhat unprofitable for her. I commend her for being honest and seeing what is not working for her and her business on top of all the personal setbacks that she has had.

Do I have the answer to all the hot takes…. no. Would I love to give feedback to some of these pattern companies…. yes. However, I don’t know all the ins and outs their business nor do I know what hurdles they have ie. Printing patterns and the cost related to that so I’m not in a position to give feedback when I don’t know all the parts and pieces of a business. BUT for now I’m going to ask you to use the comments below and tell the pattern companies what do you want to see their next pattern to be. We complained enough about not having the finished garment measurements in the back of the pattern envelopes so eventually someone listened to the feedback, took the bull by the horns and changed that!

SO….What garment would you love to see designed and released by the pattern makers. If you could get just ONE pattern designed and released… what would it be! Tell me in the comments below. Choose wisely, you only get one, so make it count.

Get the RTW look with Sewing patterns

Click on the image above for a YouTube video

Our first edition of “Get the RTW look with Sewing Patterns” for this year and as I’m still working on sew along commissions and a dress for my daughter’s school pictures I thought it would be fun to get inspired and look at a few patterns that we can use to recreate the Ready to Wear look without the price!

1. New Look 6694 - I saw this pattern last year and I didn’t even think about it twice perhaps because the one shown on the cover its ok, but someone pointed out that this dress is by Ulla Johnson and it’s her Agathe Dress. It looks beautiful in the website. It is sold out, but luckily we know how to sew my friends!

2. M8178 - I have talked about this pattern numerous times and I found another version, even more expensive than the last time. This one by Rhode and her Ella Zig Zag Belted Minidress, It retails for $435. So not a small sum. Both of these dresses in this style have this braided belt so keep that in mind when you order fabric for it. order a little extra and make yourself this belt to go with it.

3. New Look 6660 OR Isle Jeans from Chalk and Notch - You may have to do some modifications such as adding a waistband to get the similar look but JCrew came out with these Point Sur Sailor Jeans with the slight tapered legs. They retail for almost $200. 3 yards of denim fabric with some notions would be cheaper than that.

4. Murcot Puffer Vest from Cashmerette Club - This is ONLY available this month. I will be honest when I saw the one from the website I felt it was ok, but then I saw Whitney’s from Tom Kat Stitchery and I really liked it. AND then I went to Canada Goose to look at all the things I can’t afford and saw their Collaboration with Reformation and this gorgeous Layla puffer vest. It does have a zipper so as far as I’m concerned even easier to install. Double bonus it’s reversible but the color blocking wouldn’t be hard to do, and if you are wondering that vest goes for $650 at the website…. you can get that pattern and fabric for a lot less.

5. V1823 - JCrew calls their cottage top in poplin fabric one of these best sellers list. It’s on sale too! But you can get the same ready to wear look using Vogue 1823 and change the design of the cuffs (perhaps omit one of the ruffles) and you are ready to go. If you are wondering on the cost. It’s on sale at the moment for $75.

6. M8361 /M8362 - This was just released by McCall’s a few weeks ago and I thought it was interesting and fun if I was back in my 20’s. But then again, I saw this lovely dress on Liberty’s website (because I go looking for fabric over there all the time…. Floral Eve I dream of you every other week), anyways. They had this dress. It’s the Cosette Tie Back Midi Dress which retails for $580 and it was pretty darn close. It has one middle piece vs. smaller ties, which is a pretty small change to make and you can also use the top of KnowMe ME2016 if you want to keep the dress pretty darn similar. I personally love the one from Know Me (it’s just a tad more modest) but it’s all about preference.

7. Joelle Dress from Sew Love Patterns - RIXO Libby Dress , the dress from Liberty is a shorter dress out of viscose crepe and the one from Sew Love patterns has a band along with one tier which you can of course omit. She also shows in the website how you can remove the bow.

8. Ravenna Knit Dress by Tammy Handmade - Cassini Knit Dress from Reformation. I have to say this one is pretty darn spot on. I know a lot of people don’t like to wear knit dresses, I absolutely love them. Just remember to line them with power mesh and don’t even bother with Spanx also give yourself some extra ease in a couple of spots so you aren’t concerned about it being too tight.

9. S9703 - this pattern is brand spankin’ new and was just released. I think I’m going to be making this pattern for my daughter, and while I was looking at that vest I stumbled upon the Bronwen Dress….. which is made out of Viscose aka Rayon and it retails for $278. I actually like Simplicity’s design which is perfect and a little bit more modest for my daughter.

10. Burda 5920 - This is one of Burda’s new patterns, it’s not even on the Simplicity website and I’m afraid it may only be available if you order it online from Burda. But I loved the pattern and did a double take when I saw this Kian Clouds Dress from Stine Goya on Liberty’s Website. It's quite lovely and I think it would be perfect in a fabric with a large print, I must say Liberty did a great job with the accessories and the styling. It retails for $290.

We should be seeing some new patterns from Vogue and Butterick pretty soon. I wonder if we will see a spring collection from New Look… here’s hoping that we do! I hope you got inspired and that you want to make all the things, as always too many ideas and not enough time to make it all.

Sewing books that have helped me with fit and sewing

Click the image above for a You Tube Video

Last year I really made a point of focusing a little more on fitting my clothes, yes bodies change and mine sure did. But with every garment I made I made a point to work on fitting things a little more and believe it or not I read a lot of books about garment fitting or construction of garments ol’ skool style.

1. Palmer Pletsch Guide to Fitting: Sew Great Clothes for Every Body by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto - Great book if you are looking to learn how to tissue fit. This is part of the Sewing for Real People Series. They use a lot of their current tissue fitting patterns and it’s mostly done on Real People that look like you and me. It has different examples and how to tackle so many of these. It can be how to see if you need a full bust adjustment, how to do a bicep adjustment, how to length a pattern. It doesn’t cover fitting pants so that is perhaps another book that you should look at but without a doubt it is a great book to have as a reference.

2. Fit and Sew Custom Jeans: Classic and Creative Sewing Techniques for Modern Patterns by Helen Bartley - This book is recently new…. as in a year or two new. If you are making jeans for the first time or perhaps fitting pants this is a great book to have in your sewing book library. They fit some of the most popular jeans pattern such as the Ash Jeans from Megan Nielsen, the Ginger Jeans from Closet Core Patterns or even the Ames Jeans from Cashmerette. Every time they use a real live model and show you how to tissue fit and what to look for and how to change it. It also talks about ease on stretch jeans vs. non stretch jeans. The history of jeans, what to look for in denim fabric, fabric weights, notions to use and how to tackle a few sewing tricks….. It is a great book.

3. Tailoring by Singer Sewing Books - This book is circa 1988 which I’m sorry but that was the other day as far as I’m concerned and like older books, there are some GOOOOD things in this book. It is great if you are making a suit, blazer or coat. It talks about pad stitching, lapels, interfacing, fancy pockets that are lined. It really teaches you some professional tailoring techniques and I’m going to say if you are making perhaps a coat, were you spent a lot of $$$ in fabric and are really putting in the time it is a great book to reference. It is out of print because it is older but the information in here is amazing.

4. All New Fabric Savvy - How to Choose and Use Fabrics by Sandra Bettina - Sandra Bettina recently retired and she left us with a wealth of sewing patterns and great information. This is one of those books that I reference again and again. It talks about how to care for fabrics, what presser foot to use, what needle to use, what stitch length, what stitch type, and how to finish the seams. How to do said seam finishes. It really is a great book and a Quick Reference Guide. Sandra also has another book called Fast Fit Easy Pattern Pattern Alterations for Every Figure, it’s a great book and it has a really nice chapter on fit AND ease! IT talks about the different types of ease if you want your clothes to be on the looser, or slightly fitted or very fitted and how many inches in the bust, waist and hip you should need depending on the desired fit. It is also out of print but it’s still available out there.

5. Complete Guide to Sewing by Readers Digest - I know this book has been updated quite a few times and the best place to find it is the thiftstore or perhaps a second hand used store. It is a great reference book to have in the stash. I do love the much older versions of this book because it has SO much information and good information that perhaps you may not use every day like…. shirring, smocking or tailoring techniques. It goes into basics and into some other pretty advanced techniques. It also talks about home sewing if you are into that kind of thing.

I also wanted to talk about another book that I had a chance to preview before it was released. Tova Opatrny is lovingly known in the Sewing Community as Professor Pincushion. She has a great YouTube channel were she has a lot of videos helping you tackle sewing techniques. If I need a refresher or perhaps don’t quite know how to tackle something I go check out Professor Pincushion and she has the answers. If you are a beginner at sewing this is a great book.

Professor Pincushion’s Beginner Guide to Sewing: Garment Making for Nervous Newbies by Nova Opatrny - The book is for beginners and breaks things down in the simplest forms that show you how to thread a sewing machine, where to insert a bobbin, how to read a commercial pattern, how to do interfacing, how to find the grainline and the best part of it all it gives you five pdf patterns that you can download with a QR code to get you started on your sewing journey. I thought it was really well written and it even has some of her quirky humor.